Do it yourselfer - Welder questions
#61
o.k.--I am ready to buy a garage mig welder to work on my trucks/tractors/snow plows and mostly truck gauge metals.
Give me a list and price of BEST BUYS under 600.00----MILLER/LINCOLN/HOBART-???/
I will go to a welder dealer to buy --most likely---or HOME DEPOT/LOWES if cheaper.
SO GIVE ME AN ANSWER!!!! I want a nice welder---and thanks for any replies!! Bill
As of now---I braze everthing----and need to get into the new millenium!!
Give me a list and price of BEST BUYS under 600.00----MILLER/LINCOLN/HOBART-???/
I will go to a welder dealer to buy --most likely---or HOME DEPOT/LOWES if cheaper.
SO GIVE ME AN ANSWER!!!! I want a nice welder---and thanks for any replies!! Bill
As of now---I braze everthing----and need to get into the new millenium!!
#62
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posts: 1,527
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Each of those three brands in the 140A output range are very similar in terms of quality and each have similar user controls and options. Hobart is least expensive, then Lincoln, then Miller. The miller auto set would be OK if you are working with new metal all the time and don't want to be bothered with finding the correct settings for yourself based on your own preferences for travel speed and penetration? Sites are provided below.
http://www.hobartwelders.com/product...ed/handler140/
http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...t.aspx?p=42419
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...c_140_autoset/
http://www.hobartwelders.com/product...ed/handler140/
http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...t.aspx?p=42419
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...c_140_autoset/
#63
#64
Originally Posted by WALFORD'S 56
Thanks Kusto---I want a reference to what to buy. I have been brazing and leading for 30 yrs and need to step up to mig welding. I want a welder for auto repair and nice welds on old sheetmetal with patch-panels etc/ thanks Bill
list for the 140 with cart is $844.. you can get it shipped free from this guy on ebay.. item number 140184403417 $667. $170 is a bit of change..
ready for gas tank..
I have the harbor freight 110v mig, the miller 175 mig and the miller 180sd tig and I gotta say I didn't know how easy it could be with a good welder.
Sam
#65
Bill,
Depends on if you have 220V outlet handy to where you'll be welding. I personally think Hobart brand gives the best bang for the buck. Made by Miller, uses standard sized consumables, can be upgraded to spool guns etc. Not quite as robust as their Miller brand but unless you are welding 8/5 for a living you'll never need to be concerned about the differences. If I were going to spend the money for a Miller or Lincoln, I'd spend it on a bigger Hobart machine instead. Hobart machines are available for the best prices from Northern Tool online with free shipping and no sales tax.
If all you have or you want the flexibility of only needing a commonly nearby 20A 115V outlet, I'd recommend the Hobart 140, the unit I have. If you will always have a 220V source handy then I'd go for the Hobart Handler 185 to give a little more flexibility to weld up to 5/16" steel. (the max thickness rating is actually pretty conservative, rating by full penetration in a single pass on a butt joint. You can actually successfully weld material significantly thicker if you grind the edges to a V groove of max thickness at the bottom and widening out to make a V as wide as the material is thick. You make a single full penetration weld at the bottom of the V then make as many more passes as necessary to fill the V while the previous bead is still hot. I have made forming stakes by welding 1/4" plate stock to 1" diameter rod with my "little" 140 that way.
Some like the stepless amp control on the more expensive machines, but I don't find the step control an issue since wire feed speed has more influence than the amperage setting on weld quality IMHO. Easy to test, just leve the amp setting alone and have someone vary the wire speed while you run some test beads.
Buy a good self darkening helmet. Spend a few extra dollars for one that has a control for max darkness setting. Mig does not need as dark a shield as TIG and it's easier to weld what you can see. I set mine for a max of 9. I also recommend building a steel topped welding bench to work at. It's really handy to be able to lay your work on or clamp your project to the bench to keep it aligned and just attach the ground clamp to the bench top out of the way rather than to the piece. I've also equiped my welding bench with an adjustable overhead spot light. I's also easier to see what you're welding if it is strongly lit so there is less contrast between the work area and the background. It's kinda like trying to see the detail on a wall in a dark room that has a small window with the sun shining directly in your eyes thru it compared to what you could see if you were to turn on a strong light in that same room.
