I posted a question on the towing & trailer forum about 3 weeks ago about our fifties trucks are 76" high. I was looking for input about the door height needed for an enclosed trailer for the 51. Any thoughts or experiances along this line would be appreciated. I know I can have anything built but before I save my allowance for that I was wondering if anybody has done anything creative etc.Thanks in advance everyone ! ! !

 

If I may.

Why do you need an inclosed trailer?

 

Dick,
Ilive in two places, not at the same time, and in MI i donot have a garage. Plus Tranporting hundreds of miles I'm not comfortabe with open trailers. This truck has been in my family since new and has always been garaged. I would like to keep it in MI in the warmer weather but not sitting in the weather. Really just want to drive it more ! ! !

 

I hear you Garry.
Here in the frozen tundra with salt laying on every road that would be the only way I`d ever move one of mine if I had to before spring.
This is almost enough to make me want to move south into hurricane country....

 

Getting these things in and out of an enclosed trailer is somewhat akin to waltzing with a 900lb sow. It can be done, ya gotta go slow so nothing gets hurt, and ya only want to do it when absolutly necessary.

 

If you're having a trailer built for your truck you might want to upgrade a little. One of my hotrod buddies has a tailer that he uses for everything from custom choppers to custom cars and trucks. The trailer is pretty average except it has a side door that opens so you can open your truck or car door without the dings. also built in ramp in the side door for the coppers. He got lucky and found it used at a good price, but now that he has that option he wouldn't own a trailer without it. just my .02c

 

Beside the side door you need a front door to get to the front chocks and tie downs.

By the time you get all the add-ons to the original trailer you could build yourself a nice garage in MI and have it hauled back and forth each year (although is should be driven).

You should check with AXRacer he has and new enclosed trailed for his racer.

 

I hope you have deep pockets. First std door height is 75", so you'll need to order an overheight trailer. Next is capacity you'll need one rated at least 10% above weight of trailer and truck, likely 10K# which means HD double or a triple axle. Then you'll need a tow vehicle rated to tow that much weight and a matching hitch + brake controller. An enclosed trailer REALLY eats into the gas milege of the tow vehicle, and an overheight that much more, so you can figure 5-8mpg towing with a gas engine truck.
Side escape door is almost a necessity with a closed vehicle unless you are limber enough to climb thru a window or winch it in and out. (Winch and battery/charger +700.00) Then you need DOT approved tie down straps (must have spring loaded hooks + rated for weight) + 70- 100.00. If you and your wallet are still with us, I'd suggest a gooseneck or 5th wheel trailer rather than a tag along for this much weight and side wind resistance, even a mild side wind or passing trucks will cause swaying. If you are going this far then consider an all aluminum trailer to reduce gross towing weight. All said and done, your wallet is going to take a 12-20K hit just for the trailer.
Plus tow vehicle and fuel. You definitely could put up a metal or wood carport type building (no slab) cheaper, or rent a shipping container as a temp garage.

 

Should qualify my last comment. This summer I started to do some major work on the truck. The first in over twenty-five years. In the late 70's we had the engine overhauled at about 50,000 miles. Within a year or so a good friend ( with body shop )worked on the body. He stripped the paint, welded in patches, filled holes with lead ( thirty some pounds ) and painted it white. Was green originaly. This summer I ripped out the original bed. And the rest is like everyone else. As long as it is on jack stands I may as well do - - - - - - - - - - -. I am replacing the shocks, brakes, e-brake cabels etc,etc,etc. And while I have everything off I may as well rust bullet every piece of steel I can see and/or reach.

So when I am done this time I just want to drive it as much as I can before I turn it over to the kids or one of their kids. We rent in MI as the other half took a job here 4 1/2 years ago. Rent very reaonable and with the MI economy we have no desire to buy. I have looked into having a trailer built but was wondering if anyone had used a regular enclosed veicle trailer to haul a 76" tall truck with a creative way to grt it in and out with a 6' door. Thanks for all the comments so far.

Sorry I got long. My kids tell me I don't get out enough, lol.

 

Was replying yesterdays posts when yours came AX. Your info is great. Maybe I sould just spend more time in SC. It would probably be cheaper. But I was thinking after she retires we could travel to shows etc. Thats if we will be able to afford gas. lol

 

Why the aversion to open trailers? I've been using one for years and have never had any damage to the vehicles. You could get one with a wedge nose and even reduce the rist of chip damage even more, plus might even increase fuel economy.

 

You could reduce the 76" high problem by having a set of "Trailer" rims and tires for loading and unloading.
If you're going to use it for storage between trips to the DQ that could become a pain.

Decisions, decisions, ship the Truck to me, I'm good with this type of problem.

 

The problem becomes one because he want's to use the trailer as a mobile "garage" as well. Let me address a couple other problems with that idea while we're discussing it.
First unless you have a place to park the trailer where you can drive thru, a rather unusual situation with most driveways they tend to end in places that don't allow you to drive the tow vehicle off the end after dropping off the trailer, you'll need to back the trailer into it's parking space which put's the door at the wrong end to drive in and out of it. Next storing the truck in the trailer is going to put strains on it that it was not designed for. The tires are not going to like supporting the extra weight and will develop flat spots and dry rot of the sidewalls. You could jack up the trailer off the tires, but you would need to place the supports near where the springs attach to the frame, the rest of the chassis is not designed to support the weight and the trailer moves a surprising amount when you pull in and out so that would need to be addressed. You definitely wouldn't want to park the trailer on dirt or it will soon sink in. The constant weight will soon bow down the plywood (or OSB that many manufacturers are using now) floor where the truck wheels sit, giving a place for any water to collect and start rot.

 

Some really good thoughts guys. Ax you are close to what I was thinking. Had not thought about that problem of weight. The driveway in MI is 3 full trucks wide & 4 deep to the sidewalk, concrete all the way pitched so water does not sit. This why I am asking for thoughts and ideas.
Dick I would ship the truck to you but I come with it & I am high maintenance. lol The idea of smaller tires and rims is also a thought. Only requires time and I have plenty of that.

I appreciate any and all input ! ! !

 

Talk to Bill (the owner) at SLM Trailers, 6480 Whitmore Lk Rd (right off of US 23), Whitmore Lk Mi 48189. Phone 734-302-1177. www.slmtrailers.com

He is a hot rodder through and through. If anybody can give you the right answers he's the one. By the way we seem to be up in your area a couple times a month.

Have you seen a 54 f100 (black with silver flames) running around? It's a cover truck from one of the truck mags and I have seen him flying along the eway a couple of time headed in your direction. The truck was/is from the Lansing area

Anyway good luck

Chuck