Brakes
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 117
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Brakes
Today after i got off work my brakes started acting wierd. they are very hard to push down and if you dont stand on the pedal they wont stop you. I have to really push on it to get stopped. What could this be. Any help appreciated. By the way it is a 1982 f-150 300 4 speed.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
From: Palatka, FL
Brakes
hey matt,
I assume that you have power brakes. I would think there is a problem with the brake booster mounted between the master cylinder and the firewall. Check the vacuum line going to it and if that is in good shape then you might need a new booster.
Boss300
Baby Blue '83 F100
3.70 auburn 9"rear
3 on the tree
300 inline six
2" lift with 31's
I assume that you have power brakes. I would think there is a problem with the brake booster mounted between the master cylinder and the firewall. Check the vacuum line going to it and if that is in good shape then you might need a new booster.
Boss300
Baby Blue '83 F100
3.70 auburn 9"rear
3 on the tree
300 inline six
2" lift with 31's
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,330
Likes: 17
From: Dryden, ON, Canada
Brakes
Definatley sounds like a booster problem. Either there's a vacum leak(is it idleing high too?) or, the booster is dead.
Boss300, I notice you have a 2" lift, was that for tire clearance, or did you have room for the 31's stock? I had lots of room for 31's when my truck was 2wd, but, I have 5900# GVWR F150 springs. Is it a body or suspension lift?
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide 4wd
HD 300-6 9.5:1 CR
Clifford 270H cam
Hedman Hedder
SBC valved 66 240 head
Headlight Relays - Delanty Style
NP435(6.69 low)
NP 205
3.55 Geared ARB'd 9" & Trac-Locked TTB
31x10.50/15 Cooper Discoverer LT's
Boss300, I notice you have a 2" lift, was that for tire clearance, or did you have room for the 31's stock? I had lots of room for 31's when my truck was 2wd, but, I have 5900# GVWR F150 springs. Is it a body or suspension lift?
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide 4wd
HD 300-6 9.5:1 CR
Clifford 270H cam
Hedman Hedder
SBC valved 66 240 head
Headlight Relays - Delanty Style
NP435(6.69 low)
NP 205
3.55 Geared ARB'd 9" & Trac-Locked TTB
31x10.50/15 Cooper Discoverer LT's
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Flat Rock, Michigan
Brakes
matt38:
I'm on my 3rd brake booster, but thats after 20 years and 200,000 miles. They aren't hard to replace, but i "highly suggest" that if you replace the booster you also replace the master cylinder. You can buy the booster and master cylinder together or shop around for seperate prices. A quick estimate of cost for both parts should be under $150.
The brake booster is held in place with 2 nuts under the steering column at the firewall inside your truck. You will also have to unbolt the master cylinder from the brake booster.
Assembly is easy, as long as you follow the directions for bleeding/primeing the master cylinder on the workbench using your vice to hold it. Directions come with the master clyinder.
Symptoms of a leaking vacuum brake booster can go 2 ways, at least from what i have experienced. When holding down the brake pedal you will hear a vacuum leak hissing sound inside your truck and at the same time you will feel your pedal slowly sinking to the floor. The other symptom is a rock hard brake pedal as if you had zero vacuum pressure to assist your brakes...its like trying to brake your truck without the engine running. Fred Flinstone had a better idea...your feet!
Remember, replacing a worn out vacuum booster without replacing your tired master cylinder will cause your master cylinder to blow out rather quickly from the new booster. But if your master cylinder was only bad, you would "not" have to replace the vacuum booster.
Good luck...you can do it!
1981 F-150 2WD STYLESIDE P/U
4.9L 1 BBL CARB
C6 AUTO
2.73:1 LIMITED SLIP REAR AXLE
STABILIZER BARS FRONT & REAR
6100 LB GVWR PACKAGE
ORIGINAL OWNER
200,850 PLUS MILES
100% STOCK & UNREBUILT
BUILT FORD TOUGH!!!
I'm on my 3rd brake booster, but thats after 20 years and 200,000 miles. They aren't hard to replace, but i "highly suggest" that if you replace the booster you also replace the master cylinder. You can buy the booster and master cylinder together or shop around for seperate prices. A quick estimate of cost for both parts should be under $150.
The brake booster is held in place with 2 nuts under the steering column at the firewall inside your truck. You will also have to unbolt the master cylinder from the brake booster.
Assembly is easy, as long as you follow the directions for bleeding/primeing the master cylinder on the workbench using your vice to hold it. Directions come with the master clyinder.
Symptoms of a leaking vacuum brake booster can go 2 ways, at least from what i have experienced. When holding down the brake pedal you will hear a vacuum leak hissing sound inside your truck and at the same time you will feel your pedal slowly sinking to the floor. The other symptom is a rock hard brake pedal as if you had zero vacuum pressure to assist your brakes...its like trying to brake your truck without the engine running. Fred Flinstone had a better idea...your feet!
Remember, replacing a worn out vacuum booster without replacing your tired master cylinder will cause your master cylinder to blow out rather quickly from the new booster. But if your master cylinder was only bad, you would "not" have to replace the vacuum booster.
Good luck...you can do it!
1981 F-150 2WD STYLESIDE P/U
4.9L 1 BBL CARB
C6 AUTO
2.73:1 LIMITED SLIP REAR AXLE
STABILIZER BARS FRONT & REAR
6100 LB GVWR PACKAGE
ORIGINAL OWNER
200,850 PLUS MILES
100% STOCK & UNREBUILT
BUILT FORD TOUGH!!!
