garage floors
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garage floors
I have been thinking about putting linoleum down, the classic black/white checkered. I also do a little bit of welding, cutting, along with working on vehicles would it hold up.
If not what would hold up the best, I am getting tired of just oil stained concrete, give me some ideas, that wouldn't break the bank.
Thanks
If not what would hold up the best, I am getting tired of just oil stained concrete, give me some ideas, that wouldn't break the bank.
Thanks
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 147
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From: New Braunfels, TX
I have an aircraft maintenance shop and we've looked into a lot of options. There was a magazine called aviation consumer that did a review of several different types of floor treatments for aircraft hangars. Small airplanes drip oil all the time, so that was a big concern for them. They came up with several different types of epoxy paints that worked really well and held up. But the solution I really liked was a company that makes these interlocking 12"x12" plastic/rubber tiles. They have grip built into them, can be nailed to the concrete, and come in different colors so you can mark wheel lines, or boundaries. Some of the floors they had pictures of were really sharp. The problem with the tiles is they cost about $4/sq ft. But you can take them up and take them with you if you move, or build a bigger garage/hangar. PM me if you want info on any of their reviews.
Will
Will
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Cincinnati
For a garage floor, I really love the cheap crappy 12x12 tiles at the home depot. They are available in several colors and when one gets worn out, you pop it up and put a new one down. They are about a buck and well worth it.
FWIW I have yet to find any floor covering that can handle the pressure of a fully loaded jack. These tiles will wear out, but they are cheap and easy to replace.
FWIW I have yet to find any floor covering that can handle the pressure of a fully loaded jack. These tiles will wear out, but they are cheap and easy to replace.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,988
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From: Travelers Rest SC
I worked in a machine shop for years that had commercial floor tiles (Armstrong) They are less than a buck a piece, and nearly indestructible. I'd like to do a black/white checkerboard in my next shop.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: PHOENIX
I need to do mine too and have the same concerns.
I have been doing a little research on concrete stains because it won't chip or flake like the epoxy coatings will. It is also cheap and easy.
The linoleum might melt when hot slag drips on it. I also hate linoleum because it is driving me nuts peeling it off an old floor so I swore to never install it(or wallpaper for the same reasons).
I have been doing a little research on concrete stains because it won't chip or flake like the epoxy coatings will. It is also cheap and easy.
The linoleum might melt when hot slag drips on it. I also hate linoleum because it is driving me nuts peeling it off an old floor so I swore to never install it(or wallpaper for the same reasons).
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Northshore, MN
I had the floor stained in my house/future shop(long story). It didn't set in. This is because of two things:
Fly-ash. Used in curing the concrete when it's below freezing outside. Fly-ash and stain do not mix.
Uneven floor. Because my floor has alot of high and low spots, the stain would gravitate to the low spots and leave the high spots bare. Which made it rather unsightly.
The floor people came back the next week, mopped/scrubbed up the stain, and layed down a tinted sealer which has held, but it's slowly wearing off. My contractor said it was their fault it didn't work. The floor people said the floor was a substandard pour. I tend to agree with the floor people. BTW, it cost $3 a square foot. My new garage will get a Sherwin Williams Epoxy floor paint, which is what is used at work. If I strike it rich, I plan on going to Griot's Garage, and buying their flooring.
Fly-ash. Used in curing the concrete when it's below freezing outside. Fly-ash and stain do not mix.
Uneven floor. Because my floor has alot of high and low spots, the stain would gravitate to the low spots and leave the high spots bare. Which made it rather unsightly.
The floor people came back the next week, mopped/scrubbed up the stain, and layed down a tinted sealer which has held, but it's slowly wearing off. My contractor said it was their fault it didn't work. The floor people said the floor was a substandard pour. I tend to agree with the floor people. BTW, it cost $3 a square foot. My new garage will get a Sherwin Williams Epoxy floor paint, which is what is used at work. If I strike it rich, I plan on going to Griot's Garage, and buying their flooring.
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From: Windsor, Colorado
Originally Posted by havi
I had the floor stained in my house/future shop(long story). It didn't set in. This is because of two things:
Fly-ash. Used in curing the concrete when it's below freezing outside. Fly-ash and stain do not mix.
Fly-ash. Used in curing the concrete when it's below freezing outside. Fly-ash and stain do not mix.
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I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Northshore, MN
Nope, it slows it down so they can still level it, or something like that IIRC, it was about -10 F when they poured it. The conrete provider adds fly-ash automatically. My contractor may have known that, but he didn't care. There was no sealer put on top. They didn't level it because it was too cold and snowing. They would untarp a section, float it, then cover it back up. Over night the wind blew some of the tarps off. My contractor said the curing will take 3 days and will create its own heat in that time, and to not worry about the cold. The floor doesn't look like it froze, no glazing or spider cracking, but the floor stainers said it froze. It's too late to worry about it now. But thanks for the heads up on the epoxy not sticking either.
Last edited by havi; Jan 19, 2008 at 10:54 AM.
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From: Lakewood, Ca.
Fly ash is furnace-slag, and is used as cementitious material, at least out here it actually replaces some of the cement used in a given mix. It is inert, as far as the set time is concerned.Mudmaker (check the name) knows what he is talking about.
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Northshore, MN
I'm not doubting him one bit. After the pour and stain was done, I talked to two concrete contractors and they both said fly-ash was an issue with concrete stain. I know none the wiser on such matters.
Last edited by havi; Jan 19, 2008 at 11:18 AM.
Posting Guru
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From: Windsor, Colorado
If that floor was uncovered in sub zero weather you are lucky you dont have major issues already. Concrete will make its own heat, but not that much. If they had a problem with is setting too fast it didnt have very much flyash in the mix. If you really want to know what is going on with it go to the ready mix supplier and ask them what type of high early they use. I dont know too many details on staining, but if a slab that has froze will not take stain that would be my bet.
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
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From: Northshore, MN
Marc, I agree, and I'd take that bet it was froze, too....and that the contractor (a general contractor to be specific) was covering his own behind. That said, the tinted sealer is holding ok. It's been a little over a year. It's a heated slab. No cracks or anything yet. I designed the place as a house to be converted into a shop, w/recessed shoplight fixtures in the rafters, 16' header behind the sheetrock, removeable interior walls via concrete screws, etc... It likely will remain a house, and a new garage will be built in a couple years. This time I'll use a different contractor for the slab. Like one who specializes in slabs. This is the floor in which my first post was referring to. I'll use epoxy, or if money allows, the griot's garage type covering. Knowing the epoxy may not stick, too, means I should make sure it's compatible, and atleast have the slab poured earlier than December. So, thanks again.
Wow, the site musta shut down.
Wow, the site musta shut down.