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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Fordamatic trans problem

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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 09:59 PM
  #1  
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Fordamatic trans problem

56 has an automatic Fordamatic transmission with a automatic columb shifter.
On the side of the trans is a linkage that is connected to the columb shift.
Around this linkage that conects to the shaft that goes into the side of the tranny there is a constant fluid leak.
Does anyone know if the seal is on the outside or do you have to pull the pain to get at the seal?
This tranny has an oil cooler line that goes to the radiator so not sure what year it is.
Any giudance is much appreciated very excited to work on this but the tranny fluid leak is a bummer.

Mick
 
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 11:52 PM
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Bump to the top...
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 01:42 AM
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I'd like to hear a good answer too! I also have a fordomatic in my 54 and it leaked as well. However, I did pull the tranny and rebuilt the entire thing - it was in need. And yes, the leak did stop, but I'd like to know for future reference.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 07:02 AM
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Hi Brian,
I wish some experience would chim in here on this one...
I wanted to know if you have to drop the pan to get at the linkage seal and how the linkage is removed. I have a friend who also has the exact same leak!
So hope any light or suggestions would be made on this for this will be my first priority to fix.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 07:09 AM
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there should be an o ring.you will have to drop your pan.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 07:49 AM
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okay..
any tricks as to how the linkage shaft slides out?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 08:33 AM
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I don't know if there is one available for the Fordomatic or not but there are special shift shaft seal removal tools available for GM and Chrysler transmissions that allow you to remove the seal and install a new one without having to drop the pan.

What does the shift linkage look like at the trans? will it come off the shaft just leaving a bare shaft? if so then you could probably drive a screw into the shaft seal and pull it that way and be able to install the new one.

Good luck with it
Bobby
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 09:39 AM
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I heard others with this problem. I think it might have been over on the HAMB board. Someone mentioned theres two seals that fit this application and most kits have the wrong one. I dont have the part number but it was either this board or the hamb?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 12:54 PM
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This is a pain in rear to repair. You will have to drop the pan and and take the manual lever loose from inside. A friend of mine has a trans. shop and he is an old Ford guy and I asked him about this. He says the linkage inside is tricky and even he doesn't like doing them.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 06:45 PM
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Do you need a special tool to take the linkage shaft out from the inside?
Has anyone got a manual that they can check to see?
I agree this is a common pain in the *** problem..so someone has the finer detail on how to replace the seal.
The tranny seems to shift fine and I wish I could do this myself on a budget.
All inputs and suggestions are welcome..please chim in!

Thanks!!
 
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 12:29 PM
  #11  
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Okay, got a few more details. The '56 was air cooled, in '58 they went to a cooler. The '56 has a ball and spring on the rooster comb(it's that part on the shift linkage inside the trans. that sorta looks like a rooster's comb), this setup is a real pain to put back together while in the truck. The '58 has a bullet and spring that is a little easier. You may have to remove or at least move over the valve body to get the manuel lever out. The valve has a couple of lines to it that you have to careful with and also you have be careful not to knock off the second gear band strut. There is a seal on the shaft of the manuel lever and a o-ring on the kick-down shaft lever. No special tools are required. This is not a job for the faint of heart.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 03:16 PM
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I have two Fordomatics. Both are 55 air-cooled models. Both have leaked over the years att the shift shaft. Both needed seals replaced from the inside. The latest one was last year. It cost me about $200 at the local trany shop. I suggest letting a pro do it. Good luck, Jag
 
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