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Question about Cab lights

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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 05:56 PM
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Question about Cab lights

I am going to install cab lights in my 01 X and I was wondering in both sets of instructions I have read call for a know out tool.
http://www.emotoman.com/f250/lights/f250lights.htm
http://webpages.charter.net/fixxor/newsite/
I have found a knock out tool here
http://www.drillspot.com/products/60...Knockout_Punch
But I don't know how it works. Does it conect to a drill
Any help would be great
Thanks
 
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 07:03 PM
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knock out tool works as follows. normally used by electricians. drill a pilot hole, put the top half through the hole, thread the bottom half to the top, tighten the bolt on the top and it will cut a hole through the metal when tightening.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 07:08 PM
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Just get a step-drill bit that goes up to 1 1/8" - that's all I used to do mine. No need to mess with a knock out tool if you haven't used one before. As I understand it, knock outs are easy to use - no need for a drill, just a wrench or ratchet. You probably won't need it again, may as well get a step-drill bit as you'll probably find more uses for it in the future.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 08:19 PM
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Can I get a step drill bit at home depot
 
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 08:40 PM
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Yes you should be able to get one from home depot if they are not in with the other drill bits look in the electrical section step bits are used in electrical work alot as well.

Edit they look kinda like a christmas tree just in case you don't know what one is.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 09:16 PM
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when you drill out the holws, put a large sheet inside the cb to catch all the crap,,,sure beats trying to vacumn it.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 10:27 PM
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Nick, Just did my cab lights yesterday. Did you get the Pacer kit or the Ford kit.

I did the Pacer high five Kit, and found it easier to just use a 5/8 drill bit (that was very sharp) to do my wiring hole. also found it easier to use some 1" self tapping sheet metal screws instead of the supplied screws. I did not completely drop my head liner, I found it easier to just undo all the front stuff, and put a couple of styrofoam blocks between the roof and head liner.

measurements are
3.5 inches back from the winshield rubber to front of light base. Hint: use a 3foot carpenters levelfrom the bottom of the winshield to the top centered over your rearview mirror mount to find the center of the truck. after the first light is mounted mounted , measure 8" from the center of the front of that base to the center of the front of the next base. the outer most light will be 13 inches on center in the front, and 12 7/8 on center on the back side of the light.


12 7/8------- ---8--- ---8--- --------- 12 7/8
(5)---13----(4)--8--(1)--8--(2)---13---(3)

3.5" ^ from top of windshield rubber to front of light base.


Do not be afraid of silicone it is your friend.
 

Last edited by bdrummonds; Dec 30, 2007 at 10:29 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 11:23 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. So from what I have learned so far is that I should use a 5/8 drill bit instead of using the step drill bit right. The 5/8 is enough to let the plug go threw the roof
Thanks
 
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by weekendwarriorfsw32
Thanks for the help guys. So from what I have learned so far is that I should use a 5/8 drill bit instead of using the step drill bit right. The 5/8 is enough to let the plug go threw the roof
Thanks
Unless you have the Ford factory clearance lights, then you need to go up to almost 1". I would get the step drill off of ebay as they are much cheaper than Home Depot and this is probably the cheapest option if you are using factory ford clearancel ights.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 07:54 AM
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Home Depot has the 7/8" step drill bit for ~ $34. Brand name "Greenlee". You'll find it in electrical supplies. It works well but does generate a lot of metal shavings. There are a couple of good threads that describe the process with great pictures. I read them all before I tackled mine. As WWW said, 5/8" hole isn't big enough if you're installing the OEM lights. The light base plug is 7/8".

Did the shop get your '04 Ex straightened out?
 
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 08:15 AM
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The knockout (I used Greenlee) leave the cleanest holes and are the easiest to control, but are not real cheap. They look like this:



Drill a small hole, the punch goes on one side, the die on the other, then just tighten the bolt.

The unidrill is also a great choice, but make sure the tip of it stays sharp or the drill will skip away from where you want to drill.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Grey 250s
Home Depot has the 7/8" step drill bit for ~ $34. Brand name "Greenlee". You'll find it in electrical supplies. It works well but does generate a lot of metal shavings. There are a couple of good threads that describe the process with great pictures. I read them all before I tackled mine. As WWW said, 5/8" hole isn't big enough if you're installing the OEM lights. The light base plug is 7/8".

Did the shop get your '04 Ex straightened out?
Yah the 04 is back and better than ever. I got a Enhart hitch witch is good up to 20,000 lb
 
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by redford
The knockout (I used Greenlee) leave the cleanest holes and are the easiest to control, but are not real cheap. They look like this:



Drill a small hole, the punch goes on one side, the die on the other, then just tighten the bolt.

The unidrill is also a great choice, but make sure the tip of it stays sharp or the drill will skip away from where you want to drill.
Question where did you buy your knock out tool
 
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 03:50 PM
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Mine were purchased at a specialty telecommunications/electrician shop (Graybar) but they can be purchased online or at electrical supply stores.

EDIT: You can also get them at plumbing supply stores. Plumbers use them to put holes in stainless steel sinks for faucets.
 

Last edited by redford; Dec 31, 2007 at 03:55 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 03:55 PM
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But the home depot would not have a tool like that
 
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