Rebuilding a ZF
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Joined: Nov 2005
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Rebuilding a ZF
I put this post in the drivetrain forum but it got no action so here it is:
I'd like to rebuild the 5 speed in my '96 F350 (grinds going into 2nd and 3rd) I found a rebuild kit with all the bearings, seals, and syncros for $300. Before I go tearing into it, I'd like to know if it is going to require special tools or if there are any tricks to making the process easier.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
I'd like to rebuild the 5 speed in my '96 F350 (grinds going into 2nd and 3rd) I found a rebuild kit with all the bearings, seals, and syncros for $300. Before I go tearing into it, I'd like to know if it is going to require special tools or if there are any tricks to making the process easier.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,412
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From: Munroe falls, Ohio
87-95 ZFs
96 & up ZFs
ZF parts booklet
I've seen rotunda kits on ebay that are for the ZF
rotonda kit
96 & up ZFs
ZF parts booklet
I've seen rotunda kits on ebay that are for the ZF
rotonda kit
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
Likes: 13
From: New Jersey
Here's the explosion diagram:
http://www.drivetrain.com/transills542.html
There apparently is a rotunda tool kit for these but I didn't have one nor did I find it necessary. Using common hand tools this job wasn't bad at all.
One tip I can offer you is during reassembly, have some really long wire ties handy so you can tie the shafts/gears together when trying to slide them back into the case. If you have four hands available this isn't necessary.
Another tip - I cannot stress this enough - always measure the input shaft's tip diameter where the pilot bearing sits - and compare it to the diameter just before the splines start. If there is any noticable wear, replace the input shaft now while you have it apart. The reason why this is "critical" is if there is any slop between the pilot bearing and the input shaft once you reinstall, the main input shaft bearing will be toast fairly quickly, which in turn allows things behind it to mesh loosely or too tightly and chews up your tranny fairly quickly.
While this isn't a bad job to do yourself, it's not one you want to do twice in the same year
http://www.drivetrain.com/transills542.html
There apparently is a rotunda tool kit for these but I didn't have one nor did I find it necessary. Using common hand tools this job wasn't bad at all.
One tip I can offer you is during reassembly, have some really long wire ties handy so you can tie the shafts/gears together when trying to slide them back into the case. If you have four hands available this isn't necessary.
Another tip - I cannot stress this enough - always measure the input shaft's tip diameter where the pilot bearing sits - and compare it to the diameter just before the splines start. If there is any noticable wear, replace the input shaft now while you have it apart. The reason why this is "critical" is if there is any slop between the pilot bearing and the input shaft once you reinstall, the main input shaft bearing will be toast fairly quickly, which in turn allows things behind it to mesh loosely or too tightly and chews up your tranny fairly quickly.
While this isn't a bad job to do yourself, it's not one you want to do twice in the same year
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