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The other day at only 40 deg. my 96 7.3 would not start. Tryed it a couple of times with no luck then I noticed that the glo plug wait to start light did'nt come on anymore. I blew a 30 amp fuse.Changed it and the lite came no again upon trying to start and the second fuse blew .Third fuse instaled,this time disconected pasenger side rear glo plug cable and the lite stayed on like normal and motor started but was running rough ,not all cylenders hitting I guss, so I then plugged the cable back in while it was running and it smothed out great but then shut off a few seconds latter.Blew another 30 amp fuse.I figured it must be a short or a bad gp on that bank.I then plugged the heater in, let it sit over night.The next morning,motor all toasty warm, I put a new 30 amp fuse in,and everything worked fine,motor started right up and running great.Did not blow any fueses.I cycled it several times and no problems.Let it sit for a few hours ,heater unpluged,and still had no problems, started right up.Sounds like "TWILITE ZONE".What do you think took place and do you think I should change the gp's.I only have 145000 on the truck and it's all original in great shape,like new condition.I don't want to get stuck anywhere.I have a E450 turbo charged van with a walk in service body plum full of tools I can't afford to loose to vandels on the side of the road.I live in N.O. Louisiana. Can anybody help me? I am new to this site Thanks
i assume you unplugged the outside valve cover harness which would be why you were running rough (only one six cylinders). probably a burnt up under valve cover wiring harness. i would pull the lids and check all four. they are notorious for going bad. some one correct me if i am wrong, but i am thinking that as the glow plugs go bad and the resistance rises this creates heat in the harness causing them to burn up and results in shorted wires causing the fuse to blow. i have had the harness burn up but never the fuse blowing situation. after having the block heater plugged in, i am thinking that the gp's didn't draw as much current as when it's cold so that's why the fuse didn't blow, but that is just speculation.
Not exactly sure why you are blowing fuses. However, if the GP light is not coming on, the GP relay/solenoid may not be making contact reliably.
Running the block heater is extra important if you are down a few GPs. My old Chevy 6.2L was down to 2 working ones before I had enough and changed them all out. .
The colder weather right now has me wondering about the GPs on my own service van ('97 E350). I'm getting the hard start and big cloud of grey smoke when it finally catches.
Hey guys,Thanks for the info.I am new here and Iam having a hard time trying to figure out how to navigate this web site.I am not a computer geek,just nuts and bolts freak.My truck is a van and I have a lot of things to take off just to pull the covers and look for a problem,looks like a time consuming job that needs tiny monkey hands to get everything loose ,but I have no choice.I think I will replace all the gp's with motorcraft ones, and check the wires under covers.Any tips on what to be causious of? I read horror stories of broken gp stuck in the heads.I don't need that.My lively hood depends on this truck and money is tight.Can't afford to put in a shop.Thanks
I'm pretty sure the Wait To Start light is controlled by the PCM. If the GPR is bad the light will still come on, unless the fuse blows. I agree something is probably going on under one or both valve covers - bad GPs or shorted harness(es). Good luck doing that work on a van. It's tight under there.
If you are blowing #22 fuse under the hood, your fuel heater in the filter housing is shorted. You can unplug it unless you live in the arctic. Not sure if your van is the same under the hood but here's a pict of the plug.
Hey Jim,I will check that out.Sounds good to me.There is so much I dont know about a diesel,,,,,I bet rocket scientist go to diesel school to get qulified to work on the space shuttel.HA! HA!
Thanks and you have a good day!
have a 96 f350 that did the same thing. turns out I had melted glowplug harness on more than one side. got to where it would start and then die about 5 seconds later. the job was easy but it was time consuming however saved a ton of money. id pull the valve covers and look....good luck