Front End Grinding
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Front End Grinding
2003 4x4 6.0 - no mods or lift - 130k
I have recently noticed a humming / vibration sound coming from the front end of my rig while driving at highway speeds. Last night, the ABS light came on and almost immediately I had a grinding (metal on metal) sound coming from the Left Front wheel. Also, it began to pull to the left like the brake was engaged on that one wheel. I removed the Left Front tire and noticed alot of wobble on the tire when removing it. What I mean by wobble is, if you grab the tire on the top and bottom and push/pull it has alot of play.
I think my bearings are shot. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
If it is the bearings, am I looking at an expensive repair? I don't have the time to make the repairs myself.
Thanks in advance
I have recently noticed a humming / vibration sound coming from the front end of my rig while driving at highway speeds. Last night, the ABS light came on and almost immediately I had a grinding (metal on metal) sound coming from the Left Front wheel. Also, it began to pull to the left like the brake was engaged on that one wheel. I removed the Left Front tire and noticed alot of wobble on the tire when removing it. What I mean by wobble is, if you grab the tire on the top and bottom and push/pull it has alot of play.
I think my bearings are shot. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
If it is the bearings, am I looking at an expensive repair? I don't have the time to make the repairs myself.
Thanks in advance
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From: So.Ca./ N.E. UT
130,000 on the original bearings is pretty good. No aftermarket wheels? It's definately wheel bearings, that motor weighs like 5,000 lbs. bearings need to cleaned/ greased often, especially if in wet conditions. Don't know what the $ is though. You can pull the rotors off and take them in to get new bearings, might save a bit on the labor.
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Originally Posted by rotun
130,000 on the original bearings is pretty good. No aftermarket wheels? It's definately wheel bearings, that motor weighs like 5,000 lbs. bearings need to cleaned/ greased often, especially if in wet conditions. Don't know what the $ is though. You can pull the rotors off and take them in to get new bearings, might save a bit on the labor.
http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/nblube.html
The hub and bearing is an assembly that must be replaced as a unit. I think it's a couple hundred bucks a side for new ones and several hours work. I had mine off a month ago to service the needle bearings. If you do this you might as well clean and lube the caliper slide pins and service the locking hubs while you're into it. Check your brake rotors and pads too. If you have ESOF I'd recommend checking to see if the hubs hold vacuum before taking things apart and repair if needed. The hubs have to come off to replace the knuckle seal anyhow. Check the axle dust seal if you need to replace the knuckle seal, and if your ball joints are getting to where they need to be replaced it's a good time to take care of that too.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Colorado Springs
When mine go, this is probably the route I'll take to fix it:
DynaTrac Free Spin
I understand Ford used the unit bearings to facilitate ease of manufacture, but they cannot be rebuilt, don't hold up as well, and are pricey to replace. The DynaTrac is pricey to start, but easier to maintain once in.
Mark
DynaTrac Free Spin
I understand Ford used the unit bearings to facilitate ease of manufacture, but they cannot be rebuilt, don't hold up as well, and are pricey to replace. The DynaTrac is pricey to start, but easier to maintain once in.
Mark
Last edited by 4x4Mark; Jan 5, 2008 at 09:05 AM.
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After thinking about it, perhaps I spoke too soon. I've heard that most of the trucks are ESOF(mine is) but I'm not certain that the manual ones use the same unit bearing. As Mark points out, there are ways to convert to a much more owner serviceable friendly front hub that uses common and easily replacable bearings.
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From: Nesconset NY
Hub bearings are not difficult to change, we do it in our shop often, it takes about 30 min. a side. The painful side is the cost, A Premium quality hub and bearing assembly costs about $280.00 a side. Also, avoid the china hubs, they don't last.
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Originally Posted by toolman05kr
Hub bearings are not difficult to change, we do it in our shop often, it takes about 30 min. a side. The painful side is the cost, A Premium quality hub and bearing assembly costs about $280.00 a side. Also, avoid the china hubs, they don't last.
I think I could probably figure the replacement out by following some of the steps found in the tech folder for servicing the needle bearings.
Thanks again.
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From: Nesconset NY
any of the parts houses you mention should have them. check the part and make sure it's made by a reputable company,[Naional, timkin, moog,BCA, CR, etc. If it says made in china , stay away.Ford sells them for $277.00 to $322.00 depending on where you go. Hope this helps and good luck.
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I pulled the bearing / hub assembly and I am pretty confident that this was the problem. It requires alot of pressure to make the unit turn and doesnt spin freely. Also, the ABS sensor was popped out of the hub and had alot of metal filings stuck to it. The needle bearing and axle look pretty good, so I think I will just regrease them and replace the assembly and go on down the road.
Any final suggestions from the experts before I continue with this repair.
Thanks for all of the input!!
Any final suggestions from the experts before I continue with this repair.
Thanks for all of the input!!