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I finally got my steering build done. Thought I would share my thoughts and pics with you all.
The conversion was fairly easy once I had the correct parts (which were tough to find!) The control valve was pretty easy to rebuild, as only the o-rings needed to be replaced. The steering lines came from Rockauto, they are Gates lines. I think they are pretty good quality, but were a little tough to mount up. Had to bend them a little in certain places, but they worked. Brackets for pump bolted up easily, pump pulley from salvage yard was in good shape. Used Type-F fluid, Took about a quart and a half from what I can tell. Might need more after I drive it a bit. I am impressed with how quiet the system is. Even at the steering limit, the pump only becomes a bit louder, no squeal.
I can honestly say, I am a bit disappointed in the amount of assist that the system provides. It is definently easier to turn, but I had imagined turning the wheel with the truck standing still with little to no effort. Some feedback from those of you with this system would be great. I don't know if there is a way of increasing the pressure from the pump. Was also wondering about putting a heavier spring in the bypass that is in the control valve.
so why did you bother with this setup at all? i would think running a 78+ box, pump and going crossover steering would be far better. this power assist just doesnt cut it even when rebuilt
when this system is working properly, nothing beats it. the key part is "working properly". if it is, you can spin the wheele with your pinky finger at a dead stop with a plow lifted. nothing beats this system when its working!
Well, the reason I went to this system is because this pickup only has 8300 original miles on it and I wanted to stay stock. (or as close to stock as possible) I actually thought I would get more "assist" than I am getting.
77f2504by4,..you say you should be able to spin with one finger. Have you ever rebuilt any of your system. Maybe my pump is not putting out enough pressure?
i replaced the entire system, pump lines power cylander and control valve. you have to totally bleed all the air out. but once it is done it should be very powerfull.
Just my two cents here but, I agree with 77f2504by4, I wasn't used to this kind of setup and I had to keep looking out the window at the position of the wheels, because it was so effortless. It doesn't take anything at all, with mine, it just feels like your'e turning the steering wheel with nothing connected.
Ok, thanks for that input. I was hoping somebody would chime in with some suggestions. Do your rigs have the Garrison or Bendix valve. Maybe that is a difference in the two types? Maybe I still have some air in the system? What about the relief valve in control valve, would changing that spring do anything?
Take a look at my gallery and see if anything looks different than what you guys are running.
i have the bendix system... it sounds like there is still air in the lines. when i replaced the lines in mine it worked ok, then the next morning the pump was wining like crazy. i added about 1 more quart and it was fine after that.
i have the bendix system... it sounds like there is still air in the lines. when i replaced the lines in mine it worked ok, then the next morning the pump was wining like crazy. i added about 1 more quart and it was fine after that.
yeah, but thats just ford power steering. one thing to check, if the pump is rebuilt, especially if its an A1 Cardone, check the pressure line fitting on the back. i had to swap my pump 5 times before i got a good one that didnt leak from the pressure fitting. when they grind it down to resurface it, they do a horrible job. mine was weaping fluid. and that caused the fluid to foam up and trap air.
was the power cylander rebuilt? does it leak? its possible that its leaking internally causing the cylander to not push with full force. just some food for thought...
Yeah, they cut the cylinder in two and replaced the internal packing. (Or at least that is what they told me they did) I know they replaced the cylinder ram, I could tell that right away when I got the cylinder back.
I will drive it some more, and if it doesn't improve, I might have to do a system pressure test. (only problem is, I don't know what the pressures should be!!) Any Ford techs listening?????
Nice pics. I'm thinking about changing my '75 F-250 SC to power so wife won't think it's like driving a tank. I don't mind it. IF it's like the '64 wagon we had @ 1 time, the power steer is light to the touch, like mentioned - playing on a frozen lake ( 2' thick) or iced-over parking lot is a BUNCH of fun.
I feel the updated setup from 78-79 is far better and allows you to run a crossover setup. My uncle has the bendix on his 75 f250/350 CC 4wd and cant locate parts for the steering. and the parts he does get arnt the correct length. the drag link joints wear out really fast on his, hes only running 33" tires as well.
his truck is different though because its running on a low pinnion D60 up front. this was a fleet truck a long time ago for a longing company and came from the factory this way.
so our plans are to get new front springs that are taller, get a newer box and run a cross over setup with chevy tierods more then likely.