So this morning my truck will not start. It's -8 deg C here, which is 17 deg F. I let the command start try first, won't start. So I go out to the truck, give it lots of time for glow plugs, and then try. It sounds like it fires once, then drops off, if I watch the RPM on the AIC, it fires around 180-190 rpm, then drops to about 150 and cranks there. After 6 or so tries, with it, the RPMs are dropping to about 110 while cranking, so I'm sure the batteries are giving out.

So is this just a case of needing new batteries, need more RPM for the HPOP?

The strange thing is, about a month ago, maybe 6 weeks, it was about -20C here, or -4F, and it started without being plugged in.

Anyway, just want to hear your thoughts.

 

I just went through issues with my son's truck. It was only 25-30 deg here in Georgia but the truck would not start and would eventually kill the batteries. A month ago I replaced both batteries and tried to skim $$$ for the 450cca batteries. The new batteries were still not enough to turn the truck over fast enough only in the cold. I replaced both with 850cca batteries yesterday and the truck fires right up during the cold temp.

I suspect I may still have some weak or non funtioning GP's but for now it will have to wait.

Here is what I have learned about cold weather starting problems.

1. The GPR can and does go bad and can be misleading even when you know what your checking. about 29.00 for a new one. It is located under the small plastic cover on the left side of the Canister that sits in the middle of the engine.
a. One quick elimination step is to take a screw driver and short across the two big terminal for about 30 seconds. If the glow plugs are functioning they will heat up and the truck will start immediately. If it does start, replace the relay. GPR109 is the cheapest and should work. The parts folks may call out a different # but ask for the GPR109
b. If the truck does not fire up still, the GP's are more than likely your problem. You have 9 wire harness attached to the inside of the valve covers. the 4 outer wires are
the GP pins (unplug harness and check at connector). The other 4 inside wires go to injectors. You should have less than 2 ohms ( 1.5 to 1.8) some folks read 600, 800 and infinite. Replace if you have over 2 ohms.

If you have it narrowed down to a cold weather situation, more than likely your problem lies in the above.

If it is more sparatic, you could have a cam position sensor bad which is easy and cheap to replace.

 

So you would suggest still changing the batteries first, and see what happens?

Where do I get the relay, from Ford, or somewhere like NAPA?

Also, where do you guys suggest batteries from? Would Walmart or Costco carry decent batteries, or should I go to an auto parts place?

 

I'd start with the batteries. I purchased two of the motorcraft, titanium for 85.00 at Advance Auto. Part # was 65-2. Make sure to replace both at one time. Also make sure they are charged. Low charge will eventually get your alternator (diode trio). Alternator new is around 150.00.


The GPR unit can be purchase at Napa ask for GPR109. If you buy one from
Advance Auto they are around 60.00. completely different part # though.

My truck is a 99 f250 7.3 4x4. Your truck may pull a different part# and price.

 

I agree, start w/batteries, if they aren't strong, nothing else will be.

 

I've found that in the 20 degree f. area and I have not bothered to plug in, if I cycle the glow plugs 3 or 4 times it will usually start. Much below that and you'd best plug it in.

 

It does sound like a GPR, but I agree that strong batteries are always a good idea. I got Diehards, because they're the most powerful I could find, I think around 900-1100 CCA, off the top of my head. My truck, an early 99 with no AIH, will start below zero without being plugged in, with only one cycle of the key.

 

It's been in the low 20's here at night this week and I haven't had to plug in at all. One cycle of the key and bam, she fire's right up.
I would ohm out the glow plugs and test the relay like Ga ford mentioned first before buying batteries. But idf they ohm out to spec, then your batteries may not be putting out enough juice.

 

I'm going to put some new batteries in later today, the ones in there are Ford factory, so they are 5 years old now anyway. See if that helps. If not, I guess a new GPR.

 

Diesel trucks require 180 rpm to successfully turn over a cold engine. When your truck is turning over, also check to see what kind of
rpm the gauge is showing. Should be 200 or better.

 

Well, I changed the batteries, no better. So I changed the GPR with a NAPA GPR110. Pretty sure that is it, when I was peeling the protective cover off of the hot terminal, the terminal broke right off of the relay.

The whole relay was so hot I could barely hold it...plastic melted all around the post...So I'm pretty sure it was done. Truck started fine this morning. Thanks for all your guys help!

 

In this day and age, here's an unusual POSITIVE customer service experience...

After reading this thread this afternoon, I thought maybe my truck wasn't starting easily in the mornings due to warn out batteries. So I popped the hood and noticed immediately that one of them looked really questionable. IE: a lot of fluid residue all over the top and corroded looking gunk on the tray. The other one was not as bad, but showed some of the same signs. They were Napa Legend 75's with an 18 month replacement warranty.

I couldn't find my receipt, but I thought I'd give the warranty a try since I was pretty sure I bought them within 18 months ago.

At the Napa store, the guy came outside and checked the punches on the batteries and sure enough, they were within the 18 month period. He pulled a couple of new ones for me and said to just bring the old ones back by once I'd exchanged them.

I still can't believe how easy that was! Saved me about $180.

 

SOme more props on the napa bateries. I had the same batteries but nobody had punched out the date so they pulled the battery looked at the mfg code and waranteed them to the tune of 72.00 for 2 replacement batteries. I have nothing but good thingsto say about them.


I am going through the same problem right now. the GP ohm out at 1.7 the GPR tests fine, I did find that the cord on my heater was bad but that won't help me at work. I need to figure this out.

 

Go with 2 new motorcraft batt. Just changed mine in a 2000. They were origional. Seem to be good ones. This should make it crank up where it should be. When I changed my batt it did the same thing on the first start. Thought something was wrong. I think they just needed to charge up a bit. No problem since. Cold weather must have good batteries.

 

just my two cents here, but before you replace the batteries, or even check them. pull of the cables, clean the connections, and try again, whether your testing, or just trying to start. please start there, you could save yourself labor, cost, gpr relay, ect....