Well the bed on my truck has some rust issues, I was going to try patching the rust but there are no patch panels for the bedside toolbox avalable. I looked around for good beds but around hear it is a merical to even find one period.
So I'm thinking buying replacment bedsides is the way to go.
I have no experiance in sheet metal work at all.

My question is what is all involved in replacing theese?
On a scale from 1-10 how hard is it, 10 being the hardest.

Thanks for any input.

 

Bump ..........

 

How bad is the bed side rusted? It's always better to use the smallest patch panel necessary to make the repair. Most patch panels are bigger than you usually need if your lucky and it's a good rule of thumb to cut it down to a size that is just big enough to make the repair. The smaller repair the less chance of panel misalignment and less work to do the repair.
To do this type of repair you will need a way to cut sheet metal to remove the panel being repaired and also the patch panel. I like to use a die-grinder with a 1/16" cut off wheel to do the cutting, but I've also used jig saws or reciprocating saws as well. Then you need a way to attach the patch panel to the existing sheet metal. I like to use a MIG welder or 3M Panel adhesive to do this type of repair. To smooth out and finish the repair, you'll need to use some body filler prime and paint.
How you decide to cut your patch panel to size depends on how you plan to attach it to the existing metal. The best repairs IMO are obtained with Butt joints (both metal edges are butted together), but many people like to use lap-joints, because they are easier. Welded butt joints are better, because the the entire joint is welded and unless you can weld both sides of a lap-joint there's a good chance that water will be able to get behind the repair and rust out from the inside. That being said, though a welded butt joint is probably the hardest to do properly, especially if you don't have a welder. For a lap joint you need to use a flanging tool to flange the existing metal, so that the patch panel will lay flush with the surface after it's attached. I'm betting you don't have a welder, since you have never done any sheet metal work, so I would recommend using the 3M panel adhesive to do this repair and do a flange style repair. If you don't have a flange tool, you can use some sheet metal to create a flange, by gluing the sheet metal to the back side of the repair opening such that you end up with 3/4-1" glue surface. Usually you can get the sheet metal to do this from what is removed from the patch panel and it usually has the profile you need any way. To do the gluing method you'll need a way to hold the panel in place while it dries. I've used all different types clamps and locking pliers as well as pop rivets that I would grind off after the glue was dry. The 3M panel adhesive takes 6 hrs to cure at 70F and it will take longer at lower temperatures and can be spend up by applying heat. I bought the 3M adhesive and special applicator gun at Autobody Tool Mart. The adhesive is ~ $30 and the gun is ~ $70, but IMO it's worth it. I replaced by trucks cab corners using this method and it turned out great. The repair was very strong, we even lifted the cab back onto the frame using the cab corners. Here are some pictures of my cab corner repair:



Here's the adhesive and gun used for the repair:

 

looks good cujo... what did you do to repair the roof rot?

 

I used some sheet metal I had in the shop and I cut small patch panels and welded them in using my MIG welder to fix the window channel rot. I do not have a shrinker-stretcher, so making a complicated patch panel is not an option. The way I approach this type of repair is to cut out all the rot and make individual cardboard templates for each piece of the patch. Then cut the metal using the template as a guide. Then tack in the patch and then make another template for the adjoining patch, etc, etc. Once all the adjoining sections have been tacked in, I finish welding them in completely slowly with many individual tacks, allowing the metal to cool between each series of tacks, so that it does not warp too badly. If you have access from behind, you can use a hammer & dolly to keep the repair straight and true if it does warp. Obviously I did not have access from behind the window channel, so take extra caution during the weld up steps. Once the welding is done you need to grind the welds smooth with something, I prefer a 60grit flap wheel on 4-1/2" angle grinder or a die-grinder with a 1/16" cut-off wheel. If you notice any holes that did not get welded, have at it again til the repair is complete. Then sit down and have a beer and admire your repair :-)

 

dude I think you save my life with the info ,ihad been looking for a whole bed side replacement ,now i'll just get a good patch from dennis c and just glue that bad boy on

 

Good luck and I hope it works for you! I had good luck with it on my project.

cujo8