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More Fuel leak Problems

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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 09:56 PM
  #1  
desert sled's Avatar
desert sled
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Exclamation More Fuel leak Problems

I though I fixed a fuel leak I had recently but it appears it is still there. I have a diesel leak that appears to be coming from on top of the engine and dripping down along the trans cover ultimately down the rear of the oil pan and exhaust pipe. I replaced two o-rings on top of the injector nearest the turbo(i think it was the 8th cylinder and it stopped that leak) now it look like the injector in front of the eight one has a leak. Can injectors leak this much or is it something else? Does anyone have a link to a schematic of the fuel system on a F-350 turbo IDI? Any help would be great,I need to stop this thing from leaking as soon as possible.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 01:34 AM
  #2  
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PLC7.3
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From: Manitoba
Unfortunately every time you fix just one you will cause another to leak.... disturbing any orings on the old lines/caps will make them leak.....

Best to just get a new set and replace them all......... ensure they know you want a TURBO set..... you may have to buy a couple special caps since the crossover is ahead of the turbo.

http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_73.htm

EDIT... I see they stock the TURBO kit now. I will PM you some info.
 

Last edited by PLC7.3; Nov 27, 2007 at 01:38 AM.
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 08:17 PM
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desert sled's Avatar
desert sled
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Sounds like a good idea. I`ll replace all of them this weekend. thanks for the response.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 10:18 PM
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you may also want to change the fuel return line i thought mine was my o rings and had all of them replace, turns out that it was old cracking fuel return line. its cheap to replace if you just get the fuel line and only get the clamps if you need some replaced
 
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 01:11 AM
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I think for as little as it costs, it's best to just bite the bullet and go with a return line kit as the caps can also distort over time.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 09:59 PM
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desert sled
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Thanks for the help. I will probably change the lines and o rings. thanks again.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 11:43 PM
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i had a bad leak on mine, like a drip a second....from the passenger front injector. i tried to fix it using used injector caps, lines and even injectors from a scrapped out donor pile i had access too-- they are not kidding about every time you touch one, it leaks somewhere else. i am waiting on the cap/hose and o-ring kit now...
if it was a gasser, i would have been driving a torch the last time i tried to take a spin.


oh, someone gave me the advise not to cross thread the steel line-- i managed to cross thread it on like the 13th time assembling it...
 
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 06:58 PM
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From: manson
Interesting thread....A few weeks ago I found a similar leak on the floor of my garage. Dave mentioned to check the valley pan of the engine for fuel...it was dry as was the injectors. I was baffled. Tonight I finally got around to letting it run and checking it out. I started it and let it idle in the driveway for about 20 minutes then backed it back in the garage and popped the hood. 5 of the 8 injectors were soaked. 3 worse than the others and the heads and pan were quite wet.

I'm not 100% positive where it is coming from ( general area...injectors...) ...is it the top caps/connections? The rubber lines between the injectors or the seat between the head and injector?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 05:47 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by michaelbrainardatwor
Interesting thread....A few weeks ago I found a similar leak on the floor of my garage. Dave mentioned to check the valley pan of the engine for fuel...it was dry as was the injectors. I was baffled. Tonight I finally got around to letting it run and checking it out. I started it and let it idle in the driveway for about 20 minutes then backed it back in the garage and popped the hood. 5 of the 8 injectors were soaked. 3 worse than the others and the heads and pan were quite wet.

I'm not 100% positive where it is coming from ( general area...injectors...) ...is it the top caps/connections? The rubber lines between the injectors or the seat between the head and injector?
well, i am not that far ahead of you, better than me could answer, but i will give it a shot.
the injectors have a steel line to feed them that screws on top. just below that is a plastic cap, with the return lines on them, they seal with an o-ring top and bottom, and by seal i mean ought to.... any movement or age seems to get them to leak. also, they are way more apt to 'suck' in air as leak, which causes the starting problems common to these. if you unscrew one of the steel lines, just pull up on the cap-- it will pop off and you can see the o-rings. look at about week old thread by me, tfrugal they pointed me out to the reseal kits...
i got mine in the mail, but have not got it on yet.
also, i really cool tip i got from here is to put a clear line in from the last cap to the fuel filter housing. it will show bubbles, a great diagnostic!! i just bought a 2 foot long chunk from a farm and fleet store, not reinforced or anything-- less than a buck.
oh, be very careful not to cross thread the steel line when you put it back on...
 
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 07:03 PM
  #10  
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Be careful not to kink the steel injector lines, as the are expensive. Not a big deal, just something to keep in mind.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 07:28 PM
  #11  
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From: manson
I got my new line and cap kit in the mail yesterday....installed this evening. Took about 90 minutes start to finish ( starting the truck ). It wasn't a bad job. I pulled the original caps off with the lines intact....left side and right side....then used the assembly to measure the hose lengths....assembled the new parts in left and right side assemblies and reinstalled. The old o rings were hard, dry and brittle. They were clearly shot.

Dumb me....LOL...bleading the fuel lines....lol....I got the bright idea to just jump the started solenoid with a wrench while bleeding the injector lines....I cranked 3-4 times before I realized I had to have the freaking key on to get fuel to the injectors. DUH. I was getting concerned ....

NOTE TO OTHERS....TURN KEY ON if you want fuel to flow.

Other than that, it went well.


as far as cross threading the threads....with one hand, support and align the steel tube and with the other hand, spin the nut. If the line is properly aligned with the injector, the nut should spin on easily by hand, all the way down. Then just snug down with a wrench. Don't start the nut with a wrench unless you want trouble!
 

Last edited by michaelbrainardatwor; Dec 6, 2007 at 07:31 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 08:13 AM
  #12  
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From: ocala
i have too put on a new return line kit and i still have leaks....on top of that i split one of the nuts to the injector...dang pot metal!(or i'm to strong for myself...ha, what is the TQ specs on the lines??)) replaced the line and now it looks rusted as heck! got it from ford so why did it rust so quick...do i need to coat it with something. is this bad?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 10:14 PM
  #13  
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michaelbrainardatwor
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From: manson
JOhjayjabroni....don't feel bad...I too STILL HAVE LEAKES...but the truck starts flawlessly now....I just noticed it this evening and haven't had a chance to chase it down yet.

Where could this be leaking, but not allowing air into the fuel system?

At the back of my engine, where the return lines from both rear cylinder injectors meet, there is a "T" ( Drivers side rear...near the glow plug relay) ....a third line appears to run down the back of the engine...does this go to the tank?
 

Last edited by michaelbrainardatwor; Dec 9, 2007 at 10:24 PM.
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