For both woodworking and a bit of auto/metalwork, what's good choice for a hvlp system?

At the WW shows, Apollo has a $1000 system they tout as good for about any job.

I figure to shop ebay, craigslist, etc and I'm in no big hurry...

 

Since you are referring to a "system" it sounds as if you might be talking about a turbine HVLP system. These systems are really kind of outdated now.

Why do you want HVLP? HVLP is required by law for certain situations in certain localities. If you are not required by law, you would be better off spending that $1000 on a good compressor and a good conventional paint gun that you could use for your auto as well as woodworking needs.

 

HVLP systems are fine for painting, especially since you don't have to worry about moisture problems, but, that's all you can do with them, you can't run any tools with them. I use a Capspray 8100 HVLP on a daily basis refinising tubs and countertops, been using it for about a year now without a problem, bought mine on ebay for $250. New, what a deal I got, they sell new in the paint stores around the $800.00 range. Last week I painted my daughters car with it and it came out just as good as when I paint with my conventional compressor set up.

 

I have a 5hp, 25 gal, Craftsman oil-less compressor for nailers, etc.

The folks at the woodworking show make it sound like hvlp is best done with a turbine - 4 stage. Are you suggesting here that either hvlp is not superior to conventional? or that an hvlp conversion gun is as good or better than hvlp gun w/ turbine?

HVLP is argued to have much better efficiency, but I'm not an expert, so please educate me. I've just been leary to try a conversion gun hearing so much that I won't be happy with it.

For WW, I'm probably going to want a pressurized can, and not gravity feed. For WW, I need to the gun to be maneuverable.

 

This is one of those threads where I ask folks why they do not put their location in their profile so we know where you are located. If you are afraid that one of us will track you down and steal your truck then put a vague location, such as North East Texas.

The reason I would like to know your location is because HVLP is required by law in certain localities. If you are not required by law to use HVLP, then you have more options.

Yes, the advantage of HVLP is that it will put more paint on the surface and less in the air. This obviously saves you paint dollars. Paint cost is determined by color. If you are shooting an expensive color like bright red, then the extra expense that will be incurred by the purchase of an HVLP paint system or compressor large enough to run an HVLP gun can be recooped in just a few paint jobs. If you are only shooting a small area or only one paint job every year or two, then the added expense is hard to justify unless required by law.

Actually there are MANY people who believe that a good conventional gun will atomize the paint better due to the added pressure breaking up the liquid into smaller droplets.

Also, there are some modern reduced pressure or compliant conventional guns that are as efficient as HVLP.

To run a good HVLP gun, you will have to have a compressor that can EASILY and CONSTANTLY supply 15CFM. You also will need at least 60 gallon of reserve. A good conventional gun can get by on much less.

The turbine systems are rarely used for automotive work. If you need maneuverability, then you have a large selection of guns, both conventional and HVLP, that are available pressure fed so that you can have the paint in a pot instead of in a cup over or under the gun itself. As long as you don't have to invert the gun, however, there are many guns that are very maneuverable. I have a drip free cup on my Sharpe 775 suction feed that I have used almost upside down for a very quick blast.

Hope this helps,

 

Personally I prefer the tubine hvlp because of portability and there's absolutley no moisture problems. With conventional air compressors as we all know there's always going to be moisture problems unless you have a good system to remove water and or oil. I can spray just as slick with my turbine hvlp as i can with my in shop conventional compressor.

 

Doc - thanks, good info.. I'm in Colorado, just north of Denver, but may be moving to NE KS shortly. Since it sounds like my compressor is really not adequate (5 hp, 25 gal, 9 SCFM at 40psi, 7 SCFM at 90 psi), I'm probably looking at a turbine system.

BarryMc - good points.. and I think I agree.. I may want to haul my system indoors to spray some latex.. or to a neighbors, etc. Lugging even my 25 gal compressor would make it less appealing.

So if most agree.. a hvlp w/ turbine is best for me.. then what at my options? Apollo touts their $1000 system at the WW shows. I was hoping to maybe pick up a used model for $500-$600 and some other brand is fine so long as it's one of the better ones.

 

One note you may have over looked.

Play close attention to fan pattern size. If you try to paint a large surface with a gun that only sprays a 4-5" fan, you will probably have tiger strip pattern. I would recommend a min of 7". Most all of my guns have 9" pattern. The larger pattern you can spray the less work you have to do, less time.

Automotive paints can have high solids, when make them harder to spray then wood finishes. When you get your system or guns make sure you can get different fluid tips/air caps. You will use the smaller tips for clear coats and wood finishes. Where you will need the larger ones for basecoats, and some epoxy/urathane paints. All ways read the tech sheets for the paint you are spraying. The will tell you what fluid tips to use.

I do recommend going with a HVLP gun, 70-90% eff. What I have noticed is that painters that started with a std gun have problems switching over to HVLP. The setup is the same but the speed can be very different. But if you spray strictly by watching the wet line (like you should) you will have no problems if the gun is setup properly. I like pressure pot systems, due to consistant paint delivery, can spray any direction, and cause less fatigue. Just a PITA to clean.

Oil less compressors are not designed for continues service. You will burn them up. They make gasoline 7hp comp w/20 gal tanks if you need portable. They deliver in the range of 17+cfm at 90psi. What you will run into with small tanks is heat. The gas gets heated up and does not have time cool down like larger tank systems. This hot air can cause paint to flash before it hits the surface.

 

blue68,

I understand perfectly what you are saying about following the wet line. I don't think I would have any trouble switching to HVLP because that is the way I was taught to paint. It's sort of like learning to run a weld bead or ride a bicycle.

 

So HVLP w/ Turbine is my preference. Any thoughts on makes and models?

 

I am a bathtub refinisher and use capspray 9100. It is a 4 stage unit and does an excellent job atomizing You can buy a unit on ebay 400-600. Item number: 140193434225 on ebay right now. A very good upgrade is to add 3m's pps system to it. Google 3m pps system.
Like anything there is a learning curve.
good Luck

Mike

 

I see that capspray 9100 on ebay.. does not look to be well cared for.. but I'll keep looking..

 

What gun do you use with the 3m system and the capspray 9100?

 

I think capspray only offers one gun and it is a non bleeder gun. This means without pulling the trigger on the gun no air flows out through the air cap. A bleeder gun has air flowing through the gun all the time.
To use a capspray gun you remove the feed tube at the gun. Install the proper adapter from 3m to the gun. Purchase a HVLP cup system and you will never ever go back to the old system.

Mike

 

-I think I'll try it. Thanks