I was needing the best advice on what should be removed to get to the plugs, and how to remove them.

I understand, people have removed the PCM(computor on the passenger side fire wall), and possibly the power steering bracket. Anything else?



Also, how hard was it to break the plug loose(before even taking it out, just to get it started)? I tried, and it was more than 33 ft. lbs like the recommended pressure.

I would really appreciate any help.

 

when i did mine i removed the cop's and pulled the fuel rail loose(some people dont loosen the rail.)the plugs came out fairly easy ,just take your time,i set aside a few hours to do it so i wouldnt be hurried .having swivels and varios length extensions will help. antiseize on the new plugs and tighten to torque specks . hope this helps you.

 

I did a plug change a little while back and posted pics in my gallery. Check 'em out and it'll give you an idea on what I did.

 

Remove the air filter assembly as well as the P/S bracket. I've never seen any of our techs remove the PCM.

You don't need torque specs either. wrench the plugs in, then give them a little extra umph... Also only antiseize the special 5.4L plug(the odd looking one that has a tendancy to rust into the head...and only put it on the part that seats to the head, not the threads). Using antiseize on other plugs could cause issues or by putting it on the threads.

 

I removed the PCM and bracket, which gave me clear access to #4. Didn't remove anything else. Before attempting to break the plugs out, I Kroiled them and let soak for 2-3 hours, then broke them about 1/16 to 1/8 turn, resprayed Kroil, and let it soak some more (a good hour at least).

When it was really time to go to town and get them out, I encountered more then a few that gave pretty good resistance...in those cases, I turned 'em back in 1/8-1/4 turn, back out the same, back in again, and back out 1 full turn. Eventually all of them came out nicely. NOTE: before completely freeing the plug, I jammed a paper shop towel in the well to soak up the extra Kroil, and air-blasted the well. This prevents excess Kroil from running into the cylinder when the plug is removed.

Key points: 1) TAKE YOUR TIME...a full day should be set aside! 2) Use Kroil liberally and give it time to work, even before attempting to break (bad choice of words, there) the plug torque. Kroil works at a microscopic level and can help in that initial effort. 3) Once free, Kroil again and allow more time. 4) Work the plugs in and out at the first hint of resistance. 5) Clear out the accumulated Kroil from the well before pulling the plug out. 6) Although not previously mentioned, having the correct 9/16" spark plug socket helps tremendously in both removal and reinsertion (hand start the new ones, making sure no cross-threading)

I know you've been fixin to do this for months now, but I can assure you that if you take your time, it will be a job well done! Good luck!!!

 

Thanks a lot, I really appreciate the help.
I attempted to take one out last night, after putting a little kroil on it, and with a torque wrench, it would not break free at 35 lb ft . I thougt I wasn't supposed to go past 33.....
I tried doing it a little harder than (i'd say 45), and it still didn't break free.
Doesn't look to good, but I have all day, so hopefully I'll get it done without breaking anything!

 

Hey MBBFord,

I was thinking you probably hit the magic mileage number and were about to tackle this job. I agree with DonsFX4 above. Get the engine warm. Let it run for a couple minutes. The aluminum will expand slightly but the steel of the plug will not expand in that short time. Let the Kroil do its work. I don't recall the exact torque value on removal. They mention a value of 33 lb-ft in the TSB and I would say I was in that ballpark. I know you've read everything on this a few times but just keep in mind that they recommend you work it back and forth a little if it's higher than 33 or so. I think the first application of Kroil may get to a few threads. Once the plug breaks free (sorry to use the word "break" here!), then another small application will wick down to the ground sleeve.

Again, make sure you're working on a warm engine. I even changed 5-8 first and then started the engine to warm it up again before tackling 1-4.

DMAC

 

Well, I had two plugs soaking all night, then soaked them for about 2 hours in the morning, and then got to work.
First one came out without a problem, second one was coming out just as easy(but I was still working it back and forth, while never going past 33 lb ft), and I pulled the socket and extension out, but no plug.......... Well, the threads and nut part came out, but the whole plug stayed in. I sprayed more Kroil, while working on another plug. Went back with a long needle noise plier, grabbed the plug, and slightly pulled. Well, I got half the plug out, but couldn't get the ground sheild out, b/c I can't get the porcelain out.




HOW do you get the porcelain out of the ground sheild????????????????????????????????????????????
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