Finishing Bed
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Atwater, CA
Finishing Bed
Hello Everyone.
First post.
After reading the following website about different finishes for wooden truck beds:
http://www.mar-k.com/wood_finish_testing_ii.html
It was interesting to read the following:
POR 15 Black and BEHR Gloss Black exterior paint
POR 15 dries to a very hard waterproof finish but it is UV sensitive. We applied three coats of black POR 15 paint to the boards and topcoated with the same BEHR gloss black paint that was used in the first test series. The POR 15 will provide the strength and adhesion and the BEHR gloss black will provide the resistance to sunlight.
The results after TWO years of being outside in the elements:
<TABLE id=Table1 cellSpacing=3 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=1><TBODY><TR><TD width=188>
</TD><TD width=171>
</TD><TD width=211>
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
1. Has anyone else used this particular method for finishing their truck bed?
I'm interested in a finish that will last for an extended period of time and I was also interested in doing a finish that will be red in color. What I was thinking of doing is using the POR-15 base coats and then using Behr best quality RED exterior latex enamel. (Doing the red color because of the particular paint scheme that I'm doing on my '56 F-100)
2. Is this method "frowned" upon by classic truck builders?
Most of time (if not all of the time) people finish their wooden slats with stain or an epoxy (or linseed oil, or polyurethene, etc.) Or would this fall under a "custom" bed finish.
Thanks for your input.
Shane
1956 F-100
First post.
After reading the following website about different finishes for wooden truck beds:
http://www.mar-k.com/wood_finish_testing_ii.html
It was interesting to read the following:
POR 15 Black and BEHR Gloss Black exterior paint
POR 15 dries to a very hard waterproof finish but it is UV sensitive. We applied three coats of black POR 15 paint to the boards and topcoated with the same BEHR gloss black paint that was used in the first test series. The POR 15 will provide the strength and adhesion and the BEHR gloss black will provide the resistance to sunlight.
The results after TWO years of being outside in the elements:
<TABLE id=Table1 cellSpacing=3 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=1><TBODY><TR><TD width=188>
7. Oak boards, coated with three brushed coats of POR-15 three hours apart, then three coats brushed Behr best quality black exterior latex enamel, three hours apart.
</TD><TD width=171>
This coating has not failed. Only slight dulling of the original gloss. No other defects.
</TD><TD width=211>
If a weather resistant finish is desired, this is the best system we have tested.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
1. Has anyone else used this particular method for finishing their truck bed?
I'm interested in a finish that will last for an extended period of time and I was also interested in doing a finish that will be red in color. What I was thinking of doing is using the POR-15 base coats and then using Behr best quality RED exterior latex enamel. (Doing the red color because of the particular paint scheme that I'm doing on my '56 F-100)
2. Is this method "frowned" upon by classic truck builders?
Most of time (if not all of the time) people finish their wooden slats with stain or an epoxy (or linseed oil, or polyurethene, etc.) Or would this fall under a "custom" bed finish.
Thanks for your input.
Shane
1956 F-100
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Most people want the natural wood look rather than a painted finish, so are looking for a transparent coating, that's where the problems come in. If you are going for a painted finish, why use wood at all? A metal floor or sheetmetal cover over the wood would hold paint a lot better than wood, or if you want a grain pattern to show thru the paint I'd investigate some of the synthetic deck planks. The sheet metal or the deck planks can be painted with regular automotive paints (I'd add some of the plasticizer used when painting plastic bumper covers for the deck planks).
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 206
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From: Atwater, CA
AXracer,
In terms of synthetic decking, how would one go about fastening them to the bed of the truck? Can the synthetic decking be routered so the metal strips can be used?
Shane
In terms of synthetic decking, how would one go about fastening them to the bed of the truck? Can the synthetic decking be routered so the metal strips can be used?
Shane
Last edited by Herbiehusker; Jan 8, 2008 at 11:28 AM.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
You can do most any machining to the synthetic that you can to wood, just use carbide cutters and don't try to make too heavy a cut so it doesn't get hot. Since it has no grain, you won't experience any tearout or chipping. It can also be drilled for screws and bolts. Since it doesn't compress like wood you need to precut for countersunk screw/bolt heads or carriage bolts. It expands and contracts more than wood so give it a little more space around the edges and drill holes a little oversized.
Last edited by AXracer; Jan 8, 2008 at 12:32 PM.
