right block for 540
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right block for 540
Once you get down to bare block are all 429/460's the same? Or are some stronger than others? I am starting project
"torque Word removed by FTE admin." which will consist of either a standard bore 460 or .030, with the SCAT 9000 4.5" stroker crank.
By the time I'm done I am figuring on a little over 500 ponies with gobs of torque. I might possibly have access to a '96 460 in whole, but I will be stripping it down to block and building from scratch. Will this block be a good candidate or should I look for an older 429/460? I could also use advice on heads. I'm thinking EDL RPM's and cam help would be nice too. It is going in a 71 Ford 3/4 ton 4x4 with a beefy C6, 3.73's or 4.10's and 38's. It will be used for towing a trailer of quads over the hills and showing off at the dunes. NOT a daily driver.
"torque Word removed by FTE admin." which will consist of either a standard bore 460 or .030, with the SCAT 9000 4.5" stroker crank.
By the time I'm done I am figuring on a little over 500 ponies with gobs of torque. I might possibly have access to a '96 460 in whole, but I will be stripping it down to block and building from scratch. Will this block be a good candidate or should I look for an older 429/460? I could also use advice on heads. I'm thinking EDL RPM's and cam help would be nice too. It is going in a 71 Ford 3/4 ton 4x4 with a beefy C6, 3.73's or 4.10's and 38's. It will be used for towing a trailer of quads over the hills and showing off at the dunes. NOT a daily driver.
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Billings, MT
right block for 540
I'm 99% sure they built the 460 until 1997. I believe that's when they had the new design F-150 and F-250 LD, but the old design F-250 HD and F-350.
On the original topic, that block should be good for up to about 600 or so horses. If you go with an early 70's or earlier block, they used a different casting method that left more material in the block and made it good for 700 horses or so. Beyond that, an SVO after-market block may be the way to go. SVO makes an all-aluminum 429/460 4-bolt main block that's good for something like 1500 horses and can be bored and stroked to over 800 cubes.
I think with the Edelbrock RPM heads you'll want to go with the 4.10's or even 4.56 rear gears with those 38's, as those heads will bring your power band up a little over stock and you'll want the lower gears to compensate.
The Law
1989 F-250 HD 4x4
460, C6, BW 13-56, Sterling 10.25" (4.10:1), Dana 44 HD (4.09:1), twin K&N's, no muffler, stock lo-flo cat, Bosch Platinum Plugs (0.060") MSD 6A and TFI Blaster Coil
On the original topic, that block should be good for up to about 600 or so horses. If you go with an early 70's or earlier block, they used a different casting method that left more material in the block and made it good for 700 horses or so. Beyond that, an SVO after-market block may be the way to go. SVO makes an all-aluminum 429/460 4-bolt main block that's good for something like 1500 horses and can be bored and stroked to over 800 cubes.
I think with the Edelbrock RPM heads you'll want to go with the 4.10's or even 4.56 rear gears with those 38's, as those heads will bring your power band up a little over stock and you'll want the lower gears to compensate.
The Law
1989 F-250 HD 4x4
460, C6, BW 13-56, Sterling 10.25" (4.10:1), Dana 44 HD (4.09:1), twin K&N's, no muffler, stock lo-flo cat, Bosch Platinum Plugs (0.060") MSD 6A and TFI Blaster Coil
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Nevada
right block for 540
'68-78 block is your best choice. In '79, ford began using vacuum casting to cut down on the amount of material used in a block. Not that it matters for most purposes, but the early block is stronger.
For 500hp, any early block will work. A 2-bolt will easily handle that hp and if you decide at a later date to go for bigger hp, there are 4-bolt conversions for the thin-webbed DIVEs that eliminate a 4-bolt block requirement until you get up to 8-900hp, where an aftermarket 4-bolt block will be required.
Edelbrock heads will, with a decent cam, balanced assembly and the correct valve train, put you well over 500hp.
For 500hp, any early block will work. A 2-bolt will easily handle that hp and if you decide at a later date to go for bigger hp, there are 4-bolt conversions for the thin-webbed DIVEs that eliminate a 4-bolt block requirement until you get up to 8-900hp, where an aftermarket 4-bolt block will be required.
Edelbrock heads will, with a decent cam, balanced assembly and the correct valve train, put you well over 500hp.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Oklahoma
right block for 540
Just something to consider. Install a GER or TCI 2.75:1 planetary gear in the C6 to make it a wide-ratio trans (or buy one already built). A big-cube motor should make plenty of torque to cover the increased rpm drop between shifts and you won't have to go as low with the ring and pinion so cruising rpm won't be as high. These even have roller thrust bearings to reduce internal friction as well.
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From: Rice Lake USA
right block for 540
I would suggest tring to find a '69 T-bird 429. the cast numbers start with C9. Those motors have much thicker cylinder walls, so running big cubes and high horsepower is fine. They don't over heat real easy. I built one for my pull truck. A '70 (DOVE) or '71 (D1VE) are very good blocks too. See if you can get a hold of one of those. That would be great for you.
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right block for 540
I was thinking I should just find an old car like an LTD or something. How much can one of those be had for, a 69 t Bird i mean or even a LTD or something? What else had 460 or 429's. We have an LTD with a 429 in it but no chance of getting that motor. (its my dads)
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