Depends on if you have 220V outlet handy to where you'll be welding. I personally think Hobart brand gives the best bang for the buck. Made by Miller, uses standard sized consumables, can be upgraded to spool guns etc. Not quite as robust as their Miller brand but unless you are welding 8/5 for a living you'll never need to be concerned about the differences. If I were going to spend the money for a Miller or Lincoln, I'd spend it on a bigger Hobart machine instead. Hobart machines are available for the best prices from Northern Tool online with free shipping and no sales tax.
If all you have or you want the flexibility of only needing a commonly nearby 20A 115V outlet, I'd recommend the Hobart 140, the unit I have. If you will always have a 220V source handy then I'd go for the Hobart Handler 185 to give a little more flexibility to weld up to 5/16" steel. (the max thickness rating is actually pretty conservative, rating by full penetration in a single pass on a butt joint. You can actually successfully weld material significantly thicker if you grind the edges to a V groove of max thickness at the bottom and widening out to make a V as wide as the material is thick. You make a single full penetration weld at the bottom of the V then make as many more passes as necessary to fill the V while the previous bead is still hot. I have made forming stakes by welding 1/4" plate stock to 1" diameter rod with my "little" 140 that way.
Some like the stepless amp control on the more expensive machines, but I don't find the step control an issue since wire feed speed has more influence than the amperage setting on weld quality IMHO. Easy to test, just leve the amp setting alone and have someone vary the wire speed while you run some test beads.
Buy a good self darkening helmet. Spend a few extra dollars for one that has a control for max darkness setting. Mig does not need as dark a shield as TIG and it's easier to weld what you can see. I set mine for a max of 9. I also recommend building a steel topped welding bench to work at. It's really handy to be able to lay your work on or clamp your project to the bench to keep it aligned and just attach the ground clamp to the bench top out of the way rather than to the piece. I've also equiped my welding bench with an adjustable overhead spot light. I's also easier to see what you're welding if it is strongly lit so there is less contrast between the work area and the background. It's kinda like trying to see the detail on a wall in a dark room that has a small window with the sun shining directly in your eyes thru it compared to what you could see if you were to turn on a strong light in that same room.
Last edited by AXracer; 11-28-2007 at 11:44 PM.
#66
Originally Posted by AXracer
Bill,
Hobart machines are available for the best prices from Northern Tool online with free shipping and no sales tax.
If you will always have a 220V source handy then I'd go for the Hobart Handler 185 to give a little more flexibility to weld up to 5/16" steel.
Some like the stepless amp control on the more expensive machines, but I don't find the step control an issue since wire feed speed has more influence than the amperage setting on weld quality IMHO. Easy to test, just leve the amp setting alone and have someone vary the wire speed while you run some test beads.
Buy a good self darkening helmet. Spend a few extra dollars for one that has a control for max darkness setting.
Hobart machines are available for the best prices from Northern Tool online with free shipping and no sales tax.
If you will always have a 220V source handy then I'd go for the Hobart Handler 185 to give a little more flexibility to weld up to 5/16" steel.
Some like the stepless amp control on the more expensive machines, but I don't find the step control an issue since wire feed speed has more influence than the amperage setting on weld quality IMHO. Easy to test, just leve the amp setting alone and have someone vary the wire speed while you run some test beads.
Buy a good self darkening helmet. Spend a few extra dollars for one that has a control for max darkness setting.
As for the bench, getting ready to build one. A quick question - what's a good size for a bench? I was thinking 2' X 4', so I can mount my big vice on it, as well. Or should I go ahead and built a great big one, that I could use for all my metal pounding, etc? Room isn't an issue, and it's not much more money for bigger - is bigger better?
Thanks for you input, Ax!
R
#68
Yes, the 185 has been replaced by the Hobart 187 which looks like a real fine machine. Northern tool has some outstanding prices on the 140 (449.00!) and the 187 (639.00)
My bench is 30x36. I would suggest 30x48. If just for welding (no pounding) 1/8-1/4 thick steel is good (1/8" will need a framework support underneath to keep it flat).
