Door Conduits??
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From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Door Conduits??
Hey guys, I'm workin on my buddy's 56, and he has power windows, and door locks. He bought some of them stainless steel spring wire conduits, but the problem is...... Before I got to work on the truck, the guys who put the power windows in, didn't drill the hole in the right place from the door to the pillar post. I fixed that, by making a block off plate and lining up the holes. Before they didnt' have conduits, just taped up the wires.
Anyway, with the new conduits, and ALL the wires in them, they are fairly rigid, and they want to "kink" up and not slide into the door like they should. My question is has anybody used any better conduits? I know all about the jamb tact setup, but he has 8 wires to do, I also dont' want to use 2 seperat conduits on each door either. I found some made by Electric Life, and they have kind of a heim joint on the part that mounts to the pillar post. I was wondering if anyonehad used that kind. They call them a billet type? I mentioned he has 8 wires, but 5 of them are small, for the power door lock part. The power window wires are heavier, and the spring they go through is 1/2" inside dia.
Thanks for any help!!
Anyway, with the new conduits, and ALL the wires in them, they are fairly rigid, and they want to "kink" up and not slide into the door like they should. My question is has anybody used any better conduits? I know all about the jamb tact setup, but he has 8 wires to do, I also dont' want to use 2 seperat conduits on each door either. I found some made by Electric Life, and they have kind of a heim joint on the part that mounts to the pillar post. I was wondering if anyonehad used that kind. They call them a billet type? I mentioned he has 8 wires, but 5 of them are small, for the power door lock part. The power window wires are heavier, and the spring they go through is 1/2" inside dia.
Thanks for any help!!
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From: Westminster,Md
Hey Truxx ,I procured the same "spring" type conduits for my project , but haven"t got to the install part yet,do you think they are kinking because there" so many wires in them (8 did you say ), or do you think they might just be prone to kink ,too weak ? I"m only planning to run the power window harness thru then (what"s that gonna be? haven"t looked at the schematic lately..) No electric locks . I have not seen the other conduit your talking about ..,so I dont know either way .Thank"s for the insight ,I"ll be watching this thread.Good Luck!!
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
Mine use braided SS tubing, the type with teflon or plastic liner, and they do not bind or kink. They do have a restricted I.D. of ~ 1/4" tho that's why I used 2 on each side. I am using electric windows and lock solenoids and wanted to have capacity for in door speakers as well.
By the way I have mine set up to slide into the kick panel not into the door, there wasn't enough clear room inside the door with all the hinge bracing in there, that may be your problem.
By the way I have mine set up to slide into the kick panel not into the door, there wasn't enough clear room inside the door with all the hinge bracing in there, that may be your problem.
Last edited by AXracer; Jan 11, 2008 at 02:20 PM.
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From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Well, the folks who installed the power windows, drilled the hole through the brace, and I have a 3 1/2" hole saw so I cut a hole right through the door (inside) and then I can access the conduit. I also have a big enough hole through the brace to get the wires through. I added a hose to the conduit (with a hose clamp) to get the wires to the window motor. The billet ones I saw are stainless mesh, with a teflon lining like yours AX, but they said that they had a 1/2" I.D.?? I dont want to run another conduit, as I think it looks bad. This truck is really slick, and I dont want anything to take away from that.
Thanks for the replies so far, I need more ?
Thanks for the replies so far, I need more ?
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
The I.D. may be larger I'd have to look again. Are you sure it's not catching on the brace inside the door? I tried mine the other way around and couldn't get it to work consistantly nor did I want the wires moving inside the door for fear of fraying.
I spaced my two equidistant from the hinges. I don't find it visually objectionable, and I'm pretty fussy. Check in my making changes gallery.
I spaced my two equidistant from the hinges. I don't find it visually objectionable, and I'm pretty fussy. Check in my making changes gallery.
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From: Michigan
I have those same spring conduits in my 56 with at least that many wires (power windows, window switch (2 on drivers side), door solinoids and speakers)). I did modify the inner brace but my wires slide in the kick panel area not in the door. They are a little noise as they slide thru the plastic.
