KOER Code 13

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Jul 22, 2001 | 11:22 AM

Marti

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KOER Code 13

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 22-Jul-01 AT 01:10 PM (EST)[/font][p][font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 22-Jul-01 AT 12:25 PM (EST)[/font]

1989 F-150 300 EFI has Key On Engine Running EEC-IV trouble code 13 (RPM at idle out of range/high).

Helm Inc. is currently out of service manuals for this model. Does anyone know what to do to trace or correct this problem? The engine is stock aside from a K&N FIPK. Tried cleaning the idle speed control air bypass control valve on top of the throttle body. This did not do the trick. Is there any way to test this valve & solenoid before replacing?

The engine is idling around 1,100+ RPMs (should be 650-750 with manual transmission) and has a very slight surge. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Jul 22, 2001 | 12:41 PM

whomrig

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KOER Code 13

Maybe check for a vacuum leak first. Use carb cleaner in the spray can to do this. You should notice a difference in speed.

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Jul 22, 2001 | 12:56 PM

PAUL_2

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KOER Code 13

The pinpoint test for KOER 13 says to first check for vacuum leaks & then for Air Bypass Valve contamination . If the air bypass valve has not been cleaned that would be a good place to start . Also check the throttle plates for carbon buildup & clean them as nessecary .

Jul 23, 2001 | 09:27 AM

Marti

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KOER Code 13

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 23-Jul-01 AT 10:31 AM (EST)[/font][p]Thanks for the advice. I found no vacuum leaks and cleaned the air bypass valve and the attached solenoid controller with carb spray. Still no improvement. Then I tried unplugging the solenoid while the engine was running to see if I noticed a change. It didn't change the idle at all when unplugged. Then I started the engine with the valve in place put the solenoid removed. The engine idled high obviously because of the open vacuum where the solenoid screws on. When I put my finger over the opening and then tried to pull it away, the idle dropped.

From this test, I am concluding that the solenoid is not operating properly or the voltage is possibly off. The solenoid appears not to have enough power or voltage to pull the plunger in far enough to close the air flow in the bypass valve.

I am going to get a new assembly at Autozone for $47.99 and see if that corrects it.

Jul 24, 2001 | 12:16 AM

Marti

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KOER Code 13

Now I'm bummin'. I changed the idle speed control air bypass control valve and still no change. I cannot find any vacuum leaks. Does anyone know what the voltage to the bypass valve solenoid should be at idle? Also, what about the resistance on the solenoid?

I'm wondering if I have a wiring problem going to the solenoid or the EEC is not sending the right voltage to the solenoid. I also wonder if the K&N FIPK is causing this problem because of the increased airflow. I tried covering the air filter to see if it idled down. That didn't make any difference either.

Any further suggestions?

Jul 27, 2001 | 09:12 PM

jicysa

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KOER Code 13

Try checking throttle position sensor voltage at idle. This can easily be done with volt-ohm meter. Wide open throttle voltage should be near five volts. At idle it should be under one volt. Do this without engine running, key on. Measure voltage on gray wire w/white stipe. This will be TPS voltage input.