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i know its sort of a silly question. 300's don't rev high. they don't have to. i suspect the single most important factor to my rev limit must be the valve train. i have turbo-charged my engine c/w a 3 inch exhaust system. i am running an msd 6btm ignition and currently run 10 lbs boost max without detonation. i am interested in hearing from anyone who has installed a professionally ported head. i have good bottom end torque and nice high end power but would sure like to see what it would do at an even higher rev. i currently max out at 4200. anybody installed high perf valve springs? gone to larger valves? thanks
Give the folks at Clifford Performance a call. I believe they will say the 300 I6 can turn upwards of 7000 rpm when properly built and balanced. These engines are sometimes run in dragsters too. For stock engines, I have heard the engine is good for about 5000 to 5500. I never go over 4000 in my bone stock 300.
Question: Can you rev an engine to self destruction - or does it reach an RPM level and that's as fast as it's going to turn?
I have never been close to 4000, cause it sounds like it's screaming at 3500 (seldom been there). I almost hear a voice from the dash "What the hell are you doing back there -- shift or back-off, dammit!"
Raul
w/ 81 F-100, I6, SROD, Carter 1V non-feedback carb, no A/C, no PS, no PB, but it gets me where I need to go
Question: Can you rev an engine to self destruction - or does it reach an RPM level and that's as fast as it's going to turn?
I believe many vehicles now have some type of engine governer, but I wouldn't test it. Automatics are supposed to be set up to never redline--when working properly. Without a governor, an engine with no throttle (an open intake passage) should rev until it cannot get enough additional air or fuel (diesels have no throttle, but have the rpms controled by the amount of fuel injected) to increase power. This means, in most cases a wide open throttle will ultimately defy the laws of physics and the engine will fly apart from centrifugal force. This generally manifests itself in one component letting go first, such as a rod taking out the side of the block or head or a clutch exploding (which I believe is what got Don Garlits to switch from sitting behind his dragster engine to sitting in front of it when he nearly lost his foot to a clutch explosion). This is the typical adolesent boy experiment with an old car ready for the junkyard--put car in neutral, lay brick on accelorator pedal, and run.
I have never been close to 4000, cause it sounds like it's screaming at 3500 (seldom been there). I almost hear a voice from the dash "What the hell are you doing back there -- shift or back-off, dammit!"
I don't think the stock 300 I6 does a whole lot after the high 3000s. Its horsepower peaks at 3400 rpm so I would guess it would run good for a few hundred beyond that. I normally don't exceed about 3600 on my '95, but my '84 seemed to run strong right up to 4000.
Raul
w/ 81 F-100, I6, SROD, Carter 1V non-feedback carb, no A/C, no PS, no PB, but it gets me where I need to go
I like your truck. My '77 was the same, but for a find-n-grind three-on-the-tree. I purposefully sought a truck with no accessories as I believed it was just more stuff to go wrong. Now my '95 has much of the goodies--air, power brakes, abs, power steer etc, but I still have a clutch!
Forgot to add you want a pro head. How about calling Clifford they have or so I have been told street and pro flow heads for around 1200. Kinda steep but I guess it would depend on how much performance and how long you think the turbo setup will last. Good luck.
I am in the process of putting a Turbo on my 300. And from what I've been reading, and the info I've gathered. The Turbo should compensate for any resistance with flow in the intake and head, but the catch is, the Turbo has to be large enough to flow enough air to the engine. If the Turbo is to small, the engine will drop dead at a certain RPM. I'm sure porting and flow matching would help, but not as well as it would in a NA engine. What size turbo are you running? I'm curious to see if maybe I'll be facing the same situation.
My boss, who loves to regail us with stories from his drag racing days, tells of a buddy of his with a 4.9 that launched at about 8500. Not stock, of course. He said it sounded like a bunch of angry hornets. He says Cliffords had something to do with it...
The Clifford head is over priced. You might try Six Shooter Engines, http://members.tripod.com/vintage39c/six.htm
They have a proven track record and are real easy to talk to.
Go to the tech section of the web sight to see a 240 race head. Remember to tell them that this is a turbo motor. They'll need to use a 300 head instead of the 240 that they like to use.
A good ported head with bigger valves will lower boost temp and pressure slightly and increase horse power. The lowering is because it's now easier for the turbo to push the mix into the engine.
If you start having head gasket problems, there is a company that makes a solid copper head gasket for this aplication.
my six revs to about 4000, but at 3000 it sound like a rod is going to fly out the block,if the motor wants to blow at 3000-4500 why did for give it a tach that reads all the way to 6500?
i was told that the secret to having a high reving 300 was not only to have it well ballanced but to have chevy con. rods, i really felt the man who told me this was full of b.s.
Motorcraftman: I can only figure that Ford decided to save money by having one single style tach for all their vehicles. As such, they would not put a redline on it as that would vary from vehicle to vehicle and I suppose they have it so the engines won't over rev anyway. I like my J.C. Whitney supplied Datcon tach that dosen't need a redline with the 300 I6 because redline is off the dial. The tach goes up to 4000.
As for Ch**y Rods, hooey! I suppose they would work, but the certainly are not necessary. There should be some good aftermarket rods available. It may be, though, that the Ch**y rods are cheaper (perhaps, in more ways than one, though). I once saw a Hot Rod or Rod and Custom magazine that had an article with a Ch**y engine buildup and they used stock rods for a Ford 300 I6! That was in the early 90s. Sure wish I had saved that issue because I can't find the article anymore.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 18-Jul-01 AT 11:53 AM (EST)[/font][p]In an article about building inline sixs in custom classic trucks they showed a ch**y inline the exploded at 7000. A chunk of the block blew off. Inline sixs aren't made to rev high beacuse of their long strokes.
Well, my 300 will rev to 6500 quite easily, mind you, it's a HD with a forged crank, and theres a Clifford 270H and a heavily ported 1.94/1.60 SBC valved '66 240 head that has alot to do with it. Do not buy Clifford parts unless you have alot of cash to spend, they are way too expensive. I got my cam on a trade, and that's the only reason I have Clifford parts. Any good machinist can install the SBC valves for cheap, I got mine put in for $25, I'm using the stock springs with SBC valve locks and retainers. As for a turbo, I am working on a twin turbo EFI setup... I have a 300 head with the same SBC valves and a good port job, and a set of forged pistons to lower the CR to 8:1, and, it's going to have a GM efi system........
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide 2wd
HD 300-6 9.5:1 CR
Clifford 270H cam
Hedman Hedder
SBC valved 66 240 head
Headlight Relays - Delanty Style
NP435(6.69 low)
3.55 Geared ARB'd 9"
31x10.50/15 Cooper Discoverer LT's
Did the Ch**y engine blow up because sixes can't take high RPM or because it was a Ch**y? Either way it does not bode well for Ch**ys new inline six which is a high RPM engine.