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In that second pic, it's definately clear that moisture is in that oil. When the shop pulled the heads, did they examine the head gaskets? If they were leaking though, at least one of the pistons should show it.
At this point, I think I'd put some UV die in the coolant and have it pressure tested. Look for the die to be leaking out anywhere around the motor. It may be leaking externally and not be very visible. Also look for it in the oil.
I just can't figure out how you're losing that much coolant and it's not showing up anywhere.
I agree, losing this much coolant and it not being obvious is pretty whacked. The heads were pulled and the head gasket looks fine. They are replacing it just to be safe. All of the cylinders and pistons match almost exactly in color and cleanliness. I will post pics in a minute.
Here are a couple pics of the cylinders. The first and second are drivers side and passenger respectively. The others are random cylinders. I don't have pics of all eight cylinders. There is alot of oil, and in some of the pics the oil has been wiped out, but not very well, and not every pic.
Maybe it's just the lighting, but a couple of those pistons are shiny and look to be pretty free of any carbon. The one's I'm looking at are first pic, second cylinder from the left...I believe it's the #4 cylinder. The fourth picture I think is a closeup of that same cylinder. Also in the last picture, the bottom half of the piston looks pretty clean, but that oil is nasty!
It appears that the heads go pulled with the motor still in the truck...that's quite the feat. I almost think it would be easier to pull the heads with the motor out.
It might be easier with the motor pulled, but they are out none the less. It does look like that piston and maybe another might be the same way. If there is coolant going through the motor what might be some of the causes. The heads were pressure checked three times, if there is coolant in the oil, there isn't very much. Same with the oil in the coolant problem, if it is there it is not abundant. If the heads were pressure checked and tested ok wouldn't that rule out the injector cups or a cracked head? I know i need to pressure check the coolant system, I might find the answer whenI do that. But until then what else might it be?
Last edited by sloppyjoe; Dec 20, 2007 at 11:52 PM.
That doghouse is too gummed up to reuse. Since I'm now without my trusty F350, you're welcome to my good as new spare doghouse. If you want it just send your shipping info, and I'll send it UPS ground.
Does your CCV hose go up and over the brake cylinder? I just finished rerouting the CCV vent hose on my recently acquired CAT C7, and was told by a CAT tech to NEVER elevate the CCV hose because condensation WILL run back into the CC breather. Motor home owners with rear facing radiators typically reroute the OEM CCV hose to avoid getting the CC fumes sucked through the radiator and attracting dust, and the tech said he's seen several with clogged breathers where the CCV hose had been run up and over obstacles to exit at the side of the vehicle.
I really appreciate the offer and will get you my shipping info. Also, my CCV is vented up and over the master cylinder. The mechanic wants to put it back to stock, and I just want to move that hose down for proper ventilation. Thanks Again.
Do you know how they pressure tested the heads...what I'm getting at is wondering if the injector cups would be part of the pressure test. I'd say you're on hold until you get the system pressure tested. It could be a pinhole or two almost anywhere around the cylinder, gaskets, or in the heads.
Let the mechanic put the CCV back to stock if that's what he want's to do, then re-route it when you get it back.
I cannot believe that thing did not hydrolock. The oil is so uniform in all the cylinders. This is definately an example of were a Used Oil Annalysis would have determined right off the bat whether you are leaking coolant or not, before the tear down.
I am going to do just that with the CCV. I asked the guy at the machine shop if the pressure test would test the injector cups and he said it would. I know it is just some guy saying it would, but he is pretty respected for his work in the area so I tend to believe him. pullinair, what do you mean by "The oil is so uniform in all the cylinders"?
The entire top end was pulled, heads and all. The heads were pressure tested, a new gasket set was put on, and the mechanic put the CCV mod back to stock. It seems to be running ok, but I still have some white smoke that I notice when I am at an idle. The truck starts fine, and seems to be running fine. I am not sure if it is running the same, because I haven't had it for six weeks now. One thing that is different is when I get on the throttle hard, the truck seems to defuel. I am not sure if that is what it is but basically all the power just cuts out. It really cuts out when the chip is on (DP Tuner). If I am running in the 80 econo setting I have to drive really conservatively. If I get on it it will cut out really quickly. It gets pretty cold here, usually doesn't get above 30*. I am still trying to figure out if I am losing coolant because I have added 1 and 1/4 gallons of 50/50 mixed coolant since i got it back, 1-8-08. Any other ideas on the white smoke and also looking for help on the power cutout. Thanks
I added another gallon of coolant yesterday, total of two and a quarter gallons in four days... I also am getting quite a bit of smoke that doesn't smell sweet like coolant. I had the turbo out when they pulled the top end off and checked for play when I put the Wicked Wheel in. There wasn't any type of play in the shaft. I opened my oil fill cap and had light colored smoke coming out of it, with a white film buildup on the bottom of the cap, and inside the fill tube. Truck is losing coolant every time I drive it. i really need some help with this truck. Thanks
These pics are of the oil fill cap and the oil fill tube. The last one is of the coolant level since yesterday afternnon when i added the last bit of coolant.