Fuel level sensor replacement / lessons Learned
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: King George, Virginia
Fuel level sensor replacement / lessons Learned
Original symptom: fuel gauge indicates ¼ to ½ a tank above actual level in tank. This would vary; sometimes the indicator would read correct and at the next start up, would read well above where it was before.
<O
I posted in the past about how I took the resister apart and cleaned the contact surface. This actually worked for 6 months or so. Well it started acting up once again with the same symptoms. I figured I’d just buy the new sending unit. The diesel sending unit is $200 and the Gas sending unit is $25. Difference being the diesel unit comes with everything (the complete contraption inside of the tank). I’ve already done the in-tank mod so I didn’t want all that.
<O
Good news is that both the gas and diesel units use the same 15 to 165 ohms plastic variable resister. I bought the gas 29 gallon mid tank version. Gently pried off the plastic variable resister from the gas units metal mounting bracket. Once it is off, same as the other one. Just snap the new one on and plug up the one wire. Our mounting plate is tack welding to the pipes, gas unit bolts on. New one from powerstrokeshop.com even came with the new o-ring for the top.
<O
I just finished the installation and the gauge is working perfectly. Just figured I’d share the experience.
<O
Pictures are of the old and new variable resister. You can tell that the slide on the old one has just about worn through the contact points.
<O
I posted in the past about how I took the resister apart and cleaned the contact surface. This actually worked for 6 months or so. Well it started acting up once again with the same symptoms. I figured I’d just buy the new sending unit. The diesel sending unit is $200 and the Gas sending unit is $25. Difference being the diesel unit comes with everything (the complete contraption inside of the tank). I’ve already done the in-tank mod so I didn’t want all that. <O
Good news is that both the gas and diesel units use the same 15 to 165 ohms plastic variable resister. I bought the gas 29 gallon mid tank version. Gently pried off the plastic variable resister from the gas units metal mounting bracket. Once it is off, same as the other one. Just snap the new one on and plug up the one wire. Our mounting plate is tack welding to the pipes, gas unit bolts on. New one from powerstrokeshop.com even came with the new o-ring for the top.
<O
I just finished the installation and the gauge is working perfectly. Just figured I’d share the experience.
<O
Pictures are of the old and new variable resister. You can tell that the slide on the old one has just about worn through the contact points.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 578
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From: Cincy OH
This is great info. I have the same issues you describe... the fuel guage level will vary nearly 1/2 tank at times. Have had issues where I nearly ran out of fuel (started sucking air) because the tank read 1/4 full but was obviously empty. I assumed I would have to buy a new sending unit, but am dreading dropping the tank. Not sure what your talking about with the variable resistor, but I will need to investigate...
So I simply have to buy the sending unit for a gas motor? Do you have a specific part number? Thanks.
So I simply have to buy the sending unit for a gas motor? Do you have a specific part number? Thanks.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: King George, Virginia
I've had my tank down 3 times now (in-tank mod, resister cleaning, resister replacement).
The part number for the unit I bought is F81Z*9A299*FA
Search powerstrokeshop.com for fuel sending unit.
Try this
http://catalog.powerstrokeshop.com/p...&siteid=214083
The plastic variable resister is attached to the float. Full reads more, empty less. Resister is from 160 to 15 ohms. It just snaps onto a small metal plate attached to our supply and return metal tubes. The gas versions little metal plate attaches with fasteners where ours is tack welded. That is why we can't just buy the sending unit. Good thing is the plastic sending unit that sends the signal just snaps on either one. Hope this helps. Mark
The part number for the unit I bought is F81Z*9A299*FA
Search powerstrokeshop.com for fuel sending unit.
Try this
http://catalog.powerstrokeshop.com/p...&siteid=214083
The plastic variable resister is attached to the float. Full reads more, empty less. Resister is from 160 to 15 ohms. It just snaps onto a small metal plate attached to our supply and return metal tubes. The gas versions little metal plate attaches with fasteners where ours is tack welded. That is why we can't just buy the sending unit. Good thing is the plastic sending unit that sends the signal just snaps on either one. Hope this helps. Mark
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: King George, Virginia
Here is a picture of the metal plate I took off the gas version. Ours is like this but permanently attached to the tubes.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Most all ford fuel level senders after 87 can work. They're all basically the same, the arm may be different or how it mounts, but the variable resistor itself is the same.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,374
Likes: 46
From: Palm Bay, Florida
YEARS ago on my L99 the pick up foot broke and fell off causing the famous run out of fuel at 1/4 tank situation.
I never fixed in until 6 months ago when I had a mechanic lower the tank and do the hutch & harpoon mods as well as remove the in tank screens and the screen in the (new) pick up foot.
He also installed the Driven Diesel pre-pump (spin-on) filter assembly.
(Meanwhile at the same time the original pick up foot fell off my fuel gage stopped working correctly-It would stay pegged on full for nearly 400 miles then start down.....it WOULD then run out at 1/4 tank)
I cannot understand what would make the gage act this way just because the pick up foot fell off.
Anyway, "my" mechanic found the float rod all corroded and rusted-(He felt from running Bio-Diesel) sent me a picture and when I asked what we needed to do to fix this he said it was too late and that he'd already put the tank back in!!! (Which was STUPID!!)
Just yesterday I ordered the GAS gage sender assembly for MY truck's 38 gallon tank and will either find another mechanic to install it or do it myself.
I never fixed in until 6 months ago when I had a mechanic lower the tank and do the hutch & harpoon mods as well as remove the in tank screens and the screen in the (new) pick up foot.
He also installed the Driven Diesel pre-pump (spin-on) filter assembly.
(Meanwhile at the same time the original pick up foot fell off my fuel gage stopped working correctly-It would stay pegged on full for nearly 400 miles then start down.....it WOULD then run out at 1/4 tank)
I cannot understand what would make the gage act this way just because the pick up foot fell off.
Anyway, "my" mechanic found the float rod all corroded and rusted-(He felt from running Bio-Diesel) sent me a picture and when I asked what we needed to do to fix this he said it was too late and that he'd already put the tank back in!!! (Which was STUPID!!)
Just yesterday I ordered the GAS gage sender assembly for MY truck's 38 gallon tank and will either find another mechanic to install it or do it myself.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,374
Likes: 46
From: Palm Bay, Florida
Yes it is! I got the "last" one that Tasca Ford had shipped for $105.
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