The 351w is taller from the crankshaft centerline, which makes it wider as well. I think, but not sure, that the angle at which the heads sit is canted out slightly, which also helps it get a little wider. It's still not all that much though. The Fairlane engine is the one that started the modern small block evolution from the old Y blocks at Ford. It started at 221 ci in (I think) 63, went to 260 ci for like a year, then 289 for a few, to 351w in 68. I don't know how much they changed the Fairlanes to get the 351w in there in 68, but maybe there was room there to start. But the swap is probably not going to give you more room for headers unless it gets wider higher enough(if you follow what I'm thinking.) Being that the 351 went in just 2 years after yours, there has to have been a bunch of swaps, you'd think, but I'd still try and research it and find out what all is involved. You want to avoid a 75- 84 or so block because the quality wasn't the best in that time frame. A 69-71 block supposedly has the highest nickle content and is touted as the best block. The 69-71's also had the best heads, so if you buy a core motor from that year and plan on using stock heads, you kill 2 birds with one stone-maybe. NOW, you gotta find one of those year motors, and it needs to have bores that aren't already bored 0.40 over. If it costs more than an 86- up motor, you need to decide wether you want to use those heads or can sell them to offset that extra cost. The chances of finding a 86 up block that isn't .030 over already are just naturally better than finding one 12+ years older. So we're really talking ideally here and not manditory. My block is a '79 that's 0.40 over already, ( gonna be .060 over, long story, don't ask), but I'm not too worried about longevity with my motor because it's gonna spend 85% of the time parked, 13% of the time cruising and 2% all out, and it'll probably outlast me. So I guess what I'm saying is you could really use any if you wanted. The newer blocks use a one piece rear main seal and a 2 pc. fuel pump eccentric, so they have that going for them. I think you will be fine with the newer block because by building the motor while you drive the car, you will find you can afford many better parts because you spend a little at a time and you can shop for bargains, and you'll be happier with some aftermarket heads.

 

OK, I don't know where y'all are getting the idea that an 86-up Windsor is a roller block, but you're wrong. The 94-up F4TE 351 W blocks are the only roller ready Windsors. And the 351W didn't appear in 68 Fairlanes, that happened in 1969. The 66 Fairlane engine bay will accomodate a big block, so the Windsor is an easy fit, a bolt in swap from a 289. The 289 can make power, just depends on what you want to spend. Heads, cam and intake are where its at. The 73 heads had bigger chambers than the earlier 66-67 heads only way to get 10.5 to 1 in a 289 is to mill the heads.

 

Baddad-I don't know where you got the idea that anybody thought 86 351w's were roller blocks. The question that was asked and answered was were 86 5.0's roller blocks. I stand corrected, the 302 was in 68, the 351w in 69. I liked the way you said "roller ready"- 'cause it ain't that tough to make any of 'em rollers, is it?

 

the 73 "D" chambered heads i use are milled for a 58 cc chamber, and the larger valves are installed. compared to the standard 63 cc heads,with the 170/150 valves.
by using a 58 cc chamber on the stock 9.0 compression ratio ho short block, you raise the C.R. to rite about 10.5

 

doug122556------go back and read what you posted in #16. You started off talking about the 351 and went off track into 289/302's without saying so. To the uninformed, it sounds like you're saying the 86-up 351's were roller blocks. As for "roller-ready", yea, any block can use a roller cam, but it's far more expensive to convert a flat-tappet block to roller than it is to start off with a roller block.

 

Better go back and redo the math on that. A 5 cc drop in chamber volume, isn't going to relate to a 1-1/2 point rise in the comp ratio. 1/2 point, yea, but not a point and a half.

 

Baddad 457- Sorry, I was responding to thread # 9, I can't seem to figure out how to quote a message in reply, clicking the option box does nothing. Probably should have elaborated, but I knew what I was talking about and figured he did too.

 

First of all 260/289/302/351 all have H beam stock forged rods!And are good for over 8000 RPM's with good rod bolts and polishing. And 289 HIPO's are K codes. And hipo and Boss 302 rods are good for 10000 RPM'S with good rod bolts and polishing. The 69 thru 74 351 engines are best because a little money you can convert them to four bolt mains for the center three only. stroker kits are really cheap. Heads will help you make the most power. Check out ebay they have tons of Ford small block heads and other goodies there cheap. If you go with a 351 W use the truck rods not the car rods which are weaker. Make up some steel mounts for your car or buy some after market mounts, the stock ones won't make it. Any front sump pan will work but go for a deep sump style. Feel free to call me or email me about what you want to do. Hope this helps. Mrford49 Ron 815-671-0911 ram65kfb@aol.com PS : I owned a Ford speed shop for 20 years and has sinced retired but still building my own toys.

