Slow turn signals
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New User
Joined: Nov 2007
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Slow turn signals
I recently finished refurbishing my '67 F100. Everything is fine except while idleing the turn signals just stay steady lit. If you increase rpm's they will start to function properly. I have replaced wiring from the cab back, both bulbs, and cleaned sockets.
I replaced the flasher on the fuse panel, but I've read on this forum that there may be another one under the dash. Could this be the culprit? I'm fed up with chasing this problem and about to rewire the whole truck to try and cure it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I replaced the flasher on the fuse panel, but I've read on this forum that there may be another one under the dash. Could this be the culprit? I'm fed up with chasing this problem and about to rewire the whole truck to try and cure it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Hey welcome to the forum.
I have a 68 CS that was doing about the same thing until I cleaned
all socket contacts and lamps then lightly coated the contacts
with KOPR-SHIELD a conductive anti-corrosion compound.
I also changed the blinker to a #536 (heavy duty?) which allows
for a normal blink rate even at idle, a little slower with motor off.
On the back the 1157's I replaced with 2057 lamps allowing for
no more element failures from the stiff suspension.
You have clean contacts in the turn signal switch and the connector
on the lower steering column?
I use this conductive material on every electrical fitting I can find
including all battery cable connections.
This is made by Thomas & Betts avilable at a good electrical
supply house, pt#CP8-TB.
I have a 68 CS that was doing about the same thing until I cleaned
all socket contacts and lamps then lightly coated the contacts
with KOPR-SHIELD a conductive anti-corrosion compound.
I also changed the blinker to a #536 (heavy duty?) which allows
for a normal blink rate even at idle, a little slower with motor off.
On the back the 1157's I replaced with 2057 lamps allowing for
no more element failures from the stiff suspension.
You have clean contacts in the turn signal switch and the connector
on the lower steering column?
I use this conductive material on every electrical fitting I can find
including all battery cable connections.
This is made by Thomas & Betts avilable at a good electrical
supply house, pt#CP8-TB.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 18
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Thanks Beemer Nut, I haven't checked the connections at the colum and inside the steering wheel yet, I'll give that a shot before I rewire the whole truck though. I'll also give the cleaning another try too. Everything went back together on the whole project so good that its just a little thing like this that's aggrivating.
This truck has been in the family since new in '67, I learned to drive in it, I've put it back original and I'm just trying to get it right.
This truck has been in the family since new in '67, I learned to drive in it, I've put it back original and I'm just trying to get it right.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
capt775,
I'll bet your headlights are a bit dim when your flashers go slow?? I suggest that before you tackle the turn signal switch, check the connections (1 or 2 wires) on the battery cable side of your starter solenoid on the inner fender. The fattest wire, other than he battery cable, supplies power to your whole electrical system. If the connection or the wire itself is questionable everything will receive less than it should and create heat which compounds the problem. Are you using halogen headlights? If you are and not powering them through a simple relay system, you will be overtaxing your whole headlight and electrical system. If you want to know how to do the relays let me know and I will find a link to some instructions. It's real easy and can be don in a couple of hours. I hope this helps.
Gene
I'll bet your headlights are a bit dim when your flashers go slow?? I suggest that before you tackle the turn signal switch, check the connections (1 or 2 wires) on the battery cable side of your starter solenoid on the inner fender. The fattest wire, other than he battery cable, supplies power to your whole electrical system. If the connection or the wire itself is questionable everything will receive less than it should and create heat which compounds the problem. Are you using halogen headlights? If you are and not powering them through a simple relay system, you will be overtaxing your whole headlight and electrical system. If you want to know how to do the relays let me know and I will find a link to some instructions. It's real easy and can be don in a couple of hours. I hope this helps.
Gene
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Does "If you increase rpm's they will start to function properly." provide a clue?
The same corrosion issue may still be there or the alt. may not be getting the power out. Check battery and other cables for corrosion that can reduce current flow.
Some of the parts houses can test output for you.
John
The same corrosion issue may still be there or the alt. may not be getting the power out. Check battery and other cables for corrosion that can reduce current flow.
Some of the parts houses can test output for you.
John
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
There are two flashers behind the dash cluster. The one for the 4 way flashers is (supposed to be) the heavy duty type (Motorcraft SF-552-B).
