Odd Brake Problem, Need Advice
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Odd Brake Problem, Need Advice
Hi Everyone,
My wife's car is a 2000 Expeditions. recenlty on a trip up to the mountains, my wife noticed the brake pedal was feeling mushy andthe pedal was traveling farther than usual. No brake check light, the fluid looked a little low abut not much. There were no visible fluid leaksand ECU codes. Teh only mechanic in hte area, indicated the master cylinder needed to be replaced and rear brake pads which were a little low. After picking up the car and heading back home, my wife realized the brakes were still not right right. The local Ford dealer checked the car out and wants $600 to replace the mater cylinder again, Not confident that the master cylinder is the problem, I bled the brake lines. After driving the truick around a bit, I noticed the pedal mushiness seems intermittent with no real pattern. Could the brake booster be going bad? Any body else run into this?
Thanks
Jeff
My wife's car is a 2000 Expeditions. recenlty on a trip up to the mountains, my wife noticed the brake pedal was feeling mushy andthe pedal was traveling farther than usual. No brake check light, the fluid looked a little low abut not much. There were no visible fluid leaksand ECU codes. Teh only mechanic in hte area, indicated the master cylinder needed to be replaced and rear brake pads which were a little low. After picking up the car and heading back home, my wife realized the brakes were still not right right. The local Ford dealer checked the car out and wants $600 to replace the mater cylinder again, Not confident that the master cylinder is the problem, I bled the brake lines. After driving the truick around a bit, I noticed the pedal mushiness seems intermittent with no real pattern. Could the brake booster be going bad? Any body else run into this?
Thanks
Jeff
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
Are you sure the Master Cylinder was replaced? If the Master Cylinder was replaced was it new or rebuilt? I once got a rebuilt one that was worse than the one I took off. If the fluid level was just a little low the rear pads being a little worn would not cause a mushy pedal.
If you press on the brake pedal and the pedal keeps going down after having some resistance then chances are that the Master cylinder is still bad. The brake booster typically does not cause a mushy pedal.
If you press on the brake pedal and the pedal keeps going down after having some resistance then chances are that the Master cylinder is still bad. The brake booster typically does not cause a mushy pedal.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Central NYS
Also, when checking the master cylinder, press the brake pedal down to where it starts to firm up and hold it at that position. Then reduce the pressure of your foot 'slightly' (but still keeping some pressure on the pedal). If the pedal then begins to fall at this reduced pressure, you've got a MC problem.
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Modified99,
The Master cylinder was replaced, but I cannot tell for certain if it is a new or rebuit one. The part is listed on the work order as a "United" part? I have tried turing the car off, pumping the brake pedal 4-5 times and then held the brake pedal down. The pedal had some resistance, but then slowly dropped down. I tried this same test the next day and the pedal help firm:-o
Jeff
The Master cylinder was replaced, but I cannot tell for certain if it is a new or rebuit one. The part is listed on the work order as a "United" part? I have tried turing the car off, pumping the brake pedal 4-5 times and then held the brake pedal down. The pedal had some resistance, but then slowly dropped down. I tried this same test the next day and the pedal help firm:-o
Jeff
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Berry1234,
I have tried bled the systems several times to point where all the fluid has been replaced.
Jeff
I have tried bled the systems several times to point where all the fluid has been replaced.
Jeff
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Post Fiend
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I threw a lot of money at a problem like this once, it turned out to be the brake proportioning valve. Don't know if this would apply in your case or not.
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BTW,
I want to thank everyone for the their input. The problem has me quite perplexed, but hopefully, with the help of the forum members, I can locate the cause without replacing parts randomly.
Jeff
I want to thank everyone for the their input. The problem has me quite perplexed, but hopefully, with the help of the forum members, I can locate the cause without replacing parts randomly.
Jeff
Post Fiend
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In my case it was sucking air. I'd bleed bubbles forever. I have no idea if this is even possible in the Expy application. I ended up finding mine by seeing a *damp* (but not leaking) area on the proportioning valve. After replacement and bleeding the pedal firmed right up.
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I had the same problem with another Ford truck I owned about 7 or 8 years ago. I went to the local Auto Zone and bought a rebuilt master cylinder....didn't fix it. That master cylinder was bad too. To make a long story short, Auto Zone got in a bad batch of rebuilt master cylinders. I went through 3 before I finally wizened up and exchanged it for a new one. That finally fixed my problem. Some things you are better off getting new, and not rebuilt. This is one of those times. Course, that was a few years ago...they could rebuild them better now, but that is a chance I don't take...lol Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps.
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If the problem is intermittent, I would guess that it is not a bad master cylinder. Since it was first noticed on a mountain drive, I would say that it is a front bearing. When you have a bad bearing and drive the curvy mountain roads the rotor actually will wobble back-and-forth spreading the brake pads apart. When you hit the brake again, there is extra travel for the brake pads, so you have to push the brake pedal farther to have them cover the gap. My .02
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: north carolina
Probably goes without saying. But, if you don't properly bench bleed a new or rebuild MC on replacement, you'll continue to have mushy pedal symptoms. There's lots of places for air to get trapped in a MC. And, you'll practically never be able to get it out with normal brake bleeding process.