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is your intake plastic? they are very well known to leak and warp. stick a vac. gauge on it and watch it for a while. redo your compression test and add a leak down test to check your rings and valves for leakage.
compression wise if you don't have a leak down tester. add about a teaspone of motor oil to the lowest cylinders. if it comes back up you have abd rings,if it dosn't time to start loking at pulling the heads off.
motor wise right now, i would use a factory motor craft motor, due to it's dealer back up and 75 k, 3 year warrenty . if installed by the motorcarft book useing the extra parts they say to use. if it fails they pay the dealer to repair it. you don't loose .
forgot. mine always had a small puff of white on start up. it's from the water build up in the cats and mufflers that builds up normally. now if it's antifreeze you sure will smell it in the exhaust big time
UPDATE we ran some more test and found no.4 and no.5 were missfiring no.4 is were the blown plug was just found out about no.5. The smoke and oil useage is coming from a vacuum problem which we still are working on. We also found out thats why the engine shut down when I took off the oil filler cap. The engine is the vacuum you can take off the oil cap and it has a constant vacuum enough to shut down the engine if you remove it to fast. We ran some test on the intake but didn't find a leak. Any ideas on the vacuum problem would be great. Thanks in advance!
If you remove your filler cap too quickly, it kills your engine. If I remove my filler cap, there is no operational difference. Mine's a 2005 and is running great. Yours displays an apparent vacuum at the filler cap opening, mine doesn't.
I wonder if maybe you have a plugged PCV valve, which is permitting the vacuum to build up, in the process sucking oil into the engine. Anyway, try replacing the pcv.
It would also be good to hear from someone else as to whether removing the oil filler cap kills their engine?
PCV is constantly flowing, the other valve cover vents to the intake tubing after the MAF and before the throttle body. The air is metered, so the computer knows about it. If you open the oil filler, I guess it would cause some surging but if it totally dies, I'd think that's the IAC not working well if at all. But I might be wrong on that.
Anyway, opening the filler cap, you shouldn't have a constant vacuum that you can feel with your hand.
The PCV valve, where is it connected to? And on the other valve cover, where is the breather connected to (rubber hose should go from the valve cover to the intake tube near the throttle body).
Yea we are all at a loss for word trying to figure it out we checked the pvc and it rattled like it was ok but it also has a huge vacuum on it. We cleared the codes and the engine light just showed backup this afternoon. I have not had time to run the codes again. I've got a buddy that has more than a hand held reader he has the real deal can't wait to see what it says. That will be next week he is booked solid till then. I'll keep you up to date. Thanks again for the input. Also I pulled the vacuum line off the other side and the little line going to the valve cover made a differance but I pulled off the big line on that side and it shut the truck down. This all started after it blew the plug never had any trouble till then. I still love my old truck!
I agree with Krew on this. The IAC valve might be bad but also check or replace the little rubber elbows in that area. They split and go bad underneath where you cant see.
I've been thinking about this, and I think I took something wrong somewhere...
The PCV is supposed to have heavy vacuum on it - it's full manifold vacuum.
So, it's feeding the engine a lot of air - now, the other valve cover is hooked to the intake tubing AFTER the MAF (mass air-flow sensor) so the computer knows exactly how much air the PCV is sucking, AND how much is going through the throttle body, AND how much air the IAC is feeding past the throttle plate.
When you open the oil filler, you are bypassing the MAF for all that air going through the PCV valve. That'll make the engine run rough (lean because the computer thinks less air is getting into the engine so it reduces fuel), and even stall.
If the PCV valve is old, change it - it might not be doing the "right thing" although I think the right thing is to protect the engine gaskets from an intake backfire. Maybe it's stuck totally open and doesn't limit the flow at high vacuum?
just a thought here guy. it's possible that when you cut the threads for the insert, some of that metal got into the cylinder. then when you started it up after the repair some of that metal got thrown up against a valve and bent it.
weather it's a intake or exhaust you have a problem with a it's time to pull the head for a closer inspection. unless you can access a bore scope and get a look down those 2 holes .
you state when pulling off the oil filler cap it stalls. also that you have a missfire and codes.
only my personal feeling here. but after working in dealerships for well over 40 years .it's something i have seen and truthfully caused myself. when installing a plug insert and not useing grease on the tap to hold most of them then not useing a vac. cleaner and hoses small enough to get down the plug hole.
my gut feeling is those fileings have bent a valve. most likely a exhaust as when the intake valve opens you would have a very large vac.leak. big enough to stall the engine from a over lean mixture.
That would explain all the problems and could cause the misfire on that cylinder sounds like we may be pulling a head. That raises another question can you pull the head without pulling the engine. I know that sounds crazy but it looks like it almost impossible the way its packed in there. Thanks for the answer it does fit almost everything thats wrong. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Before pulling the head, take off the valve cover, rotate the engine so that both valves are (should) be completely closed, and do a leak-down test. If the pressure bleeds off real fast, you have a bent (or pitted) valve or it's stuck slightly open because there's debris stuck under the valve from the insert work. Or something else like a cracked piston.
I guess the idea that you have a lot of vacuum in the crankcase can eliminate the possibility that you have a cracked piston