 

Mustang headers will work on the Fairlane if you want to go with the 351W.MY opinion(for what it's worth)is to go with a 302(5.0L)possibly with a stroker kit.A a reasonable budget you can put together a 5.0 with forged pistons,spray 100HP NAWSE and have a reliable engine.Aftermarket heads are not priced out of reason but if you have a source for porting,you can do OK with a stock head.The 5.0 guys will chime in with the E7TE heads and they are a good head.If you just want a good stout street car these guys will give you some great recomendations.

 

SBF rods are all I beams and not H beams. H beams are aftermarket only.

 

Oops..

289/271 HP = K code.

1966/67 Fairlane V8 engine choices:

289 2V (C code); 289 4V (A code); 289/271HP (K code); 390 2V (H or Y code); 390 4V (S or Z code)...and 427 4V (W code); 427 8V (R code).
No 302's till spring 1968.

No 428's in Fairlane/Torino's till the 1968 model year.

 

oops. k code .

i was talking to a friend just before i posted that, and we were reminising about his old r code galaxie.

that was a car than moved.

 

Mrford 49- Those 289's have to be able to turn rev's to make power, but the stress of the nitrous was my concern, and I'm talking about 300 hp shots not 100 or less. I'd echo everything else you said excepting H-beams. 2020- I've been re-thinking my original advice about the 351w for a couple of reasons. Even though it will fit, and the Fairlanes were offered with the big blocks, the 351w is heavier than the 289, and will probably require a spring swap and may make the car a little nose heavy. The other thing is jimford's request for a reliable street car. While I think the extra cubes=extra reliability, it comes with a price. He didn't say how much driving he'd be doing, but if he wants reliability because he's gonna drive it daily, (or even often), those cubes are gonna use more fuel and make it impractical as a commuter. I think that a 341 stroker is probably a better compromise (302 bored .030 over with a 3.400-3.425 stroke). Jimford- Told you not to let me influence you too much.lol (Wonder if he's even reading these posts anymore ?...)

 

Oh I read every one! But what should I do?? I think the 5.o stroker is a good idea. I will drive the car on weekends and some weeknights but not a daily commuter. I would like to keep up with my buddies 68 camaro. I know he has nitrous and a mildly build 350. Nothing special. Should I use efi or a carb? I like the old school look. But like the advantages of fuel injection. Only like a select few of the intakes for the efi 5.0's. I'm picky with looks because I'm an artist. The numbers you guys are throwing out are confusing. Thats why I like doing dirtbike and atv engines. I know how card engines work but putting one together makes me nervous. Seems like there is a very small margain for error. Thank you guys! But hopefully the posts will keep comin, your helpin me out a lot!!!

 

By now the earlier responses should make a little more sense to you. We've really only brushed the surface on the possibilities of different motors and different ways to build them. It's easy to get confused, and even easier to make the wrong choices in parts or platforms if you are not clear in what you are looking for in the end product. There is no magic motor that will do it all. The most important thing is to balance the components in whichever motor you decide on. For the best results the heads, cam, intake and exhaust should be sized to work together. As far as versatility, the latest EFI motors are the closest thing to a magic motor, but I'm an artist too, and I'd have to weld the hood shut if I stuck on of those butt-ugly motors in an old school 66. A slightly built-up 302 stroker with a 100hp shot of nitrous would easily keep up with your buddies Camaro and the built-up 351w stroker on juice would probably wax his butt, (and maybe twist your frame). I think you should go back to the beginning and read all these threads over once more and get the book I recommended and maybe one or 2 more, and then you'll be able to decide how to build a motor that will be exactly what you want, and you'll know what to expect out of it before you start. 100's of motors are built by just asking a buddy or a auto parts guy-what parts to buy and what machine work to do, and most of them are really decent motors, but the best motors with the happiest owners are "built" on paper with a plan that best suits the needs of the owner before the first part is purchased. Being that you have done all the work on the small engines and are an artist, I think you will derive the greatest pleasure in the final product by making the most decisions for yourself, and one book will have 1000 times the info you can get here, and in 2 hours you'll feel knowledgeable instead of confused. Then the opinions you get here will be more meaningful. And then you 'll be asking questions like "would an Edelbrock performer RPM or Victor Jr. manifold work better with..." and someone could give you a meaningful answer.