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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

starter wiring

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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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starter wiring

Hi guys
I have a 94 F150, with the 302. The small wire that connects to the starter with a spade connector is old and brittle, causing occasional starting problems. Never at a convenient place like home, but more like today at the landfill. Anyway, my question is where is the other end of that wire? It disappears into a harness, and I would like to replace it without undoing the whole harness. Any advice is appreciated.
Ray
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 03:39 PM
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Ford offers a service part for that, you can make up the same thing at the auto parts just as easy, cheaper too!

All ford gives ya is about a foot long pigtail with a connector on one end for the starter and a crimp connector to connect it to the existing wire once you cut it back.

Ford never should have made a starter connection like that, a post and nut type deal would be much better being as it does tend to get wet down there. That is a pain in the you know what all the time.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 03:42 PM
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the other and hooks on to the sylinoid beside thge batt it is bolted to the side oppisite of were the bat bolts on
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 05:34 PM
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Thanks guys for the advice. I cut the wire back a bit, spliced in a new section, and that took care of it. Wasn't at all difficult, I thought that wire disappeared into a harness, actually it was just that wire and the battery cable inside a wire loom. Problem solved. Now, anybody know anything about bathroom fans?

Ray
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 05:52 PM
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Glad to hear ya fixed it.

<i>Now, anybody know anything about bathroom fans?</i>

What's wrong with it?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 06:35 PM
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Smear lots of white lithium grease all over that starter solenoid spade and also the connector, ...............it will keep it from getting corroded again.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 10:52 PM
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whats up with tha bathroom fan.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 11:45 PM
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Prob not venting gasses lol
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 08:53 AM
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Okay, the bathroom fan...
it is located in the shower, protected by a GFCI. It intermittently trips the GFCI and turns off. The fan body is insulated in the attic, it is ducted to the outside, and I have double checked the electrical connections inside the fan body. I also used those wire nuts that have the silicone in them. Somehow, moisture is getting somewhere it shouldn't and tripping the GFCI. The only thing I have left to try is a silicone type of spray on the actual connector from the fan motor to the fan body. Any other ideas? It is driving me nuts.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 01:19 PM
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Replace the blower motor, sounds like it has a short in it.

Could also be a weak GFI but its more apt to be the motor in the blower.
Replacements are readily available from several places.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 02:53 PM
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Dan

Thanks for the reply..but I have already replaced the blower motor, the GFI, and the timer switch that controls how long the fan is on. It is a Nutone fan, and not one of the cheap ones, either.

Ray
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by nissen4
Dan

Thanks for the reply..but I have already replaced the blower motor, the GFI, and the timer switch that controls how long the fan is on. It is a Nutone fan, and not one of the cheap ones, either.

Ray
Well then I have to say you have a short in the wire between the GFI and the fan itself then. As you know the GFI monitors the power going out to a device and the power coming back to it, when its not the same it throws the GFI, hence a "ground fault". The motor is usually the cause but you replaced it so look at the wiring.

Someone in the attic snag the wire? Someone hang a picture or something on the wall and hit the wire with a nail.
Rodents chewing on the casing, many things can damage a wire.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 04:35 PM
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Oh one other thing, take the cover off your service panel and tighten every screw in it. Check that the screw holding the conductor is good and snug on each breaker and the neutral and ground bus bars.

A loose connection there, especially one on the ground bus could also create the problem you have.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 04:40 PM
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Also if you used the quick "stab" type connection (wire is simply striped and stuck in the hole) on the back of the devices, switches, outlets and timer when connecting the wires to them, move the wires to the screws provided.
 
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