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Terry,
From what I remember the stainless spring type conduits are very similar to, and probably are, the spring type tubing benders. Why not just use some flexible conduit
Here are a couple of links;
http://www.semiconduits.com/pbf.html
http://www.semiconduits.com/yf_704.html
Looks like there are tons of options out there
Bobby
From what I remember the stainless spring type conduits are very similar to, and probably are, the spring type tubing benders. Why not just use some flexible conduit
Here are a couple of links;
http://www.semiconduits.com/pbf.html
http://www.semiconduits.com/yf_704.html
Looks like there are tons of options out there
Bobby
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From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Hey AX, maybe I'll try to turn them around? I thought they went that way? Plus the way they chopped up the hole in the door, and the pillar post, I didn't have a big choice. My buddy went to a Lowes, and got some electrical stuff that would work to hold it in place. Maybe if I turn it around, it will work? On a side note of all this stuff, I went to a TSC tonight, and they have an assortment of springs. They have one kind that's 3/4" I.D., and 7/8" O.D. It's 8 1/2" long. That might work for the extra wires?
Somehow I just got it in my head, that the slider part went in the door, and the grommet went in the pillar post. Maybe I was WRONG?? That happens from time to time!! Dad says the only people who dont make mistakes dont do anything.
I'll turn them around tomorrow, and let yall know if it helps??
Somehow I just got it in my head, that the slider part went in the door, and the grommet went in the pillar post. Maybe I was WRONG?? That happens from time to time!! Dad says the only people who dont make mistakes dont do anything.
I'll turn them around tomorrow, and let yall know if it helps??
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
From previous experience I avoided the spring type. Once they get a kink in them, even a small one, it's all over. The SS braid ones are surprisingly stiff, and don't take a set so they travel straight and don't curl. Last resort would be to use a salvaged late model oem conduit, they are roomy.
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From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
I'm goin to get him to order the ones your'e talkin about and see if that works for this application. I'll let you know when they come in how they work out.
THanks guys
THanks guys
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: La Pine, Oregon
AXracer- Do you remember the name brand of lined braided conduits you used? I just tried installing the SPW WIRE conduit - and just like you said - it immediately kinked! I'm also wanting to have the conduit slide into the pillar behind the kick panel- rather than into the door cuz would have to cut out some of the reinforcement inside door. Since it's the weekend I can't call SPW tech support right now- but will monday. Their instructions say best to have the conduit slide into the door in most cases - and I expect they may tell me they recommend that cuz may not be as kinkable that way. Because, as I think about it, seems if the conduit slides into the door, as the door moves it will keep the conduit prtty parallel to the plastic bushing tube it slides thru and not have as sharp as bend as when sliding into th door pillar. Sure will be lot more difficult to install that way though due to having to drill/cut out some of the inside door reinforcement. I will post what they say just for everyone's info.
Appreciate the help.
Ron in Oregon
Appreciate the help.
Ron in Oregon
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
Ron, mine were a no brand purchase off ebay, but they are identical to the ones Autoloc (now in their "Keep it clean wiring" line) sells for ~40.00 a pair. SS braided hose with teflon liner makes the "flex" part pretty stiff, one of the reasons it doesn't kink IMHO. The sliding bushing as well as the fixed end is machined aluminum with a threaded nut to hold them in place, no plastic anywhere. I can see the reason for the higher price in the quality and they work! I had to cut some holes in the door panel and inside bracing to access the inside door pillar to screw on the nuts as well as to pull the wires thru.
Mine slide behind the kick panel as you describe you'd like your's to do. I did put mine as close to the inside edge of the door pillar as possible and still be able to screw the nut on. The threads on the tubes stopped a little short to get them tight so I slipped a rubber garden hose washer on the inside before the nut, doubles as a water tight gasket and lock washer!
Mine slide behind the kick panel as you describe you'd like your's to do. I did put mine as close to the inside edge of the door pillar as possible and still be able to screw the nut on. The threads on the tubes stopped a little short to get them tight so I slipped a rubber garden hose washer on the inside before the nut, doubles as a water tight gasket and lock washer!
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From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Hey AX, I finally got that problem licked. My buddy bought the conduits from electric life. I wish he could have gotten the ones you described? The ones he got have a sort of heim joint for the part that mounts to the door post. That allows for a certain amount of off set. I had to make a "wedge" to go under it to help it make more of an angle so when the door is wide open, it would not be in a bind, but IT WORKS!!! I got all my wires in it and it does work! BUT I still had some problems since the IDIOTS who drilled the holes originally put them right in line with the lower cab mount brace. Of course the truck is painted and done so moving the hole was NOT an option. The only other thing I had to do was I had to put some thin sheetmetal over the rough brace so the conduit wouldnt hit it and have something smooth to slide over.
Yours look good AX, but I couldnt see them very well? Now on to all the other projects on the truck. This guy wants it all, it's like 50 lbs in a 5lbs sack!
Yours look good AX, but I couldnt see them very well? Now on to all the other projects on the truck. This guy wants it all, it's like 50 lbs in a 5lbs sack!