How can trucks be so expensive and perscription drugs be so cheap?


Even in the US I think that the price for the F450 inflated by $20K. Most of the truck is made overseas and shipped to the US for assembly.

 

When I went looking to pull my toyhauler, the only truck that I felt comfortable to tow within the "ratings" of the truck was the F350 tow boss, mine is rated at 26000 pounds GCVW.

The 450 is a puller, ordered right, with 4.88s the beast will pull 31000 GCVW! That should be good for that full throttle!

I bought mine in June of 06, its a Lariat 4X4 with everything but the FX4 package and paid 46000 down from 55! I thought that was high!

 

It doesn't make a bit of difference if you have ABS or whatever, or THINK it pulls and stops ok. If you're in fact THAT much over weight, no re-gearing or tuning will make it legal OR safe!!!! I know here in PA, DOT has been cracking down hard on towing safety, weights, etc. There recently was an accident where somebody was towing one of those huge brush chippers behind a truck, with no safety chains or breakaway switch. It came unhooked and slammed head on into a minivan, killing a father and I believe three of his four children. The driver of the truck with the chipper is now in jail. Very tragic story, but it could happen anywhere, to anyone. So now DOT is on the lookout for ANYTHING. Inspections, improper load binding, you name it!! I recently got pulled over while towing my tractor down a back road. Checked out ok, but he checked everything but my prostate. I did get a warning on some non-safety related stuff.

Just imagine if you were to get in an accident say someone pulls out in front of you, and someone got injured or killed. You didn't cause it, but you would be totally F'D if you were that much overweight!!!!

It just seems that the manufacturers keep making these trucks "Rated" to do more and more just to "one-up" the competition. I think this leaves too many people with a "my truck can pull anything" attitude. It just blows me away to see what people are claiming to tow with their trucks "all the time."

 

Sounds like you need to find a good diesel dealer and get that truck checked out. EGR cooler or oil cooler can cause driveablity issues and sounds like your truck is down on power. The 6.0 doesn't know if its in a 250,350 or 450 and should be able to tow that trailer fine. T/H is great and you need to be using it when pulling that trailer . Look into a set of good gauges and get a trans temp one. The factory ones won't show a problem to its too late. You will be surprised at what a good running stock 6.0 will tow without a problem.

 

Aman to that!! If everyone could have a great running 6.0 the world would be an extremely content place because when these motors are good they are very impressive

 

Air bags they run about 300.00 and cake to install

also add a ring gear 4.10 but id go 4.30 if i didnt have the 4.10 in my 03DRW

and that trailer should be no problem ive pulled a gooseneck heavier than that thousands of miles

 

The leak has returned in either the T/H or STD modes. The leak seems to be intermitant, when it leaks it poors major amounts of fluid. I can say with confidence that the leak is not in either cooler lines on the right side. (leak is on right side of tranny) I checked and tightend the black wire harness located just down from the filler tube.

The leak is not the gasket as the trans housing that the pan bolts to is wet.

Could there be a fitting on the top rear part of the transmision?

Does anyone have a diagram of the torqueshift tranny common on the '03 F350?

I do not know if there is a corelation, but I changed the both filters internal and external and replaced the fluid with MERCON SP from the dealership.

The leak did not start until the second time I towed the RV.

Could there be a crack in the rear housing causing fluid to leak? (I just have to ask this one)

 

Sounds like it may be comming from the vent as its pointed to the right . If its major amounts like you say that would be my bet and does this only when towing. The first thing to do is get an after market trans temp gauge installed. Then you will know for sure and will be able to keep an eye on yout trans temp at all times. Trust me this is something you want of you do any kind of towing. I went thru two trannys in my 01 Superduty before someone told me to get the gauge. Heat is the number one killer of an automatic trans and the first sign that its hot it will puke fluid out the vent. If you can't do this yourself have someone look at this before it gets real expensive if ignored to long.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

Hi Firesoutmatt,

Thanks for the advice, I will certainly install a temp guage for my tranny. Will this vent on the tranny also pass excessive trans fluid if there is too much in it? When I replaced my fluid I used the trans dip stick to indicate the full level. When looking at the stick, the fluid level is at the top of the "hot" guage. This was set while the engine was running at normal temp. I am not sure what the transmission temp was at the time.
I bought the truck used and checking the transmission fluid level the dip stick showed half way on the "cold' guage.
It may be possible that my trasmission is overfilled. I put 10qts after droping the pan to replace the filter as well as the in-line filter. Since this was the first Torqshift transmission I ever serviced I am uncertain exactly how much fluid to use when doing a filter change.

 

i change mine every 30,000 internal every other change and always 8 qts come out and i put 8 qts back in 100,800 miles and still tows strong


but iam telling you airbags night and day get the ones rated for 5,000LBS cake to install

 

Would you get the air bags that come with a compressor? Is it worth the extra money? Also when concidering the compressor system, should each air bag be independantly regulated or both air bags on a common line to match air pressure?

The aire bags that do use an on-board compressor seem to be like the old Gabrial air shocks I used to run on my old Plymouth Duster. Run 2 air hose connections at the rear to inflate. Only need to make sure the compressor used can supply the high pressure needed to pump up the air bags.

 

Most the airbags only hold max of 150psi.. A decent size compressor would be fine.. Most use an air tank setup for it, course they tie in horns and other gadgets.. However for just rear bags you could get a good high duty cycle compressor to supply the lines..

 

I have Airlift bags with a gauge and Airlift compressor. Both airbags are on the same air line circuit. Having the gauge is the most important part in cab in my opinion. ~Brad

 

Nice.. we got Firestone setup that runs two separate lines to each bag.. Has a dual need gauge and two pnumatic switches..

 

I have had Air Lift bags with Air Lift Sureset and they work great! The setup has short runs of hose with mostly wire/servo control and it maintains a minimum pressure which satisfies airlifts lifetime warrenty.

http://www.suspension.com/airlift7.htm