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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 06:52 PM
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460 to hot

i have a 69 with a 460 and when i got it it came with a 180 t stat in it and when sitting still for more then 5 min it would go past 200 so i changed it to a mr gasket highflow 160 t stat and after it wermed up i could sit for about 10 min and it would go up to 198 and slowly at that so i took the t stat out and it seems to be doing fine now it runs at 155 but i havent let it sit for more then 10 min and its not hot outside so if it get this hot now what will i do when it get hot in the summer? i have a 27 1/2 " rad in it thats 3" thick and no clutch on the fan, what should this motor run at? what is to hot and what is to cold?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 06:56 PM
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some time the water can run to fast ive already had to cut the center out of a t-stat to slow the water flow. do you have a fan shroud? and how many blades on the fan?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 09:06 PM
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5 blades on the fan and yes i do have a shroud, but how do you slow the water down by drilling a hole in the t-stat?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 10:58 PM
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I think he means slow the flow as compared to none at all.... Also 200 really isnt that hot.... I have a 72 Nova SS with a 350 and in summer (the only time i drive it) 200-210 is normal running temp....
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 11:13 PM
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rite on ther 68 f250 i meant compared to none at all.a guted t-stat looks like a flat washer so the hole isnt so big that the water free flows threw the rad and dont get a chance to cool
 
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 12:34 AM
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it runs good without one but what temp would yall say is to cold it runs good at 150 on a cold nite
 
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 06:21 AM
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I recommend that you use either a 180º or a 195º thermostat. That is the temp that it opens and gets the water flowing.

Do you have a 50/50 coolant mix? 50% antifreeze- 50% water?

Do you know the condition of the water pump? Is the water flowing? You should see movement withthe cap off and the T-stat open.

Did you leave the coolant level down 2-3" in the neck of the radiator?

You should answer yes to all of the questions to go forward if you are still having issues.


John
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 12:23 AM
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yes to all other then the one about the water level being 2-3" down in the radiator neck, why would that matter?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 46069dord
yes to all other then the one about the water level being 2-3" down in the radiator neck, why would that matter?
These trucks didn't come with expansion tanks and the water needs to be down to keep from puking it out.

Are you making any progress?


John
 
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 09:12 PM
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ok now yes to all and yes i took the t-stat out and now it runs at 160 but my heat don't work that good but then again it never did before so i don't think thats whats wrong
 
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 04:32 AM
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The next thing that I would suggest is to let the water down (capture it) in the radiator, remove the two heater hoses at the firewall and with a garden hose blow water through both inlets. This can flush any gunk or sediment out of the heater core. The heater core is a small radiator inside of the cab that the heater motor blows air through to make cab heat. Since we ride around most of the time with little movement of water in the core (it doesn't flow like the front radiator) sediment can build up with some waters.

FWIW Some of us have started only putting antifreeze mixed with (grocery store) distilled water in our systems.

When growing up in the NC country, my dad's radiators used to look like mud in them. I first noticed when I moved to Durham and started using city water my coolant would stay green much better. Since the grocery distilled water is less than a dollar a gallon (aprox $2.50 for a complete fill) I use it and premix my 50/50 coolant mix and keep it on hand.

Have you flushed or replaced the heater core?


John
 
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 08:18 PM
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no i have not replaced my heater core thanks for the info and do you guys think that my motor could be running lean and making it get hot i have a 750 holley on it but its not a dp and when i floor it i feels like it needs more gas and i changed the accelerater pump cam and that helped alot but did not fix it, before it would just stall and felt like it was starving for gas now it only does at high rpms it feels like it needs more gas do i need a bigger carb? i think i just need to get a tuning spring kit so my secondarys will open up faster the reason i say that is because i know that holleys come with a black spring and thats the hardest one so they might not be opening up all the way, i don't think i need to put a bigger accel pump cam cause it does good down low.
 
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