If you are going to be pounding on it I'd suggest well supported 1/4" for light pounding to 1/2" for heavy work or where you might want to tack something to the table top. Let the top extend a couple inches beyond the support on the sides and front for ease of clamping and attaching the ground lead. Don't use wood for the under support. I added a 3" high backstop and sides 12" forwards of the backstop to keep spatter contained. I added a holster for my welding pliers on the side furthest from the welder.
I also made a rack for clanps, magnets and welding vise grips that hangs on the wall above the bench. A shelf under the bench stores my tip dip, extra tips, gloves. I also installed utility hooks on the wall next to the bench where I hang my helmets.
Other handy accessories: a carpenters aluminum triangular speed square, a tape measure, plenty of fine tip sharpies and pencils, an assortment of files. Nearby to save walking: chop saw, bench grinder, large bench vise and plenty of outlets for angle grinders, drills. I keep my power hand tools and their accessories on a metal mesh roll around cart I bought at Sam's club for 50.00 (meant for commercial kitchen use) and just roll it up next to the welding bench. My body tools are on the second and third shelves. If you don't have someplace to lay the tools while working, the welding bench will soon become a tool bench!
My bench is 30x36. I would suggest 30x48. If just for welding (no pounding) 1/8-1/4 thick steel is good (1/8" will need a framework support underneath to keep it flat).
If you are going to be pounding on it I'd suggest well supported 1/4" for light pounding to 1/2" for heavy work or where you might want to tack something to the table top. Let the top extend a couple inches beyond the support on the sides and front for ease of clamping and attaching the ground lead. Don't use wood for the under support. I added a 3" high backstop and sides 12" forwards of the backstop to keep spatter contained. I added a holster for my welding pliers on the side furthest from the welder.
I also made a rack for clanps, magnets and welding vise grips that hangs on the wall above the bench. A shelf under the bench stores my tip dip, extra tips, gloves. I also installed utility hooks on the wall next to the bench where I hang my helmets.
Other handy accessories: a carpenters aluminum triangular speed square, a tape measure, plenty of fine tip sharpies and pencils, an assortment of files. Nearby to save walking: chop saw, bench grinder, large bench vise and plenty of outlets for angle grinders, drills. I keep my power hand tools and their accessories on a metal mesh roll around cart I bought at Sam's club for 50.00 (meant for commercial kitchen use) and just roll it up next to the welding bench. My body tools are on the second and third shelves. If you don't have someplace to lay the tools while working, the welding bench will soon become a tool bench!
Last edited by AXracer; 11-29-2007 at 09:49 AM.
#69
ALERT! I just got an email notice from NT that you can receive an electronic gift card worth 50.00 on purchase over 250.00 and 100.00 on orders over 500.00!
To receive the gift card put code 105201 in the keycode field on the address verification page of your online order. Gift card will be emailed within 48hrs. Use the gift card towards your self darkening helmet! What a DEAL!
To receive the gift card put code 105201 in the keycode field on the address verification page of your online order. Gift card will be emailed within 48hrs. Use the gift card towards your self darkening helmet! What a DEAL!
#71
#73
I guess y'all have never bought anything online from NT, I get 2-3 offers a week from them. I just got 20% off on a 169.00 purchase online because I paid for it thru paypal.
My spam filter stops most all the ads for enhancement aids, stock tips and dating services. But then again that may not be a good thing, if I followed the stock tips I might be able to afford the dating services and then might need the enhancement products, or a good divorce attorney...
My spam filter stops most all the ads for enhancement aids, stock tips and dating services. But then again that may not be a good thing, if I followed the stock tips I might be able to afford the dating services and then might need the enhancement products, or a good divorce attorney...
#74
I get the ads from NT, just not the coupons. I haven't bought anything online, just over the phone. I don't buy that much, but probably should go online next time.
As for the spam, I get about 300 of them a day in my spam filtered box, but 20 - 30 get through. Comes and goes. Comes with having my own domain, everything (mostly) comes to me, no matter what name. It's better - one time I was receiving over 1000 a minute! Got that fixed, though, rather quickly...
R
As for the spam, I get about 300 of them a day in my spam filtered box, but 20 - 30 get through. Comes and goes. Comes with having my own domain, everything (mostly) comes to me, no matter what name. It's better - one time I was receiving over 1000 a minute! Got that fixed, though, rather quickly...
R
#75