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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 11:06 AM
  #16  
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Which means that leakage shows a problem with the GPR? I am going now to put a meter on it(#3) an see what I read.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 11:17 AM
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I had over 12V on both small terminals.Please lead me in the right direction.All appreciated.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 12:47 PM
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Remove the wire on small terminal #3, and tape up the wire end. Be real careful, as there are other terminals on the relay that are going to be "hot" ALL the time while you're in there with a wrench.

Find a piece of jumper wire a couple of feet long at least. Strip the insulation from both ends.

Put one end of the jumper wire under a ground bolt or screw. Make SURE that it is actually grounded. Remember, a lot of the front end is plastic. If the wire is long enough, you might want to just run it to the passenger-side NEGATIVE battery post to be sure.

Turn the key to "ON"

Touch the other end of the jumper wire to terminal #3, and NOWHERE ELSE!!. Do you hear a click? If so, then measure for voltage on large terminal #4 while touching small terminal #3 with the jumper. If you get voltage on large terminal #4 while doing that, your Glow Plug Relay is good, and you will have to find out why the ground from the PCM isn't being provided.

Likely, that's our next step.

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Last edited by SpringerPop; Jan 7, 2008 at 01:12 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 09:49 PM
  #19  
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It's two days later.

Guess Tripod musta' got it fixed...

I sure wish some of these guys would come back and let us know if we've helped.

It takes time to write out this stuff for them, and we haven't a clue whether it was worthwhile or not.....

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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 09:53 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
It's two days later.

Guess Tripod musta' got it fixed...

I sure wish some of these guys would come back and let us know if we've helped.

It takes time to write out this stuff for them, and we haven't a clue whether it was worthwhile or not.....

Pop
It would be nice, but you just have to assume no news is good news.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:11 PM
  #21  
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Not to be a smart azz, but you did change the correct relay, Right?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:46 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
It's two days later.

Guess Tripod musta' got it fixed...

I sure wish some of these guys would come back and let us know if we've helped.

It takes time to write out this stuff for them, and we haven't a clue whether it was worthwhile or not.....

Pop
I fully agree. I would think it is common courtesy but what do I know? Ask for help, at least respond whether it helped. If it didn't and was something else, we can all benefit. Hope he posts back.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by bdrummonds
Not to be a smart azz, but you did change the correct relay, Right?
From the information he was giving us, it appeared that there may not have been a need to change any relay at all. It was beginning to look like a wiring problem, or a PCM problem, but he disappeared before we could find out.

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Last edited by SpringerPop; Jan 9, 2008 at 11:33 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 11:24 PM
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I'm with Brandon on this one I wonder if he had the right relay.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 11:35 PM
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We may never know.....

Pop
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 1996pwrstrk
I'm with Brandon on this one I wonder if he had the right relay.
First,I'm back,never left.2nd,didnt know how much back and forth the moderators would put up with.(double preposition).I changed the right one,had a hell of a time getting it due to the mounting pad not matching.Ford dealer after 2 days of research came up with it.My truck is in the local mechanics garage for an installation of a manual operation switch which was suggested on this board.Very good idea.I was an aircraft eng mech on recips for 20 years but never was much of an electrician.Figured I would have the wiring done right, I printed out schematics from you guys and gave it to them.All the help is very much appreciated because $$ is very scarce and you guys save me some with your opinions and knowledge.The local garage is cheap and a friend of mine that I wont take advantage of and thats why I ask questions on here,Thanks again.-Tripod.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 10:32 AM
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That manual switch is a good idea. One of my next changes, and I'll include an LED indicator, too.

Thanks for getting back to us, but remember, we want to hear how it turns out "at the end", that is after you get the truck back and have driven it on a few really cold days.

Pop
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 02:27 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
That manual switch is a good idea. One of my next changes, and I'll include an LED indicator, too.

Thanks for getting back to us, but remember, we want to hear how it turns out "at the end", that is after you get the truck back and have driven it on a few really cold days.

Pop
Mechanic said it started this am.Temp wasnt cold-32 degrees. A switch w/red warning lite is mounted and I checked GPR with test lite,have power to GP post for a change.Hope it works,if not we will go from there.Also,do I more or less use a sliding scale as to "on" time vs. temp or if I leave it on too long I cant hurt anything? Will it cut out on its own? I know 2 min max,but lite goes out after 20-30 seconds.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 08:37 PM
  #29  
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i want to mount an LED light in my cab for mine as well but i am noit much of an electrician either . anyone have any 411 on what to wire to what? also, how long will the LED stay on? the whole time the glow plugs are on (i think 1.5 - 2 minutes) or just long enough to initially heat them?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 08:59 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by greagin
i want to mount an LED light in my cab for mine as well but i am noit much of an electrician either . anyone have any 411 on what to wire to what? also, how long will the LED stay on? the whole time the glow plugs are on (i think 1.5 - 2 minutes) or just long enough to initially heat them?
If you can operate a test light then you should be able to wire it up yourself. One of the large posts on the GPR will be hot only when the key is first turned on. Wire the hot wire to the LED to this post. Wire the other wire to a good ground. There are several inside the cab just to the right of the fuses behind the access door. The LED will stay on as long as the GPR is feeding power to the glow plugs.
 
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