Electrical Problem?
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
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Electrical Problem?
When I turn on the headlights in my truck, all of my indicator lights flare off and my engine hiccups then dies out and sometimes i get a back fire. When I go to crank it back up, it is difficult to restart. I stopped by my local auto service today and they cleaned the "IAC" and fixed my battery terminals saying that this should correct the problem. However, driving back home, I found that it did not correct the problem. It's the same, if not worse. What is wrong with my engine?
Thanks,
Boots
'97 f-150
2wd
4.6L
150,000miles
Thanks,
Boots
'97 f-150
2wd
4.6L
150,000miles
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Alright. I headed back to the shop this morning but on my way, the truck was not giving me anymore problems when i turned on the lights. Before, I never had a drive where something didnt go wrong. So I headed back home. When I pulled into the driveway, I placed the truck in park and turned the lights on to make sure it was really fixed. This time, my whole truck died like someone took out the battery. Could this be the starter or alternator or both?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,209
Likes: 1
From: Louisville, Kentucky
If you have a voltmeter, then do some testing.
What is the voltage on the battery when measured from battery post to post? Should be around 13.2 VDC. If the voltage is low, under 12 VDC and it has been on a battery charger, then replace the battery.
If battery voltage is good, then check voltage from the negative post to positive cable clamp. Voltage should not change. If it does, remove cable, clean post and clamp, reassemble and retest. Repeat this test in the reverse too. (Positive post to negative clamp).
Now, if the battery is good and you still have a starting problem. The battery is connected directly to the starter by a heavy battery cable (it is also connected to the starter relay). Test the voltage at the starter to a good vehicle ground. If the voltage is low, then clean up the connections, check the cable for corrosion wicked up under the insulation. Correct any problems found here.
On the other hand if the voltage is good here, then check the smaller wire at the starter for voltage when the ignition switch is in the start position. If there is no voltage there when the switch is on, then go to the starter relay.
The starter relay has three wires. One is from the battery(red), one to the starter(red), and the other(tan/red) is from a fuse (hot in start, F21) in the central junction box via the digital transmission range sensor. If you have no voltage out to the starter then check to insure that the tan/red wire is hot in start. If not, then troubleshoot back to the fuse and the DTR sensor. If this is good and there is no voltage on the red wire to the starter, then replace the starter relay.
Good luck!
What is the voltage on the battery when measured from battery post to post? Should be around 13.2 VDC. If the voltage is low, under 12 VDC and it has been on a battery charger, then replace the battery.
If battery voltage is good, then check voltage from the negative post to positive cable clamp. Voltage should not change. If it does, remove cable, clean post and clamp, reassemble and retest. Repeat this test in the reverse too. (Positive post to negative clamp).
Now, if the battery is good and you still have a starting problem. The battery is connected directly to the starter by a heavy battery cable (it is also connected to the starter relay). Test the voltage at the starter to a good vehicle ground. If the voltage is low, then clean up the connections, check the cable for corrosion wicked up under the insulation. Correct any problems found here.
On the other hand if the voltage is good here, then check the smaller wire at the starter for voltage when the ignition switch is in the start position. If there is no voltage there when the switch is on, then go to the starter relay.
The starter relay has three wires. One is from the battery(red), one to the starter(red), and the other(tan/red) is from a fuse (hot in start, F21) in the central junction box via the digital transmission range sensor. If you have no voltage out to the starter then check to insure that the tan/red wire is hot in start. If not, then troubleshoot back to the fuse and the DTR sensor. If this is good and there is no voltage on the red wire to the starter, then replace the starter relay.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
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I don't have a voltmeter. But I am pretty positive the battery is good. Somehow my truck cranked right up this morning without any problem and drove fine without any problem. However, when I go to turn the headlights on, it still wants to shut off on me. But the truck still has plenty enough electrical power to work all the electronics.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
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Alright, got my truck back from the shop. After two more days of working with it, the mechanic found the problem which was a wire box that need to be fixed. Now I can turn my headlights on without any problems. Sure glad, I didnt have to pay for a new alternator. This last visit was free of charge.