i got a 95 f150 and today i was driving and the clutch just like weird. right now when i push on the clutch it shoots straight down and doesnt come up. i can lift it up and it has some suction on it until half way up the goes up. the truck cant shift and is currently in neutral and currenlty on the side of some road. whats the problem and how can it be fixed?

 

Most likely it's the slave cylinder. Look underneath for brake fluid leaking out of the front of the transmission. If that's the case, the transmission will have to be removed to replace it.

Other possibilities are the clutch master cylinder (check for leakage around it too) or the clutch itself.

 

im getting a tow truck to get it to my house tom. ill get to look at it when its warmer then 15 deg. out. if it is to be the slave cylinder how hard is it to replace and how much do new ones cost? even better how much would it cost for a garage to do this job for me.

 

I had a similar problem when I bout my truck. The clutch was sliping really bad, about half way home the pedal started doing like yours did, so I pulled over, to check it out, and wufff, flames shot up from the bell housing. Clutch got so hot it melted the seals, and then ignited the brake fluid. (that was a fun day)
The slave isn't to bad, I would recomend doing the clutch along with it since you have to drop the trans anywase, and chances are you may have sprung a leak and sprayed brake fluid on the clutch.
For a clutch and slave, I believe most places charge around $1200 but am not sure.
is it a 4x4?

 

it is a 4x4. how much about would it cost to just get the clutch and slave cylinder and do the work myself

 

well i did the clutch and slave cylinder in my 94 f-150 4x4 with a 300- 6 and clutch kit cost me $116 and the slave was $98 the reason shops charge so much is because its about a 6 hour job.... but... also i get parts at cost so .. if you have a account at a auto parts store then they'll be around the same price i paid.... but yea.. if you have a couple buddys.. you can knock it out in one night like i did... all you need is a B.F.H ( Big . F**king . Hammer ) and a 12 pack and anything is possible

 

i took a good look at the truck today. i dont see any leakage anywhere and also the resevoir is still full with fluid. any ideas on what broke?

 

Sounds more like a bypassed master cylinder. My slave went first, puking fluid everywhere, and the master followed within 3 weeks. Since you have no leakage, I would suspect the master cylinder. Looks easy enough to replace, but not so sure how easy it is on the bank account.

 

so i kind of bleed the clutch today and it is coming back up to me and i can now drive it. it doesnt exactly run as good as it did before but its pretty close. no more fluid has leaked out either. what the hell is going on with my truck

 

Contaminated fluid, Open the bleed screw and let it flow out and keep the level in the reservior by pouring fluid in the master till it is clean coming out of the bleeder screw. Then tighten the screw and add the appropriate amount. its probably a tiny particle holding up for orings in your master.

 

I KNOW EXACTLY WHAT IT IS!!!!!

look underneath the dash and see if you peddle has disconnected from the rod that runs into you'r master clutch cylender. The clip is $3.72 from ford, or if your friends with the people from the local parts store, they'll give you one of a remaned master cylender for free.

I was diss appointed after this happened to my truck and I had spent close to $400 on parts (Clutch, flywheel, slave cylender, hydrallic line), and I didn't find it untill I went to replace the master cylender. I was disgusted that I spend all my money on those parts, and I only needed a $4 peice.

Let me know what you find!

BTW, if you can shift without using the clutch (meshing gears you can get it home). I know you can start it, because the rod is disconnected and wont stay on, but park you're truck on a hill, set the brake, put it in neutral, and bridge the sylinoid terminals. Jump in it and mesh it into 1st when you start rolling foward. Don't let it stop. I had to do this in stop and go traffic, so I had a friend in a K5 blazer behind me to push me up to about 10mph and mash his brakes so I could mesh into 2nd gear and go. Every time I had to stop I just bliped the throttle to take the stress off the gears, and slip it into neutral and do it over again when I had to get it rolling.

John

 

i dont think that clip is the problem. before teh fluid was empty. filled it and pushed the clutch up and down a few hundred times and it works now and i got all teh bubbles out. the fluid is now holding and truck is working close to perfect. what could have caused the fluid to go to empty before but doesnt leak now?

 

maybee you have a bad cap on the master cylindr? You might check the fire wall insulation on the inside of the truck maybee the master cylinder is leaking from the pedal piston which would let the fluid inside the truck under the floor mat.

 

Hello? This guy i work with said that This is a family site do not refer to people in that term, Removed by Admin I mean he said back when he raced in the busch series they had to buy a $300 tool to bleed their ford hydraulic clutches. He said tak it to a dealership to get it bled.