Increasing torque
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Increasing torque
I just purchased a 1985 F350, 2 wheel drive, 460 engine, and 4 speed trans. The truck is going to be used primarily for towing and hauling.
I know I am going to need to do some exhaust work because of a leak somewhere up close to the engine. Additionally, I suspect the carburetor is going to need some attention. Increasing the low end torque would be a real benefit. So, assuming I need to replace exhaust components and the carb, does it make since to go with headers and an Eldebrock carb and manifold setup. If so, does anyone have first hand experience on specifics of header brands and which carb/manifold set up that will give me the most low end grunt?
TIA,
Mark
I know I am going to need to do some exhaust work because of a leak somewhere up close to the engine. Additionally, I suspect the carburetor is going to need some attention. Increasing the low end torque would be a real benefit. So, assuming I need to replace exhaust components and the carb, does it make since to go with headers and an Eldebrock carb and manifold setup. If so, does anyone have first hand experience on specifics of header brands and which carb/manifold set up that will give me the most low end grunt?
TIA,
Mark
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From: Crooked River Ranch, OR
Increasing torque
Your bigest bang for the buck would be to change your rear gear set to 4.10's that would make the bigest differance for towing.
Next, Fords are notorious for poor exhaust qualities, headers and dual exhaust will set you back about $500. but the engine will "breathe".
After you've done the above THEN spend money for your intake and carb, you'll actually see the least improvement here unless your old carb is already garbage...stick with a vacuum operated secondary for torque. Deen
Next, Fords are notorious for poor exhaust qualities, headers and dual exhaust will set you back about $500. but the engine will "breathe".
After you've done the above THEN spend money for your intake and carb, you'll actually see the least improvement here unless your old carb is already garbage...stick with a vacuum operated secondary for torque. Deen
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Increasing torque
Deen,
Thanks for your comments.
The truck already has the 4.10 gear set. So, that is already taken care of.
My plan would be just as you lay it out. Since the exhasut has leaks and needs to be fixed immediately I was thinking I should go ahead with headers. Which headers do you have and are you satisfied with them?
The carb may need to be repaleced if I can't get it tuned properly. From what I have seen, the Eldebrock 600 cfm seems to be the carb of choice for this motor. But, all of the intake manifolds I have reviewed are more for racing applications and move the power band way up the RPM range. I want just the opposite; the power down low in the power band.
Mark
Thanks for your comments.
The truck already has the 4.10 gear set. So, that is already taken care of.
My plan would be just as you lay it out. Since the exhasut has leaks and needs to be fixed immediately I was thinking I should go ahead with headers. Which headers do you have and are you satisfied with them?
The carb may need to be repaleced if I can't get it tuned properly. From what I have seen, the Eldebrock 600 cfm seems to be the carb of choice for this motor. But, all of the intake manifolds I have reviewed are more for racing applications and move the power band way up the RPM range. I want just the opposite; the power down low in the power band.
Mark
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From: Crooked River Ranch, OR
Increasing torque
I've been running Headman headers...about the cheapest set made for the 460. I believe they are around $120 mail order from Jegs or Summit. I've had no problem with the headers for the past two years other than having to re-tighten the header bolts a couple times a year. I do run copper header gaskets though.
Run any brand carb you are comfortable with as far as tuning is concerned, I prefer Holleys myself.
Offy used to make a manifold that had dual ports, I think it was called the "Port-O-Sonic". It was great for torque. A lot of guys on this board seem to prefer the Weiand "Stealth"...you might check those two out. Expect to pay around $175 or so if you buy through mail-order.
Run any brand carb you are comfortable with as far as tuning is concerned, I prefer Holleys myself.
Offy used to make a manifold that had dual ports, I think it was called the "Port-O-Sonic". It was great for torque. A lot of guys on this board seem to prefer the Weiand "Stealth"...you might check those two out. Expect to pay around $175 or so if you buy through mail-order.
