Hello All,

I just bought a 00 F250 7.3 4x4 Supercab, longbed with 160K.

As this is my first diesel, I have a number of questions.

I want to have the following fluids changed:

Oil - Plan to use Rotella 15w-40
Antifreeze
Transfer Case Fluid
Differentail Oil

I will change the oil if it will fit into my parent's garage.

So far, Jiffy Lube has the best prices and seem very knowledgable about the 7.3's fluids and additives requirements. I have never used Jiffy Lube but the one I spoke with seemed very knowledgable and reasonable priced - 1/2 the price of a Ford Dealer. They claim to use bottled Shell Rotella T 15w-40, which is what I plan to use anyway. I'd like to have the coolant changed. Most places just use Prestone and add the FW-15 or 16 additive. This Jiffy Lube told me about the additive; I didn't need to tell them. I have read on this site that Prestone may not be the best antifreeze for the 7.3 but it appears that I have few choices unless I want to do it myself, which I don't.

What fliud does the tansfer case and the differentials use? Jiffy Lube states they have to read the axle tags to determine correct fluid. One Ford Dealer says synthetics and another states conventional. What if the rears have no axle tag?

How long should I let the engine sit before draining the oil? I ask this because the turbo is oil cooled, right?

How do I determine what gears I have? I have looked at the door sticker and I think the code is K9 but not sure as the letters do not line up under the axle code label. Another post made mention of axle codes being listed in the tech folders. I have been unable to find any folders on this site.

What is the purpose of the dual battery setup in my truck? How do I jump start it if needed? Maintenance and care?

As the truck will sit more than it is driven ( hope to drive it once a week if that), should I keep the tank full or 1/4 full? Should I add a fuel additive?

I have read the mods forums. Seems like the best air box to use is the AIS but I haven't found a picture of one.

Is there a way to find out what suspension and options my truck came with? I want to add a 7.5' Meyers Snowplow from my 95 F250. I know that diesel super cabs are not Ford Snow Plow spec but I plan to plow about 5 driveways a snow fall and would like to believe that any SD is capable of that without falling apart.


Lots of other questions including Dp Tuner and Hypertech questions. Should I consider any of the these on a 160K engine and original turbo?

Thanks..

Neil

 

Vin is 1FTNX21F5YEE40309 if anyone can tell me how my truck is equipped.

Thanks..


Neil

 

empty tanks of diesel will condinsate more than a full tank.

 

Neil I won't answer all your questions but maybe just a few.

I would never EVER take my truck to a jiffy lube, or Grease Monkey, nor anywhere else where a 17-year-old kid can put his grubby hands on my truck (unless it was Kris, of course). I truly believe that changing your own fluids is the only way you'll know for sure that the proper oil and filters have been used.

FYI don't forget to change your fuel filter, if you haven't already.

If you read your owner's manual, it will tell you that your truck SPECIFICALLY takes a certain type of Motocraft coolant. Check the threads to read about coolant flushes.

You'll want to let your truck sit for many hours before changing the oil. this has nothing to do with the turbo...but may save you from some very badly burned skin.

You have two batteries because a diesel needs a lot more juice than your generic gasser. You not only have a starting system, but you also have a glowplug system that puts a lot of drain on your electrical systems and requires both batteries. Both batteries should be in good shape for your truck to start as it should.

Diesels CAN be jumpstarted, but it's pretty difficult. Only time I have ever successfully jumped a diesel was with another truck that had two batteries and using two sets of jumper cables. Care? - make sure your battery cables are in decent shape, that your batteries both test ok and that your terminals are clean.

There's lots of debate out there on the air cleaner systems, but a lot of guys around here just use a standard paper filter. Search for Kwik filter and you'll see what I mean.

 

Neil.

If you plan on doing mods to your truck it will cost you an arm and a leg if you have some shop do it for you. Most of us do our own work on these trucks. Doing these fluid changes will help you learn more about your truck. They are easy to do with the right instructions that you can get here. The more you do yourself, the more money you can save for mods.

Good luck.

 

I let my truck sit for about an hour from the last time it ran. This allows most of the oil to drain from the heads and other places where oil can sit.


I cannot comment too much on the diffs cause mine is a 2wd with a limited slip. However, when I replaced my pinion seal I used the Ford Genuine gear oil with the friction modifier.


AIS is costly but awesome. That was the first mod I did. Stock airbox is junk.

You can change your own oil without a garage. My truck will not fit in my shop (too much crap/projects) so I lay down a large piece of cardboard or plywood and do it in the driveway. Make sure that your drain pan is capable of holding the 15qts of oil or you will have a big mess.

While you are down there, grease the front end and give the undercarriage a good once over. I do that every time I change the oil.

Dont be afraid of asking too many questions. We were all there once too.

BTW, when was the last time the belts and hoses were done? I would look into that as well...

GOOD LUCK!!

Dean

 

Neil,

Here is a picture of AIS intake

 

Here is a link that will help you decipher your truck

 

If it is any consolation, I plow commercially with a 9' Western pro-plow plus, that weighs in at about 800lbs on my '99 F350 CC LB. It's all about how you plow and drive with it on there.

 

I agree with all of these guys. As wierd as it sound working on your truck gives you a bond with that machine, and saves you a ton of money. Most jobs are not to hard with the right tool, this group of guys and ladies is the right tool.

 

Oh and I dont even like 17 year old kids sitting in my truck much less working on it.

 

I second that,they cost me an engine a few years back on wifes car
1/2 mile after oil change engine was knocking

 

Thanks everyone for helping me. I appreciate the info. Keep it coming.

Thanks Payson PSD for the pic of the AIS. How much better does it flow over the stock setup?

Jhand124, thanks for the link. I would have never found it.

I agree with all of you about the 17 year olds but I don’t have the time right now to do more than maybe an oil change and that is providing I can get it in the garage. I have been sick and it has been raining and snowing here so working outside is out of the question.

As far as Jiffy Lube, I have never used them or even thought about using them until I called them and the manager impressed me with his knowledge about the fluids the truck takes and of course the prices, which are less than 50% of a Ford Dealer.


Jiffy Lube Ford Dealer
Oil Change $70.00 $100.00 - $150.00
Differential Fluid Change $35.00/per rear for Synthetic $145.00 per rear
Coolant Change 90.00 w/additive $140.00
Transfer Case Fluid Chg $35.00 $125.00
$265.00 $655.00

I might cruise by there and inspect the place and staff before going for it. A big plus would be if I could watch.

Any other places local to the Maryland/Washington DC Metro Area that you can think of? I called one place another member recommended but they never called me back with an estimate.

Thanks..

Neil

 

Sorry the prices didn't line up in columns. The first prices are Jiffy Lube's and the 2nds are 2 local Ford Dealers.

 

Neil,

I got the AIS for 2 reasons. 1) It seals better and filters better than the stock intake 2) The inlet to the air box is at the front and not, as in my early '99, through the fender well. The air flow is as good if not better than stock.
I use my truck on some very dusty trails and forest roads. I wanted to keep as much of the dust out as possible. The AIS is not a "performance" intake. It is an intake than will perform what I need it to.