I just bought my first ford an 1985 f150 4x4 . I really like the truck but, when I went to buy a cap and rotor for it I found out it has points! The distributer is located between 3-4 witch I think indacates it is an older motor.
I have found some numbers on the block on the drivers side. But i do not no what they mean. I am not even sure it is a 300 six.
Is there a web site that I can run the numbers through to find out what it is?
The truck is in perfect shape and I think I will have this for a while just need tokow what motor I have. thanks

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 18-Oct-01 AT 02:05 AM (EST)[/font][p]There is a web site that will tell you how to identify a lot of numbers for Ford. Unfortunately I forgot to bookmark it. How ever, under the passenger engine mount (I know, shuch a great place) there is a circle with a 1,3,5,7,9 inside and a dot or line outside pointed at the circle. If the block was made in "X4" (the "X" meaning 60,70,80 etc) the "dot" should be between the 3 and the 5. Next look for a casting number. If the first letter is a "C" it is "196X", if it is a "D" it is 197X, If it is a "E" it is "198X" and you fill in the "X" with the number you found in the circle. The casting number for the head is on the front, drivers side edge, just under a "lip" on an angle. You will need a mirror to read it, (or take the head off.) The circle with the year for the head is under the valve cover. A 240 Cu In 6 is an engine code "A" and the 300 is engine code "B" That should be found in the "VIN" number and on the door post. If it has points, just put Pertronix electronic points in it. They are about $70.00 and go where the points were. They work great. (it should be a 240 or 300 inch 6. They are the same except for the shape of the combustion chamber in the head and the crank.) Herman

 

i have a 1986 fi engine in my 77.I changed it over to carburator,and changed the ignition system over to points. kept burning the duraspark II modules and wanted to be able to trace a problem all the way thru if one occured. not to be stoped by the module. when ordering ignition parts(cap,rotor,wires,points) I order for a 74 300 W/standard ignition. the plugs i order for an 86 3oo because the are a bit hotter which works better for me but i gap them for the 74 as well as time it for the 74. I have also put the jacobs ignition in. It is basicaly an elec. ignition module that assembles in the distributor EXACTLY where the points are. I paid @ $100 for mine. I see that they now have come up with a new uptated version(more power), mallory also makes one (unilite). I like this because if anything were to go wrong with the module(jacobs) I can undo just two screws and put the points back in. I keep a set in the gbox.

 

Same with the Pertronix ignition. Only the Pertronix ignition only uses 1 screw. I also keep the points in the glove box, Pertronix also suggests you kep your points handy. I have had the Pertronix ignition in my '74 for about 10 years now. I just installed it in the '66 this last month when I rebuilt the engine. Herman

 

Thanks for the replies.
The only number I can find is a number on the drivers side rear almost under the oil filter and I think the number is 17OR I could be wrong, anyway it is close to those numbers. I will go back and see if I can't find anymore numbers.
I don't really mind having points . I havent had any problems with them yet.
Another question If this is an older (60s 70s ) engine, then should I take the cat. converter off of it? Their is'nt any smog test or anything where I live. Would it hurt the engine to leave it on? It misses pretty bad at idle but runs perfect when I step on the gas. thanks for the help

 

The Jacobs and Pertronix systems are really worth the small price. You have to keep up on those points to get max efficiency. If it misses at idle and not at higher RPM's those points would be the first place I would look. When everything is correct, that engine should idle at 500-600 RPM sith no vibration. A small vacuum leak will do it too. Herman