Power brake booster removal/ testing
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2007
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Power brake booster removal/ testing
Was getting a leak at connection of brake master and booster. Removed and picked up a new master and hard lines, but think the leak may have caused or will cause the booster to fail. I did hear a hissing sound when I was initially trying to bleed the new brakes before I removed the master.
Q- is the booster easy to remove without having to remove the dash?
or can you get at it under the dash- any hints
Q- Any way to test the booster with the master removed?
Thanks
Q- is the booster easy to remove without having to remove the dash?
or can you get at it under the dash- any hints
Q- Any way to test the booster with the master removed?
Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 384
Likes: 2
I dont know about testing the booster but as far taking it off, theres 4 bolts and the master cylinder rod to disconnect. The bolts from under the hood, the rod from under the dash. And the brake lines of course. Taking the dash apart isn't all that bad either. I'm sure some one will be along here soon to tell ya about testing it.
Last edited by 78workhorse; Jan 24, 2008 at 10:03 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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When I replaced mine it was fairly easy , like the post before 4 bolts accesible under the dash and firewall and the pin for the booster linkage . My mount was pretty nasty so I took it off and painted it , when I put it back together the pedal was sticking in the down position , no one could figure it out , so 1 day looking at it i noticed a bolt and nut that was to tight to make the pedal not stick , it is on the bracket , just make sure you dont over tighten that bolt cause it will stick and drive you crazy , these trucks are old I would replace it , last another 30 years and brakes work with 1 push instead of pumping them . You shouldn't have to pump power brakes , for testing they told me to replace it being so old , good luck .
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
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Make sure the vacuum supply line to brake booster is not cracked.
This vacuum line to brake power booster do not last very long and need replacing often.
Check the rubber grommet at the one way valve on booster.
If the booster looks original, probably a good time to replace as the rubber diaphram in brake power booster is possible dry and cracked too.
This vacuum line to brake power booster do not last very long and need replacing often.
Check the rubber grommet at the one way valve on booster.
If the booster looks original, probably a good time to replace as the rubber diaphram in brake power booster is possible dry and cracked too.
Last edited by 1975Ford; Jan 24, 2008 at 12:05 PM.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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What exact truck are we discussing here..it makes a difference
Some trucks are a staright thru mount and others are a fulcrum mount.
You need the MC installed for this test.
BB's can be tested at a specialty shop for brakes.
Some trucks are a staright thru mount and others are a fulcrum mount.
You need the MC installed for this test.
BB's can be tested at a specialty shop for brakes.
Last edited by Mil1ion; Jan 24, 2008 at 12:06 PM.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2007
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liquid in booster-yikes
When removing the brake booster I noticed liquid/ either water or brake fluid inside the booster. I know this can come from fluid leaking from master, but it seemed a little watery. Only got unit part way off for now.
Plan on replacing with Bendix unit.
Having small problem removing pin in linkage under hood- due to rust. Got the cotter key out, but pin is stuck. Will check for second cotter and pin at brake lever inside cab.
Plan on replacing with Bendix unit.
Having small problem removing pin in linkage under hood- due to rust. Got the cotter key out, but pin is stuck. Will check for second cotter and pin at brake lever inside cab.
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