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I've read a number of posts regarding "no start" conditions but none fit exactly my situation. Here are the gory details:
1. Started her in the garage this morning to warm up. Startups have taken 8 engine revolutions since I bought her a year ago.
2. After 10min warmup, I go to the garage and it smells like something electrical burning.
3. Shut off. Check under hood but it's 5AM, I can't see squat, and need to get going. She restarts fine and off I go.
4. Dash lights dimmer than normal for entire 36mile drive, but no problems driving.
5. Tried using the sprayers to clean windshield but no fluid sprayed; wipers worked fine though.
6. Battery indicator stayed lit for the entire drive.
So I get to work, shut her off, and she restarts just fine again. I lift the hood and the built-in work light doesn't work. I decided to unhook the batteries and let the ECU reset. What that would accomplish I'm not sure, I just figured "what the heck".
So, hook the batteries back up after about an hour and now she cranks but won't fire. WTS light works, oil pressure looks to be building, and tach moves when cranking, but that's it. I wore down the batteries with the cranking (I think they were getting weak anyway) so I bought 2 new Duralasts from WalMart.
Still won't start. Lot's of white smoke out the tail though, so it *seems* like it's getting fuel. at least some anyway - the fuel pump seems to be doing it's job since I hear it running. Fuel is about 1/4 tank.
Here's what I did find (will update with pics in the morning):
The wire for the AIH is melted & the end with the integrated nut seems to have welded itself to the other wire.
I don't think it's the fuel bowl heater since I'm getting the WTS light & RPMs on the tach. I have not checked all fuses because I'm at work in Cheyenne and she's outside where it's VERY cold.
Any thoughts? There are 2 relays on the passenger side of the fuel bowl. Which one does what?
I have some tools with me but did not check oil level in the HPOP. Speaking of oil level, the engine oil was low so I bought 2 quarts to help bring it up (Rotella 15w40) but did not recheck the level yet. Also, coolant is a bit low too, but would that cause a no-start?
Thanks in advance for everyone's help. I'm in serious need of it!
Last edited by papadelogan; Dec 26, 2007 at 08:40 PM.
Reason: More complete info
well first unhook the AIH from the relay, wont hurt anything, just to be sure,
the relay close to the firewall is GPR and the other one is AIH,
do you get any smoke while cranking for a while?
A few quick questions. What size batteries did you buy in terms of CCA?
I'm confused about your AIH question. If the wire is melted on the AIH relay, then the other relay is your GPR. Do you still need to know which one is which?
You can probably get buy without the AIH but I'd have to do some digging. Have you checked for blown fuses? Melted wires is never a good sign.
The relay in front is the AIH relay. Disable it for now by disconnecting the lead from the other side of the relay that is connected to the battery. Done with that for now.
With that white smoke, and new batteries, I would jump the GP relay for 2 minutes using a screwdriver or other suitable thing like a jumper cable. It ought to light off then since the white smoke seems to indicate fuel presence.
Edit: crap, I need to hit refresh before posting and stop multitasking, lol. Tighten up that V clamp to the DP too, like you didn't know that.
Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; Dec 26, 2007 at 08:47 PM.
well bad GPR will get you no start in very cold day,
and like Chris said you might have to chase those electrical gremlins, and blown fuses, that melted AIH might have blown a fuse for somthing.
I'm going to try jumping the GPR tomorrow after double-checking my oil level.
F350-6 -- Batteries are 850CCA/1000CA Duralast Gold's. And yeah, I guess I should know which relay is which... it was cold and I was rushing - but you're 100% right. Thanks!
I wonder if somewhere local carries that monster Stancor GPR that Guzzle used.... not likely...grrrrr...
I'm hoping it's the GPR and I'll try that in the morning. If it turns out to be a bad GPR AND glow plugs.... I'm in a pickle I think, given the temps coming my way....
How are your battery terminals TO GROUND, to the frame? With the charge indicator on im thinkin that low battery might be the biggest problem. Check your alternator connections and batteries to ground and make sure they are clean and tight. Just a thought.
How are your battery terminals TO GROUND, to the frame? With the charge indicator on im thinkin that low battery might be the biggest problem. Check your alternator connections and batteries to ground and make sure they are clean and tight. Just a thought.
I think they could use a good cleaning - it can't hurt, right? Maybe pick up some Vaseline too, but I've never done that one before. Just to be sure, should I:
1. Clean the battery terminals & cable ends first
2. Bolt everything together
3. Finally coat with Vaseline/similar
I'll check the grounds too. Walmart list of parts is growing, but still cheaper than a dealer checkup! Thanks all!
Ya clean everything then bolt everything back together, i wouldnt worry too much about the vaseline until you get the situation fixed then buy some battery rated sealant of some kind i dont think vaseline will hold up long. Just make sure you follow those wires down to where they bolt to the frame and make sure they are clean and tight also not just on the batteries good luck keep us posted
Oh and make sure to check all your fuses, and flip flop the relays up front if you have to, to check if they are bad, just remmember where they came from once you get her fired up.
Thanks all. I'll be at work at 5AM tomorrow, but will be taking early, long (but not too long I hope!!) lunch to try getting her fired.
Does anyone know of a chain or good search words to find a local store that might carry/get the Stancor? If i do need to replace the GPR I'd rather just get the monster first.
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