what do you mean by "bypass filter"

 

A bypass filter is a filter with extremely small pores that is designed to take a relatively small amount of flow and filter it very thoroughly. Most automotive filters are 'full-flow' filters that take the entire output of the oil pump and filter it before it goes to the engine distribution. Due to the flow requirements, they cannot have much restriction, as it would starve the engine of oil, especially when it is cold and thick. A bypass filter takes a small amount of oil flow, filters it much more thoroughly than a full-flow filter, and then returns it to the crankcase. The old Frantz toilet paper filters are bypass filters. The Luber-finer system on commercial engines is another.

 

If you really what to know who is using what just request a MSDS from the retailer on their oil. It will tell who made it and packaged it.

Syn can last almost for ever if the contaminations are removed and no dilutions. But you must use oil analysis to determine what condition it's in. I use to run 25000mi on a annual oil change with filter changed in between, and the use of a by-pass filer.

A by-pass filter is an external filtration system that's takes a small amount of oil, normally tapped off the oil sending unit and run it through a very fine 1-3 micron filter. The filtered oil is returned to the pan.

In europe most all oil is now syn. Mainly due to mfg are required to recycle/dispose of there products. So with syn greatly reduce the amount of oil they have to handle.

Far as I'm concern we all should be running extended length oil changes. Since most oils do not go bad, it the contamination in the oil that causes the problem. Upgrade the filtration systems and go. But 90% of engine wear comes form the intake. As long as your air filter will allow fine particulants, you get wear. Then it ends up into the oil. I guess we need to recycle our used oil in to our oil bath air filters.

my $0.02

 

I run my used oil through coffee fllters.. then dump that out... then make coffee with it

The coffee just seems to slide down easier.

 

So that's how come my coffee had an oil slick on it

 

Still seems stupid to me. At 10k miles that oil has to be blacker than a man in Africa on a Saturday night and if it's that black, who knows what could happen.

 

75F350 ... is very correct on oils lasting longer than most give it credit for. The fact is is that most oil is changed to remove particulants in the oil that then filter has not removed.

I have ran an oil (syn) over 50k mi using oil analysis every 10k miles. I had a by-pass filtration system and change the regular oil filter every 5k mi. The oil was still usable when I change it. The color of the oil has nothing to do with the condition of the oil. With a by-pass filtration filtering in the 1-2 micron range, will remove a lot of the blackness in the oil.

 

I use the Franz bi-pass filter system with synthetic oil and after 150k on a rebuilt 460, I still have great oil pressure, good compression and a clean crankcase. Im thinkin' the engine will outlast me.

 

See http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html for a in depth report that's well worth reading before making a decision on filters. I posted this on the filter forum also. Joe

 

How does this connect? Have any pictures?

Jason

 

I *think* any of the oil made today is better than the best oil made 10 years ago. Any oil that meets your vehicle specification will be fine. I have over 80,000 miles on my Jeep and the only oil it has had is Super Tech from wally world or NAPA oil when I forgot to buy wally oil when in town(over 100 miles to the nearest wal mart).

Everyone here seems to bash Fram oil filters, but I doubt any can tell a personal experiance of dammage caused by one. All of the bad I have seen starts out with "my friend" or "my uncle" ect. I think there are better filters out there than Fram, but I don't believe they are the "orange can of death". I think that NAPA (Wix) filters are a better filter for the same or less money, and the wally world Super Tech filters are even better if you are using price in the over all picture.

There is my $.02 worth that you couldn't even sell on ebay.

 

My wifes drives a '95 Nissan car back & forth to work, we bought it w/28k in '96 or so. I use only WIX filters & store brand oil, changing every 3-4k. It now has over 215,000 miles, runs fine, does not leak oil( I replaced the valve cover gasket @150k) or burn oil & still gets 30mpg.

 

Where do yo get the oil analysis done?

 

Inlet (pressure side) is from a "T" at the oil press sending unit and in my case it goes back (after the filter) into the crankcase threw a front dip-stick-tube hole. If you do install one do not use the tubing they supply, get the good stuff.

Franz has a kit to get the return into the oil pan.

 

This is interesting...and I thought I was a dork...