Flywheel Question
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30
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From: KY
Flywheel Question
I'm doing a clutch replacement on my 99 Ranger SuperCab 3.0 4x4 155,000 mi. and I have few questions for the crew.
1. Can the flywheel be machined, or is it a tapered (concave) design that requires replacement?
2. Does anyone know the resistance values that the O2 sensors should meet? I would like to ohm them out before replacing all three.
Thanks
Chris
1. Can the flywheel be machined, or is it a tapered (concave) design that requires replacement?
2. Does anyone know the resistance values that the O2 sensors should meet? I would like to ohm them out before replacing all three.
Thanks
Chris
Last edited by KD4PWH; Jan 5, 2008 at 12:05 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,242
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
Can the flywheel be machined, or is it a tapered (concave) design that requires replacement?
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It is worn with clutch disk, but usually no reason to replace it if it is not concave for less then 2-3 mm.
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It is worn with clutch disk, but usually no reason to replace it if it is not concave for less then 2-3 mm.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 681
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From: SE Michigan
KD4WPH, yes the flywheel should be able to be machined if it's uneven or has ridges. Just to make sure, contact an automotive machine shop in your area about this. I don't think they've changed to the point yet where they're just throw aways. Sounds like it would also be a good time to put a new pilot bushing in the crank for the transmission input shaft. When installing the flywheel onto the crank, if you can't get the second or third bolt started because the holes don't seem to be lined up, it's because they aren't. Some engines have the bolt hole spacing off set so the flywheel balance pad will line up correctly with the crankshaft to keep the factory balance in place. So you may need to rotate the flywheel to a different hole or two on the crank to get them to line up. I'm not exactly sure if this applies to your engine or not but it's something to keep in mind. Have fun and let us know how it goes. Sorry, I'm not sure about those resistance values.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 514
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From: Ohio
It is commonly advocated here that if you are doing the clutch job to also replace the slave cylinder while you are in there-prevent a future headache. Consider replacing the rubber shift rail plugs. I believe some even say to replace them with metal ones if you can get ones to fit.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30
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From: KY
Using a machined straight edge, the flywheel was about .004"" tapered to the inside. I went ahead and just bought a new one. I'm also replacing the slave cylinder as well.
I finally got the pilot bearing out with a cold chisel and a lot of pounding. The new one has a rubber seal in it on one edge....does anyone know which way to install it? With the seal toward the crank, or tranny?
Thanks for all the replies!
Chris
I finally got the pilot bearing out with a cold chisel and a lot of pounding. The new one has a rubber seal in it on one edge....does anyone know which way to install it? With the seal toward the crank, or tranny?
Thanks for all the replies!
Chris
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