When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I recently have had charging problems. The battery cables were corroded and as a rusult, ruined the alternator. I changed out the alternator the glow plug relay and installed the new battery cable harness for both batteries. Everything was going great. I went out one morning to start it up and got the click click click deal. I thoutht the batteries were too low to crank the motor so I charge them for a day and a half the had them tested. 12.7 volts and 800 cranking amps. I pulled the starter and had it tested it tested fine. I replaced the starter realy and tested the continuity of the wire from the starter realy to the starter motor. I did get the motor to crank briefly by shorting the two terminals on the starter relay. but that is about it. Iam out of ideas is there any trouble shooting that Iam missing or could it still be in the starter??? there is good voltage to the starter solenoid.. Helppppp
Thanks for the repy guys, I thought It may be the batteries as well. Not sure how much current the starter really needs to turn the motor. I took the batteries to NAPA and again down the street to auto zone and again to Shucks just so I could get a good random sample. Shucks did say that they tested at 750 amps and needed a charge. the other two said they were at 800. To tell you the truth Hussler Iam not sure how they can really load test a battery with a hand held device. Do the batteries need to be at or above 800 amps to turn the motor because I did get the motor to turn a couple of times.
the batteries are new but, I did have the charging problem which left them dead and limping along until I figured out the problem. Sorry for the redundancey Iam just trying to rule out all possibilities before shelling out for new batteries.
this is just food for thought. Do you are can you get a big battery charger? try it with the batterys and see what happens. My truck would have to be jumped off if it set for over a day. Get it to crank drive it to the battery shop pull out the old snap on load tester and it would test good. this went on untile i finally unhooked the batterys from the truck and let it set ,guess what would not crank over . One had a shorted plate that would pull them both down over a period of time. As long as it was being driven around it would crank over fast like nothing wrong . I thought and Batt. guy thought that thay was somthing in the truck running it down , but not the case. They was NAPA comercial grade and 21 monthes old and it took like a month of trying stuff to find. hope this helps Phillip
Ok, do this before investing lots of money .. put your volt meter on the battery side of the starter solenoid and have someone crank, then on the starter side. Probably the same .. right. Then do the same at the battery + using the same ground. What's the reading on all three ??? This will eliminate possible battery cable problems. Always use the battery negitive post - for ground for this test. Post the results.
Thanks Hussler,
just to make sure we are on the same page Iam not sure on the second test,
Step one. volt meter negative lead on the negative- post of the battery. positive lead + on the starter relay post feeding to the starter motor.
step two. volt meter negative lead on the negative- post of the battery. Positive lead + not sure where
step three. volt meter negative lead on the negative- post of the battery. Positive lead + on positive post of the battery