The turn signal flashers came two ways: standard (Motorcraft SF-224) or optional heavy duty. The same heavy duty flasher can be used for both the 4 way flashers & turn signals.
The turn signal flashers came two ways: standard (Motorcraft SF-224) or optional heavy duty. The same heavy duty flasher can be used for both the 4 way flashers & turn signals.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Nov 25, 2007 at 05:38 AM.
"Mifflin Clay"
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,177
Likes: 4
From: Mifflin, PA
No one has mentioned battery voltage - have you checked it at the battery and at the flasher both at idle and elevated rpms???
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New User
Joined: Nov 2007
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whew, ok guys, now this is the kinda help I was looking for. I'm pretty good with engines, trans, and fabrication, but my auto electrical edumacation is a weakness that I never addressed learning to build cars. I guess your never to old to learn. Ya'll given me alot to check.
Gene, yes I would like to know more about the relay system. I'm building a '52 Chevy truck now also and it has been suggested that I use relays to power the head lights and AC and such to keep load off of the new wiring harness. I never thought about the Halogen lights drawing more voltage either. I'm gonna start from scratch on all connections and it is time for a new "hot" battery. Alt is new and should be ok. One of ya'lls suggestions is bound to be my problem and are greatly appreciated.
Well, back out to the shop.
Thanks again to all,
Mike
Gene, yes I would like to know more about the relay system. I'm building a '52 Chevy truck now also and it has been suggested that I use relays to power the head lights and AC and such to keep load off of the new wiring harness. I never thought about the Halogen lights drawing more voltage either. I'm gonna start from scratch on all connections and it is time for a new "hot" battery. Alt is new and should be ok. One of ya'lls suggestions is bound to be my problem and are greatly appreciated.
Well, back out to the shop.
Thanks again to all,
Mike
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,838
Likes: 261
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
Another thing that I have run across is the contact on the light bulbs get squashed. You can tell by looking at them. They should be rounded. If this is the case you are not going to get a good contact. Either replace the bulbs or re-solder the bulbs contacts.
I had the same problems and found the problem to be a combination of things. Oxidation on the wires connected to the solonoid, and the bad contacts at the bulbs. And don't over look the ground wires at each socket to chassie.
I had the same problems and found the problem to be a combination of things. Oxidation on the wires connected to the solonoid, and the bad contacts at the bulbs. And don't over look the ground wires at each socket to chassie.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
capt775,
I haven't got time to search more for the link, but when I'm done with my shift I'll get back to you tonight and explain the process. REAL EASY. Also, don't forget to check the ground wire/strap from the firewall to the back of your passenger side head. Very important!!
Gene
I haven't got time to search more for the link, but when I'm done with my shift I'll get back to you tonight and explain the process. REAL EASY. Also, don't forget to check the ground wire/strap from the firewall to the back of your passenger side head. Very important!!
Gene
Last edited by 68horses; Nov 25, 2007 at 12:08 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Owning a good quality meter like a Fluke be it their lower end price wise will make trouble shooting less frustrating.You will be surprised how a little resistance here and there will add up causing problems. Just cleaning and adding conductive anti-corrosion material to all contacts you will get noticable different resistance readings including all battery leads as I replied before.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Here is an FTE article on the headlight relay project. It is a good article and very worthwhile doing, especially with older wiring. And you get maximum headlight brightness too.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...ay_System.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...ay_System.html
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,622
Likes: 0
From: nevada
You have a lot of things to check out. someone told me a long time ago, that the HD flashers were better if you towed a trailer. Something about blink rate, (more bulbs to power up). I did replace my brake/turn bulbs with the LED's, and just doing that speeded up the blink rate. Sounds like you have a low voltage/bad wire/connection prob tho.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,838
Likes: 261
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
For trailer lights I use a transistor switch so it does not load the original wiring. That way I have my trailer on a seperate fuse. So if you have a short in the trailer you do not knock out your main lights. This was in Popular Mechanics in the late 70's. It addressed the small gage wiring used by ford and others.
Look for any splices and clean them up. The only thing that works is to solder the connection if exposed to the elements
Look for any splices and clean them up. The only thing that works is to solder the connection if exposed to the elements