Power window problem
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Joined: Dec 2007
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Power window problem
Hi everyone, I'm glad to have this forum. I have a 99 ranger XLT, passenger side window works with down sw but not up. For a while the driver side sw would operate the passenger side up and down. Now, the driver side sw won't operate the passenger side at all. Driver side window is fine, passenger side still works dn but not up. I bought a new driver side sw from Ford, same result. I did not change the passenger side. Help!!!!
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
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From: SW Va
Sounds like a wiring problem.
Seeing as how the drivers window works & the right window will move in one direction, suggests that the motor is ok & so is it's ground conection, so that seems to me, to leave us looking at the wiring that controls the up function.
The wiring from the right door, over to the drivers control panel, goes through three electrical connectors, so they probably belong on the suspect list for now.
I'd probably begin with the W/Y lead on the passenger side wire harness, as it seems to be common with the passenger & drivers side switches, on running the passenger side window up.
Maybe try flexing the wire harness,where it goes into the door, or maybe smacking the door panel with the palm of you hand, while actuating the passengers side up switch & see if you can wake it up & make it begin to work & maybe thus isolate the trouble area.
Just some thoughts to ponder.
Let us know what you find.
Seeing as how the drivers window works & the right window will move in one direction, suggests that the motor is ok & so is it's ground conection, so that seems to me, to leave us looking at the wiring that controls the up function.
The wiring from the right door, over to the drivers control panel, goes through three electrical connectors, so they probably belong on the suspect list for now.
I'd probably begin with the W/Y lead on the passenger side wire harness, as it seems to be common with the passenger & drivers side switches, on running the passenger side window up.
Maybe try flexing the wire harness,where it goes into the door, or maybe smacking the door panel with the palm of you hand, while actuating the passengers side up switch & see if you can wake it up & make it begin to work & maybe thus isolate the trouble area.
Just some thoughts to ponder.
Let us know what you find.
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New User
Joined: Dec 2007
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It's fixed
Thanks paw paw, I went after the wiring but all looked ok so I pulled the switch out from the passenger side. After testing for 12vdc found zero at the up terminals. I took the sw apart and found dirty contacts. I cleaned the contacts with a piece of emery cloth. Then reinstalled and retested found 12v. Tried it and tadaaaaaaa!!!!!!! Window works up & dn from drv and passgr side. Thanks again guys. Now if only the dealer will let me return the sw I bought.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Good interesting feedback, so it was dirty switch contacts.
I'm begining to think most of our electric lock & window problem are dirty/corroded switch contact problems.
I have a 94 Taurus, whos electric window & lock switches have begun to act up & I know it's not from worn out switch contacts, as some of the switches are rarely used.
Now to find a reasonably priced, plastic safe, electrical contact cleaner spray!!!!
I'm begining to think most of our electric lock & window problem are dirty/corroded switch contact problems.
I have a 94 Taurus, whos electric window & lock switches have begun to act up & I know it's not from worn out switch contacts, as some of the switches are rarely used.
Now to find a reasonably priced, plastic safe, electrical contact cleaner spray!!!!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,726
Likes: 10
From: down south
my pass side would not work from the pass side switch. took the switch apart, cleaned it with contact cleaner and worked just fine. Just add a comment for the next person that this is not unusual.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
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From: SW Va
Originally Posted by mfp4073
my pass side would not work from the pass side switch. took the switch apart, cleaned it with contact cleaner and worked just fine. Just add a comment for the next person that this is not unusual.
Most of the contact cleaners I've priced are out of sight on cost!!!!
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Joined: Feb 2005
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stealership probably won't refund the part unless it's in an unopened plastic bag, if it's in a box they won't, electrical parts are not usually returnable. Good luck
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: down south
I think I got some at autozone for like $5...no idea the brand, but for years I have used TV VCR tuner/cleaner from places like radioshack. The radio shack stuff has gotten really expensive. Like $11 for a small can. Dont see what the cheaper stuff at autozone does any different......
http://http://www.radioshack.com/pro...entPage=search
$9.99
autozone and dap dont show any pics online, so I am not sure what they are calling it or the exact price. This stuff will last you FOREVER, so the $10 at radio shack is not money wasted.
http://http://www.radioshack.com/pro...entPage=search
$9.99
autozone and dap dont show any pics online, so I am not sure what they are calling it or the exact price. This stuff will last you FOREVER, so the $10 at radio shack is not money wasted.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
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From: SW Va
Yup thats about what I remember the Radio Shack spray contact cleaner costing a year or so ago when I stopped by & nearly choked when I saw the price on it!!!!
It seems the AZ stuff is made by CRC & the 5103 is plastic safe & they sell it for about $5-$6, just my price, as I'm basically frugal!!!! lol
The AZ contact cleaner CRC 5048 is NOT to be used on plastic parts, ONLY metal parts!!!!
The CRC 5048 probably has a stress crack promoter in it, that'll get after plastic parts & there's plenty of plastic in & around our electric window & lock switches, so we gotta be careful what we spray into & around them.
CRC also seems to make a couple of other products that might work, as they are listed as plastic safe. CRC CO 02016 & CRC QD, contact cleaners.
LPS PSC 04620 contact cleaner also says it's plastic safe, but I haven't found prices on it.
Guess it's time for me to run by AZ & pick up a can of the CRC 5103 & try it.
It seems the AZ stuff is made by CRC & the 5103 is plastic safe & they sell it for about $5-$6, just my price, as I'm basically frugal!!!! lol
The AZ contact cleaner CRC 5048 is NOT to be used on plastic parts, ONLY metal parts!!!!
The CRC 5048 probably has a stress crack promoter in it, that'll get after plastic parts & there's plenty of plastic in & around our electric window & lock switches, so we gotta be careful what we spray into & around them.
CRC also seems to make a couple of other products that might work, as they are listed as plastic safe. CRC CO 02016 & CRC QD, contact cleaners.
LPS PSC 04620 contact cleaner also says it's plastic safe, but I haven't found prices on it.
Guess it's time for me to run by AZ & pick up a can of the CRC 5103 & try it.