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Jun 30, 2001 | 12:57 PM

steakman_usaf

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Posts: 335

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From: Hutto 20 mi. above Austin USA

Cam Question

I've heard Evan's 270H Clifford Cam, and it sounds pretty high in duration. My question to you guys is, can I go any higher without losing so much vaccum, that i'd be losing my vaccum accesories? At which duration, MUST I go to a higher ratio rocker? When I install the cam bearings, what size should I use?

Since my engine is really starting to show it's age, and I can't really afford to rebuild it the way I want to. The only thing I'm going to do to the bottom end, is change out the bearings, and oil pump. To the top end I'm installing the cam with cam bearings, hopefully roller rockers, headers, and four barrel, which I already own. I know it's not the way i'd want to do it, but oh well. Oh yeah, and I'll be porting, polishing, and matching everything too

All the above, with a spooled 3.70 rear end should make it accelerate decently, shouldn't it??? I hope it's worth the money... I just want to be able to beat a vortech V6 Chevy...

Chris
1982 F100 Flareside
Blue and Silver
31x10.5 BFGoodrich A/T K/O's
300 I-6 SROD 4speed 2.75 9" Rearend
MSD6AL, 8.5mm S/C Wires
Blaster 2F Coil
Runs on AvGas 100LL
215,000 Original Miles

Jun 30, 2001 | 04:36 PM

traildawg

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From: Lima, OH

Cam Question

I wouldn't go much higher than the 270 if you want to keep ur vacuum accessories. As for the rockers, you don't have to change ther ratio. All the higher ratio does is increases valve lift. As for the cam bearings, there's only one size to get unless you have to have the cam bores in the block line honed.

Jim
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3aaa4bac6f539876.jpg
1993 F150 2WD
6" Pro-Comp Stage II Lift w/35's
Auburn Pro-Series Diff. w/4.30 gears
http://www.ProjectTrailDawg.com

Jul 1, 2001 | 07:46 AM

steakman_usaf

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Senior User

Joined: Feb 2000

Posts: 335

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From: Hutto 20 mi. above Austin USA

Cam Question

Thanks, that's just what I needed to hear!

Chris
1982 F100 Flareside
Blue and Silver
31x10.5 BFGoodrich A/T K/O's
300 I-6 SROD 4speed 2.75 9" Rearend
MSD6AL, 8.5mm S/C Wires
Blaster 2F Coil
Runs on AvGas 100LL
215,000 Original Miles

Jul 1, 2001 | 08:13 AM

traildawg

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Joined: Jul 2000

Posts: 429

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From: Lima, OH

Cam Question

WOw....somehow I missed the lset 2 parts of your first post. LOL Anyways, with 215k miles on your engine I'd recommend a full rebuild...not just bearings. Complete rebuild kits aren't that expensive, and I'm suem you compression ratio would thank you for it. I'd tear down the engine first to see how the pistons look, and if they're ok you can get a kit w/o them. All the headwork in the world won't help you if you don't have well ssealed cylinders.

Another note is your spool idea.../why a spook? By the time you add in the C-clip Eliminator Kit the price is equal to a good locker, not to mention the locker will be more street friendly.

Jim
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3aaa4bac6f539876.jpg
1993 F150 2WD
6" Pro-Comp Stage II Lift w/35's
Auburn Pro-Series Diff. w/4.30 gears
http://www.ProjectTrailDawg.com

Jul 2, 2001 | 12:03 AM

steakman_usaf

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Joined: Feb 2000

Posts: 335

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From: Hutto 20 mi. above Austin USA

Cam Question

I didn't even know my truck was a C-clip axle? You mean like the new Jeep axles? I guess I shoulda said mini spool, because those are alot less expensive. Would I still have to buy the eliminator kit with the 'mini' spool? I can't really afford much more than that, so if it does go into the hundreds considerably, I'll be leaving it 'peg leg', with just the 3.70's :-)

You do present a good point concerning the full rebuild. I just get squeamish thinking about it though, my '53 223 is taking me FOREVER to rebuild! I'm just scared it's going to take forever. This is my daily ride back and forth to work. I guess I'll just have to make the '53 the daily driver, or I'll just have to start rebuilding another 300 on the ol' engine stand.

Chris
1982 F100 Flareside
Blue and Silver
31x10.5 BFGoodrich A/T K/O's
300 I-6 SROD 4speed 2.75 9" Rearend
MSD6AL, 8.5mm S/C Wires
Blaster 2F Coil
Runs on AvGas 100LL
215,000 Original Miles
My 300's Theme Song - "Knock Knock Knockin' On Heaven's Door..." :-)

Jul 2, 2001 | 01:26 AM

traildawg

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Joined: Jul 2000

Posts: 429

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From: Lima, OH

Cam Question

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 02-Jul-01 AT 02:29 AM (EST)[/font][p]I'm pretty sure the 9" has C-clips, and yes, a mini-spool would also require the Eliminators. Your cheapest solution would be to look around the junkyards for a trac-lock (posi) unit. You could probably pick it up for under $100 then just get a rebuild kit for it.

It shouldn't take you any longer to do a full rebuild than it would to just replace all the bearings. You're going to have to totally tear the block down anyways, so why not make everything fresh? It takes what.....10 minutes to replace rings, and maybe a half hour to change pistons if needed? Just my opinion.

Jim
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3aaa4bac6f539876.jpg
1993 F150 2WD
6" Pro-Comp Stage II Lift w/35's
Auburn Pro-Series Diff. w/4.30 gears
http://www.ProjectTrailDawg.com

Jul 12, 2001 | 10:31 AM

82F100SWB

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Joined: Jan 2000

Posts: 5,330

Likes: 17

From: Dryden, ON, Canada

Cam Question

Woah, no C-clips in a 9" there Traildawg, the axles are held in by the bearing retainer plate, you're thinking 8.8. All you need to do to pull a 9"'s axle is get the 4 nuts off on the bearing retainer plate, and if you don't have leaking axle seals, it can be a bear, I've only done it 4 or 5 times on my truck.....
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide 4wd
HD 300-6 9.5:1 CR
Clifford 270H cam
Hedman Hedder
SBC valved 66 240 head
Headlight Relays - Delanty Style
NP435(6.69 low)
Twin Sticked NP 205
3.55 Geared ARB'd 9"/Trac-Locked Dana 44 TTB
31x10.50/15 Cooper Discoverer LT's