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My heater/AC never worked with my remote started and I thought it was SUPPOSED to be that way, until you posted this:
Originally Posted by danr1
Ok I just got done installing mine, I see what you may have done. The wire that tests out per the instructions is a small gray/yellow wire. I had to connect to the two large gray/yellow wires to have the heater work with the key off. however they do not test out quite as the book says they should.
Just went out and saw that my brown wire from the remote starter was in fact connect to the SMALLER gray/yellow wire. Next to it I saw the two bigger gray/yellow wires; pick one and threw my voltmeter on it, everything checked out. Connected my brown wire to that one and sure enough, blower box turns on with my remote start now!! I can't tell you how happy I am, and just in time, the cold is starting to set in around these parts!!
Anyways, I tried to give you rep points but I've already given you some recently. I owe you big time. Thanks for all your help and the general help that you've given to members all over the forum, you're a very knowledgable and nice guy. Happy Holidays!
Hey Chris , does the Bulldog have keyless entry too?
I am trying to get one like that for X-mas, how much was it by the way?
I like your new sig there.
Retail is $170. Directwholesale.net is the website that Bulldog uses for selling their products: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ (click Starters --> Deluxe starters to see the Deluxe 500)
Whatever you end up doing, I suggest buying the t-harness. I didn't use it, figuring the extra money wouldn't be worth it... TAKE IT FROM ME!! Buy the t-harness. Installing this thing without it was a huge headache. Took me around 6 hours.
I researched a good amount before deciding on this starter and found that Bulldog was up there being near top of the line for remote starters. I'm very satisfied with my purchase, and their customer service is AWESOME! For a while I had the supervisors DIRECT number, and called him several times over a few days because I was having trouble with the keyless entry. Turns out I installed in wrong and fried the internal relays in my unit. He gave me an address and I shipped it to them to get repaired FOR FREE! That's the definition of Grade-A service in my book. Good luck Mike.
Last edited by Skandocious; Dec 8, 2007 at 08:23 PM.
Seriously looking into it , tired of running out and starting the truck when it is cold , that 500 looks like a nice setup , only 78$ on Ebay too.I left a reply on your sig thread.
Oh I was bummed I looked, T-harnesses aren't available for f-250 trucks, I had to install it the same way you did, one wire at a time!
Lists them for 94-03 F-150, I take it there is something different between the F150 and the F250/350 of the same years?
I'm fairly sure that an F150 & F250 of the same engine/trans/interior components would be compatible with the t-harness. I believe the axles, frame, suspension, etc are the only things that are different on an F250, which has no effect on the interior electrical systems. Don't quote me on that.
I'm fairly sure that an F150 & F250 of the same engine/trans/interior components would be compatible with the t-harness. I believe the axles, frame, suspension, etc are the only things that are different on an F250, which has no effect on the interior electrical systems. Don't quote me on that.
I would think so to but there must be a reason why it only lists the 150ies, and only them years at that. If something fits both it says so that I ever seen.
That and I haven't had a f150 for a very long time so I just can't say, when I did it was a 1978!
I would think so to but there must be a reason why it only lists the 150ies, and only them years at that. If something fits both it says so that I ever seen.
That and I haven't had a f150 for a very long time so I just can't say, when I did it was a 1978!
I think with this generation of trucks, because they are SO SIMILAR amongst the different classes, they often generalize them into an F-Series category, which sometimes gets translated into just 1 of the classes... Often times they just choose the lowest most basic one, the F150. I think this is one of those cases.
Hey Dan I've got a question about that... Does the AC somehow get power in remote start mode or ONLY the blower box?
Well if you have the AC turned on and the fan is on high it will come on and blow cold air once its started. I'd leave it set to "max ac" with the blower on high.
But you have to have all the accessory wires connected to the remote starter for it to work.
In your post you said you moved the wire from little wire to one of the big one’s, everything may not work unless you connect it to both big wires, but I see the wiring chart only lists one for our trucks I found two. Yours does have two large gray/yellow wires right? That’s what I did so everything in the truck works once it starts. My 94, the one I just put the starter in doesn’t have air so I wouldn’t have been able to test the theory on that one.
That said the instructions say to install the accessory feed wire from the starter to “all” the accessory wires found in any given car. I believe it said some have as many as four of em. Along with multiple ignition wires on em, our trucks have two, one wire to each one from the starter, not one wire connected to both.
If yours had two and you only connected it to one all of the stuff in your truck may not work with the starter. Start it once and try everything before turning your key on.
Yeah it did have two and I just picked one and connected it there... I figured they were both for the same components but just needed 2 wires due to high voltage requirements... I'll check to make sure all my accessorries work... If they do, think I could cause any harm by not having it connected to both? If I connect the wire to both, isn't going to short circuit one wire to the other, giving the 2nd wire power from the first when maybe it isn't SUPPOSED to be getting power? (kind of creating a bridge between the two...?)
Yeah it did have two and I just picked one and connected it there... I figured they were both for the same components but just needed 2 wires due to high voltage requirements... I'll check to make sure all my accessorries work... If they do, think I could cause any harm by not having it connected to both? If I connect the wire to both, isn't going to short circuit one wire to the other, giving the 2nd wire power from the first when maybe it isn't SUPPOSED to be getting power? (kind of creating a bridge between the two...?)
Not sure how that would work and I’d have to look. I could see it might be bad if half the power/load used by the accessories went thought the ignition by connecting to just one wire. Where it would not if connected to both wires.
No bridge so to speak but ya too! Both wires are dead key off, only have juice when the key is on or the remote starter gives em juice. I think you'll find some things don't work with only one connected.
But yea try it once and see what work and what doesn't. If it's something like the radio I wouldn't worry about it.
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