Found my shaking/bad running problem...bad engine :(
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Junior User
Joined: May 2007
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From: Ithaca, NY
Report:
I removed the valve covers (3-4 of the bolts rotted down in size to a 7mm, lol) and took a look inside. -nothing unusual and no parts fallen off.
I popped those roller rockers off (they came off easy, pryed up with screwdriver) and both valves SHOULD have snapped fully shut....
Compressed shop air to the 8th cylinder (bad cylinder) results in lots of air noise out of the wide open throttle
-THe valve isnt seating all the way? (intake valve?) why? this galling have something to do with it?
Is there a repair other than removing the cylinder head?
-Brad
I removed the valve covers (3-4 of the bolts rotted down in size to a 7mm, lol) and took a look inside. -nothing unusual and no parts fallen off.
I popped those roller rockers off (they came off easy, pryed up with screwdriver) and both valves SHOULD have snapped fully shut....
Compressed shop air to the 8th cylinder (bad cylinder) results in lots of air noise out of the wide open throttle
-THe valve isnt seating all the way? (intake valve?) why? this galling have something to do with it?
Is there a repair other than removing the cylinder head?
-Brad
New User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 18
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So your saying you put air to it through the spark plug hole? And air/noise came out the throttle body? And this is after you took the rockers off so the valves should be closed? I'm just making sure I understand what your saying you did. If so, then you probably need a valve job. Probably both heads going by your compression test. How does your intake gasket look? A Buddy of mine had a bad intake valve and the pressure blew the gasket out. It could also be a worn or broken valve spring.
Last edited by winsorcoke; Jan 17, 2008 at 07:30 PM.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2007
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From: Ithaca, NY
Yes I took the rockers off so both valves should have been as closed as they could be.
I had the throttle body wide open, no risk of blowing manifold gasket
I guess it doesnt really matter what my intake manifold gasket looks like I guess I'm taking the manifolds off and pulling the heads. WTF I hate ford.
any more thoughts?
Guess I'll rip it apart, inpect the valves... buy a few new ones if they cant be cleaned up in my wire wheel and replace all the valve stems and maybe all the springs? yes no?
Also are ford head bolts stretch type? My listing price is $83 for the set The head set (seals, gaskets) is $120 so thats not bad....
-Brad
I had the throttle body wide open, no risk of blowing manifold gasket
I guess it doesnt really matter what my intake manifold gasket looks like
I guess I'm taking the manifolds off and pulling the heads. WTF I hate ford.any more thoughts?
Guess I'll rip it apart, inpect the valves... buy a few new ones if they cant be cleaned up in my wire wheel and replace all the valve stems and maybe all the springs? yes no?
Also are ford head bolts stretch type? My listing price is $83 for the set
The head set (seals, gaskets) is $120 so thats not bad....-Brad
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Junior User
Joined: May 2007
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From: Ithaca, NY
Yes I found it in my haynes manual, it does specify one time use...
Something my neat little manual doesnt discuss...
Can you remove the heads without lifting the cab? ON a 4.6l?
-I think it will fit... I may need to remove the exhaust mani with it... soooo rusty!
Something my neat little manual doesnt discuss...
Can you remove the heads without lifting the cab? ON a 4.6l?
-I think it will fit... I may need to remove the exhaust mani with it... soooo rusty!
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 642
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From: Olathe, KS
To comment on replacing parts. Budget allowing, replace everything that has the reputation of failure for this motor. Like the springs, they are at thevery least known to be to weak. If you have stuck a valve and gauled. the valve and the guide should be replaced. the guide can stay if you oversize the stem and ream the guide on out. Brushing up the valve and re-using is also not advised if gauled. You can loosen the guides up and get away with it, but is a poor patch up and wil never be as good as the factory build.
Check all your valves very carefully as any might be bent.
Check all your valves very carefully as any might be bent.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 53
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From: Ithaca, NY
So wait a second... listen to this->
Could it be possible that the guide is screwed up? and just replacing the guide and stem seal "fix" the seating issue? You can replace the stem and guide WITHOUT removing the head correct?
-Brad
Could it be possible that the guide is screwed up? and just replacing the guide and stem seal "fix" the seating issue? You can replace the stem and guide WITHOUT removing the head correct?
-Brad
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Olathe, KS
sorry, the head must come off. Yes aircraft have done without pulling the cylinder (head) but much different situation. Changing the guide will require a valve job to realign the valve to the seat. You also don't know the damage incurred here so need to check "all" the valves at this point. Otherwise you could be right back here with one of the other 5.
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