Rear Rotor Removal Help
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 3
From: Joliet, Illinois
Tighten to 60 lb/ft.
- For new bearings, ratchet back five teeth or notches (1/8 turn) on the hub nut. Five notches must be felt during this operation in order to have performed it correctly.
- For used bearings, ratchet back seven teeth or notches (1/6 turn) on the hub nut. Seven notches must be felt during this operation to have performed it correctly.
Interesting there are no lock washers on them.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 3
From: Joliet, Illinois
I have looked around and it took a while but I finally found it all.
1. A new axle nut is required if the ratchet ring has become detached from the nut.
2. Tighten the axle nut to 55#-65# while rotating hub at the same time.
3a. If reusing OLD bearings - back off nut 7 to 8 audible clicks.
3b. If installing NEW bearings - back off nut 5 audible clicks.
4. Axle shaft retaining bolts 60 to 80 Ft-lbs.
They also suggest 271 (RED) loctite on the axle threads.
1. A new axle nut is required if the ratchet ring has become detached from the nut.
2. Tighten the axle nut to 55#-65# while rotating hub at the same time.
3a. If reusing OLD bearings - back off nut 7 to 8 audible clicks.
3b. If installing NEW bearings - back off nut 5 audible clicks.
4. Axle shaft retaining bolts 60 to 80 Ft-lbs.
They also suggest 271 (RED) loctite on the axle threads.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 780
Likes: 0
From: merrimack valley
OK guys, back with another update....
Monday was rainy and I didn't want to have to lay on the ground and get soaked so I put it off until today. I went back out and loosened the adjuster at the bottom of the parking brake for maximum slack. I was then able to get the hub/rotor off after turning and wacking it several times, but the inner seal was ripped apart in the process. This rotor had indeed "rust welded" itself to the hub. I had to place the rotor on the ground, put a 2X8 on top of the hub and give it several hard hits with an eight pound sledge hammer in order to seperate the rotor from the hub. The board split in the process.
Well.... on to the right side. First thing was to again loosen the adjuster for maximum slack. I pulled the axle which allowed the hub to turn freely and tried wacking it as I turned it. Success at last!! This one came free without having to pull the hub. I will end up doing it anyhow so I can clean and inspect the bearings and since I have new seals I'll install them.
I did remove the parking brakes from the left side(inspection of right side to follow later) and found a fair amount of rust on the dust shield, enough that I would like to replace it now. I called the dealer and guess what? You can't get just the stamped out tin, you have to get the adaptor plate too for $212 per side. I'll have to see if I can find anywhere that has just the dust shield. If anyone has any ideas on that please let me know. It seems like a deliberate plan to extract the working man's money from his pocket by making him have to buy the whole assembly when the cast part should be good for the life of the vehicle while the stamped sheetmetal piece just isn't going to hold up that long.
Tomorrow I'll pull the right hub and do the clean and inspect. By then I hope to have something on replacement dust shields. Then it's on the the front to service those hubs....
If anyone has any ideas on how to prevent this problem of the rotor locking to the hub I'm open to suggestions. This was a very frustrating situation that I'd rather not have to go through again. Thanks in advance for any input.
Monday was rainy and I didn't want to have to lay on the ground and get soaked so I put it off until today. I went back out and loosened the adjuster at the bottom of the parking brake for maximum slack. I was then able to get the hub/rotor off after turning and wacking it several times, but the inner seal was ripped apart in the process. This rotor had indeed "rust welded" itself to the hub. I had to place the rotor on the ground, put a 2X8 on top of the hub and give it several hard hits with an eight pound sledge hammer in order to seperate the rotor from the hub. The board split in the process.
Well.... on to the right side. First thing was to again loosen the adjuster for maximum slack. I pulled the axle which allowed the hub to turn freely and tried wacking it as I turned it. Success at last!! This one came free without having to pull the hub. I will end up doing it anyhow so I can clean and inspect the bearings and since I have new seals I'll install them.
I did remove the parking brakes from the left side(inspection of right side to follow later) and found a fair amount of rust on the dust shield, enough that I would like to replace it now. I called the dealer and guess what? You can't get just the stamped out tin, you have to get the adaptor plate too for $212 per side. I'll have to see if I can find anywhere that has just the dust shield. If anyone has any ideas on that please let me know. It seems like a deliberate plan to extract the working man's money from his pocket by making him have to buy the whole assembly when the cast part should be good for the life of the vehicle while the stamped sheetmetal piece just isn't going to hold up that long.
Tomorrow I'll pull the right hub and do the clean and inspect. By then I hope to have something on replacement dust shields. Then it's on the the front to service those hubs....
If anyone has any ideas on how to prevent this problem of the rotor locking to the hub I'm open to suggestions. This was a very frustrating situation that I'd rather not have to go through again. Thanks in advance for any input.
because i know my e-brake hold down pins pulled thru
pins still look new but holes rusted
:
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 3
From: Joliet, Illinois
The first time I pulled the front discs off my Elantra GT, I had to use a drill and make a series of holes and an air hammer (a former muffler removal tool) to sever one of the rotors in half just to get it off!
I was upgrading them with better rotors anyway!
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Omaha
Used the post and finnaly got the drivers side off. Checking the e-brake and had 1 pad come off the shoe. I've heard of it happening while on the road and was told to just remove them so I did on the one side anyway. Automatic so don't really need them anyway. Just something to watch out for.
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