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: sunny san diego
Increasing torque
I have a 1985 F250 w/460, here's what I did. Replaced timing chain with double roller set 4 degrees cam timing advanced. Had a dynoshop re-curve distributor mech and vacuum advance.Replaced 2 stage power valve in holly with a #6 power valve. Installed dual exhaust with 45inch long by 2 1/4 i.d. glasspacks.Tremendous increase in low rpm torque, milage increase from 10 to 13 mpg, runs smoother and cooler.
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From: Crooked River Ranch, OR
Increasing torque
I live in an area where there are no smog checks...somehow the air pump was mis-placed and ended up in the dump.
You might want to re-post and see if any one has found headers that allow you to keep the air-pump.
You might want to re-post and see if any one has found headers that allow you to keep the air-pump.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 467
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From: On the farm near Loveland
Increasing torque
The mid to late 90s California emissions EFI 460s had no air injection or air pump. There is a dummy pulley bolted to a bracket on the front of the engine instead so the belt length still comes out the same.
Maybe a junkyard could get on the wire with one on the west coast and locate you the pulley? Maybe an on-line used or new parts supplier? Should be a piece of cake.
Maybe a junkyard could get on the wire with one on the west coast and locate you the pulley? Maybe an on-line used or new parts supplier? Should be a piece of cake.
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Increasing torque
I have a 1985 F250 460, 4 spd. 3.55 gears. Improvements are: straight up timing with double roller chain (noticable), MSD 6A box with Blaster coil (more noticable), Thorley tri-Y headers (very noticable). Thorley makes headers which take the air injection if needed. I plumbed mine into the stock passenger side exhaust which also acts as a crossover pipe to balance the exhaust. These mods made a day and night difference. Before I had to drive the rig like it had a small block when I was towing.
1985 F250 4x4 460 4spd Tow rig
1963 F100 292 4spd daily driver
1985 F250 4x4 460 4spd Tow rig
1963 F100 292 4spd daily driver
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Increasing torque
This is good information. I really appreciate everyone’s input on this.
Based on age of the truck and the weight class, this truck will not be subject to local emission inspection so I have no trouble not replacing what I believe to be a “non-functioning” air pump. But, I know with other emission equipment, such as the EGR valve, it can not simply be disconnected. To do so will cause other problems. Will a “non-functioning” air pump cause other problems?
LanceCo, did you keep the stock cam when you advanced the cam timing? Did you use an adjustable cam gear?
Mark
Based on age of the truck and the weight class, this truck will not be subject to local emission inspection so I have no trouble not replacing what I believe to be a “non-functioning” air pump. But, I know with other emission equipment, such as the EGR valve, it can not simply be disconnected. To do so will cause other problems. Will a “non-functioning” air pump cause other problems?
LanceCo, did you keep the stock cam when you advanced the cam timing? Did you use an adjustable cam gear?
Mark
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Increasing torque
The name brand after market roller chain sets (I used edelbrock) should have 3 or more slots in the crank gear which allows the cam timing change. Straight up or 0 is the pre 1972 setting which you want. I stayed with the stock cam.
As to the emissions stuff it all seemed to be non functional, so it was removed. That includes the EGR (Engine Grunt Robber) as the motor is carbureted. I put a peice of 1/4 inch plate on the flange where the EGR valve itself mounted so the cast iron spacer would still act as a heat riser. I hooked the distributor vacuum advance to the ported outlet on the carb because it felt better that way.
Lance
As to the emissions stuff it all seemed to be non functional, so it was removed. That includes the EGR (Engine Grunt Robber) as the motor is carbureted. I put a peice of 1/4 inch plate on the flange where the EGR valve itself mounted so the cast iron spacer would still act as a heat riser. I hooked the distributor vacuum advance to the ported outlet on the carb because it felt better that way.
Lance
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Increasing torque
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 04-Jun-02 AT 03:43 PM (EST)]Lance,
Thanks for your comments. Did you need to make any other changes when you got rid of the EGR? Everyting I have heard about them is you will get pinging if they are not working properly (which I understood to also mean if removed).
Thanks again,
Mark
Thanks for your comments. Did you need to make any other changes when you got rid of the EGR? Everyting I have heard about them is you will get pinging if they are not working properly (which I understood to also mean if removed).
Thanks again,
Mark
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