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Bleeding these things is a real PITA, after struggling with mine for a LONG time, I finally broke down and sent it over to the stealership, three days later (three days of work, not just waiting) I went by to check and they had the back end of my truck in the air and the front on the ground. When I say in the air, I mean WAY in the air. I would say in leu of the prebled kit, send it to ford and let them fool with it. And that is hard for me considering I am willing to take on almost any project no matter how big. Those clutches on the other hand.....................grrr...................ha te them buggers.
is there any way of knowing which has gone bad, the slave or the master? I know it's just as easy to replace the whole system...but can the cause be pin pointed?
is there any way of knowing which has gone bad, the slave or the master? I know it's just as easy to replace the whole system...but can the cause be pin pointed?
Welcome to FTE.
I never tried it, but I would think you could start by removing the slave cylinder from the tranny, remove the cap from the clutch master cylinder, then slowly pump the slave cylinder rod while someone watches the fluid in the master to see if your moving fluid. If so put the cap back on the master and try pumping the slave rod with the pressure against it. I would think the same principle applies to the cylinder on the clutch pedal.
2.Slowly spin the input shaft from the back of the tranny where the driveshaft bolts onto, as you are pushing the transmission forward toward the engine. THis will allow you to align the spines with the clutch to the input shaft.
3.After you have the transmission slid close enough to the engine, you can start the bolts and gently turn them to bring it home.
Did you use the clutch alignment tool when you bolted the new clutch onto the flywheel? If not the transmission will not slide in.
I have purchased long bolts from Home depot on my f150 clutch swap. I bought the bolts. Like 8" rs. Cut the heads off. Finger tightened them in the bell housing opposing each other. The long bolts act as guides so you can lift the tranny onto the bolts and slide forward. (Like long dowel pins) Turning the yoke to align the splines. at the same time. Once you slide it in place just remove the long 8" guide bolts.
And Ditto the clutch alignment tool. I borrowed one from NAPA.
What the three previous posts said.
Especially the part about the clutch alignment tool.
You don't really need the long bolts if you have a good tranny jack, but the clutch must be perfectly aligned or you simply won't be able to insert the pilot shaft into the pilot bushing.
Well that seems to be the problem. I have bought 2 of the alignment tools and it looks perfectly aligned but that tranny will not go in. I have been working on this thing for four days now. I keep thinking there must be something wrong with the pressure plate so I took it back and they told me that they measured it and everything is right but it won't go in.
David
Well that seems to be the problem. I have bought 2 of the alignment tools and it looks perfectly aligned but that tranny will not go in. I have been working on this thing for four days now. I keep thinking there must be something wrong with the pressure plate so I took it back and they told me that they measured it and everything is right but it won't go in.
David
If you still haven't gotten the thing to insert, try removing the disc and slipping it onto the pilot shaft.
I have on rare occations, (once in my lifetime) found a disc that had a bad spline and it would not allow the installation of the engine.
Took me a bit to figure that one out as well.
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