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About 2 years ago I bought a 1979 ford parts truck. The guy said the 460 engine and transmission worked fine. Well today after school for some reason I started messin with it. The thing is it doesnt have a key. I checked the plugs and they were a whiteish color with no signs of it burning oil. I know you can jump over the selinoid to make the starter work but I was wondering how you should wire the distributer to make it fire. I was going to take a wire from the distributer straight to the battery, then just unplug it when i wanted the engine to die, but i dont which wire it is.
Connect a jumper lead from the +12 volt battery terminal to the + terminal on the coil. If that is a problem, the rear most small lead to the solenoid will work. Connect to the wire not the terminal.
which can be done with a short wire right at the starter relay.
Connect the power jumper wire to the connector that goes on the I terminal of the relay.
Fine for a temporary check.
Just don't run it very long as the 12v will burn up the coil on extended use.
I tried cranking the engine today.I ran a lead wire from the battery lug on the selinoid to the I terminal. Went to turn over the motor and it didn't have any spark. I connected the lead to the I terminal. Should I have spliced the jumper lead wire into the wire that goes on the I terminal?? Or maybe the coil just dont work? I have a friend getting me a switch with a set of keys from a junkyard, no telling when he will bring it to me though.
Last edited by 79FordBlake; Dec 18, 2007 at 09:53 PM.
Do you think it will get enough contact to work if I shove the jumper wire lead into the I terminal connector or should I just splice into that wire to make sure there is good connection?
I tried cranking the 460 again today. I got the jumper wire attached as good as I could to the connector that normally goes on the I-terminal. It still would not fire. My friend has still not brought me an ignition switch with a set of keys. I could be wrong but with the wire directly wired doesn't that make it by pass the safety switch to where it will crank even if not in park? The reason I say this is because something inside the steering column is cracked and it is hard to shift it unless you do it by hand manually on the side of the transmission. I thought that may be keeping the safety switch from working like it should. I was going to try a different coil also just in case the one on it is bad. Everything under the rotor cap is clean, nothing is rusted up or pitted.
Last edited by 79FordBlake; Dec 20, 2007 at 06:14 PM.
With my directions what you did was bypass the ignition switch send power (that the switch normally provides) to the coil to to have it start and run.
what do you have for diagnositc tools
Test Light ?
Multi-meter ?
If the engine cranked... that's good
If there was power to the coil...that is good.
Here is the wiring for your truck so you can see what we did
I have a test light. I tested for power going to the distributer. There was none, then after that it started pouring down rain so I didnt check to see if the power was actually getting to the coil. In the morning if it is not raining I will check to make sure the coil is getting power. I thank you for all the help and sorry for so many questions.
OK, I put a different coil on this morning and I know it works because I tested it on my 79 that I drive everyday. I tested for power going to the coil and I had power there, but it still will not fire. I cleaned the rotor and cap and still nothing. Is there anything else in there that should be cleaned to make sure it gets power? I took the plug out and held it to the side of the engine while cranking it over and got nothing.
Check to make sure you have power at the ignition module too at the red/white wires. One should be hot in run and one hot in start. You should really just get an ignition switch, that will take the guess work and possibility of toasting something expensive out of the equation.