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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 03:34 PM
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Egr

New to the site. Need some information. My check engine lite came on in my 2000 Ranger. I've had the dealer change the EGR sensor twice now and I think it is bad again. I know it is under warranty, but he charges me $45.00 to change it. Is this an easy change, and can I do it myself? Thanks, Cracked Block
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 06:25 PM
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Welcome to FTE.

Bad EGR valves aren't a common failure part. So what makes you think they're all bad????

Do you have EGR computer trouble codes???? If so ,post ALL the trouble code numbers & any symptoms & we'll all try to give you a diagnosis.

In our EGR system, the DPFE sensor is the most common failure part, that sets EGR trouble codes.

Would be helpful to know which engne is in your ride, to better judge how difficult it is to replace the EGR valve, in case you do have another bad one.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 08:34 AM
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Woops, just reread your inital post & realized you said you've been replacing the "EGR Sensor", so now I think you mean the DPFE sensor, not the EGR valve itself.

Anyway post ALL the trouble codes & which engine you have & we'll try to offer up a diagnosis.

There is a good read on our EGR system's operation, in the "Technical Info" thread, located atop this forums thread listing page.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by cracked block
New to the site. Need some information. My check engine lite came on in my 2000 Ranger. I've had the dealer change the EGR sensor twice now and I think it is bad again. I know it is under warranty, but he charges me $45.00 to change it. Is this an easy change, and can I do it myself? Thanks, Cracked Block
How much is a new EGR valve? My guess is that if you buy it then you'd be out more than $45. and I'd be surprised if they would just hand over another new one for you to change for free.
Like pawpaw said though the DPFE sensor is the most common. On my B3000 when mine light came on I thought also from the codes that it was the EGR until reading on here about the DPFE and changed it myself. Solved the problem and was a easy change. I think at the time they were saying that the alum sensor was more of a problem than the plastic one. Mine was still the original old style one. I also got new vac. hoses and changed them while I was at it although it probably didn't need it. Actually cleaning the old rubber on the nipple was harder than changing the sensor.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 12:27 PM
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Went to Discount Auto yesterday and they read the codes. Said faulty EGR valve. Told them it was only 6 months old. They recommended I clean the existing one. They get 79.00 for a new one. Auto Zone lists one for 49.00. Needless to say, I cleaned the old one with throttlebody cleaner. It was really full of carbon. Disconnected the battery for 10 minutes and now everything is fine. Thanks for all your help, esp. pawpaw. Tim
 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by cracked block
Went to Discount Auto yesterday and they read the codes. Said faulty EGR valve. Told them it was only 6 months old. They recommended I clean the existing one. They get 79.00 for a new one. Auto Zone lists one for 49.00. Needless to say, I cleaned the old one with throttlebody cleaner. It was really full of carbon. Disconnected the battery for 10 minutes and now everything is fine. Thanks for all your help, esp. pawpaw. Tim
Ok good to hear cleaning the EGR valve has put things right.

NOW, you need to find out Why you have such heavy carbon deposits in the EGR valve.

This would point to your engine having other problems, like excessive oil consumption, from sticking or worn pistion rings or valve stem seals, or maybe a air/fuel ratio problem, or maybe a oil quality or viscosity peoblem.

Just some follow-up thoughts for pondering.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 06:15 PM
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pawpaw: Truck is a 2000 3.0 V6 w/101K. Oil & Filter changed every 3k. Castrol GTX 5W-30. Truck uses no oil. I think the carbon comes from CHEAP Gas. I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks again for your help. Tim
 
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