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Hey all, I am experiencing a problem with my truck. If I run it at about 3/4 throttle for a little while at say 19-23 psi of boost and then just go to cruising it has a hard time building boost, even if I smash it after I have let off of it. It builds boost very slowly for a little while then goes back to normal. The truck will only do it if I have run it at around 3/4 throttle for awhile. If I run it wide open for awhile then everything works fine. Is my turbo going out or just needs cleaned? Thanks a lot!!!
I'm trying to just pappy it around and make it last until I can afford a larger turbo and injectors, I'd hate to replace the factory one a little sooner than I can afford.
If I run it at about 3/4 throttle for a little while at say 19-23 psi of boost and then just go to cruising it has a hard time building boost, even if I smash it after I have let off of it.
I had the same thing happening to me. Every time I would get on the throttle for a while it would take a few seconds to build boost again. Then I had the heat induction flash done and it has never done it again. You might try to get the heat induction flash.
Its a computer flash that ford came out with several months ago. It heats up your injectors when you shut your truck down and burns off any oil or buildup on the injectors.
I think this is the flash mentioned above: 2003/04 Computer Programming Recall 06E17: Truck built before 9-29-03 are being recalled to have the computer reprogrammed. The reason for this recall is to correct fuel injection timing during cold operation, EGR valve control, lack of power, check engine light illumination (P02263 or P0299), hard starting and rough running concerns related to Exhaust BackPressure sensor corrosion. Other symptoms not listed in this recall, but which could occur, would be excessive smoke, turbo control and surging at idle or cruise. The new update eliminates the EBP sensor input to the computer. The exhaust backpressure will now be inferred/calculated using other sensor signals. Trucks should be reprogrammed using versions 41.8 or 42.1 or higher. After this reprogramming, the truck should be test driven, the computer checked for a codes and the codes cleared (even if none are present), the key cycled on for five seconds, then turned off twice, then the engine started and allowed to idle for 5 minutes at operating temperature to allow the computer to relearn the EGR valve closed position value. This is to prevent erronious codes or driveability sysmptoms related to the EGR valve an turbo performance. Broadcast Messages 5452, 5529. You should notice an increase in turbo cycling closed/whistling at idle and at stops. This is normal, and is to help keep the variable vanes from sticking.
69 cobra jet is right the TSB is # 07-5-4 and is for sticking injector spools. This is the latest flash for the problem and supercedes the injector buzz which was used for this same problem. This is one reason good oil maintenance is important on these engines. Also I would not discount the turbo from causing this problem that you are having. It could be caused by sticking veins or the VGT control valve itself could not be responding well. The dealer has the ability with their diagnostic equipment to exercise the turbo to see if it is not responding the way it should.
Last edited by 3000 FPS; Jan 10, 2008 at 06:11 PM.
Reason: Typo
Its a computer flash that ford came out with several months ago. It heats up your injectors when you shut your truck down and burns off any oil or buildup on the injectors.
You are confusing the "buzz" flash with the induction flash. The buzz flash bleeds the oil out of the injectors after shutdown. The induction flash heats the injectors at startup.
Its a computer flash that ford came out with several months ago. It heats up your injectors when you shut your truck down and burns off any oil or buildup on the injectors.
The inductive heating flash uses the spool valve operating solenoids as heaters when you start your truck. The colder the motor the longer they heat. It doesn't burn off any oil buildup on the injectors. If you have sticking spool valves due to cold oil it's supposed to help them move sooner. A spool valve only moves .017" as it slides back and forth to allow high pressure oil from the high pressure oil pump into the injector to fire the injector. If it sticks then the injector doesn't fire. As the injector warms up from engine heat it will usually start to fire (unless the spool valve is so gunked up it can't move).
These operating solenoids don't replace glow plug heat either. Glow plugs are used to heat the inside of the cylinder to aid in diesel combustion on cold starts. The glow plugs can stay on for quite a while after the wait to start light goes out. Hope this helps.