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I have an '84 F150, 351 with a 4bbl Holley carb. As far as I know, everything is from the factory. Here's the issue. It has always been difficult to start after sitting for more than 3-4 days. This week, the starter relay went out (mounted on the passenger fender near battery) and I just replaced it this morning. So, I anticipated a difficult start. I was right. I cannot get it started at all. I was told the fuel pump (mounted below power steering pump) was replaced not long before it was given to me. I bought the usual tune-up stuff when I brought it home (fuel filter, distributer cap, rotor button, etc.) anticipating replacing it all anyway. Well, the fuel filter that I got was a screw-in type, about 1-1/2" long with a threaded end for the line to come into. The problem is that this is not what I have on my carb. The picture below shows the line going into the carb (1) and the fuel filter that was in line on this thing (2). I found out today that the fuel filter is actually for a lawn mower. I don't know who put it on or why or what I need to do about this. I replaced the filter with another lawn mower type (clear plastic, see-thru type), but it is almost dry even after trying to start. It is like it isn't getting any fuel at all, so I am thinking the fuel pump may be bad after all as it may have been sitting for a while.
So, what should I do about this mess? Obviously this isn't the best fuel filter option, so what kind of fuel filter should I be looking for and where does it mount? Also, would I be better off looking at an electric fuel pump? Do they make one that doesn't mount in the tank that I could install?
Also, the air conditioner is not working and, frankly, I don't want it anyway. Can I remove the compressor and lines without a lot of trouble? What about the big 'ol honkin' bracket the thing is mounted to? As best I can tell, the solenoid is mounted on this as well, but I am sure I could make a mount for it to get the big one out of my waty.
Finally, the smog pump is not hooked up at all. No belt, nothing. However, all vacuum lines are still on there as are the hoses, etc. Can I get rid of this? I am trying to make this as "clean" and simple as possible. I would like a basic carb setup without putting all the vacuum lines back. Well, with as few as possible anyway. What is the best way to do all of this?
BTW - Yes, I know the carb looks like crap. I am planning on having it rebuilt when I get a little money. That or replacing it are my only options. I don't feel comfortable rebuilding it myself, but I found an "old school" Ford mechanic who said he would "love" to do it for me. I think he misses the old days!
That carb needs to be cleaned up NOW! that may be your whole problem. That is a good holley carb, and VERY simple to rebuild yourself. Go to the auto parts store and get a holley "4160" rebuild kit for about $25, 2 cans of carb cleaner and put those little red tubes on each can. Take the 4 screws out of both ends of the carb and then pull the flat "metering blocks" off the carb. You CAN do this yourself if you have any kind of mechanical inclination at all. You will not use hardly any parts from that rebuild kit, mostly the gaskets and power valve and the Instructions which will help you greatly understand the wonderful Holley carb. While at the auto parts store, get a "metal" 5/16" fram fuel filter for $3.99 and install that where the cheap plastic one is, and maybe some new fuel hose, and a little box of those rubber plugs/caps to plug/cap any of the vacume lines on the carb that might be leaking air. You cannot have any air leaks around the carb or from any of the rubber hoses, that will make it hard to start and run rough. Don't worry about there not being much fuel in the fuel filter for now, very often they will look like they are empty, even when running, but there is enough fuel going through to run the motor. I know it looks and sounds strange, but sometimes you get air in there and it just does not want to come out, but the engine should run o.k. I've seen these things almost empty and the engine will fun just fine, there is enough of a trickle running through it to keep the carb well fed. I'm not saying that you don't have a fuel pump problem, just that the carb needs to be addressed FIRST. You can remove the fuel line from the carb and turn over the motor, fuel should squirt out quite quickly if the pump is good. If it just trickles out then the pump is bad. Yes you can remove the air pump, air conditioning compressor and all the associated hoses and parts, just make sure that you do not create a vacume leak to the carbuerator. And for God's sake, blow all the pine needles off of the engine before you pull the carb off. It really is simple once you start doing it, just remember not to overtighten any bolts, loose bolts can always be retightened, broken bolts are broken forever.
Thanks for the advice. Yes, I am pretty mechanicly inclined, just never tackled a carb before. I will give the pump a check to see if anythign is coming out. Funny thing is it ran fine last week, before the relay went out. What changed, I don't know, but it won't stay running without starter fluid and the filter looked bone dry when I was trying to get it up and running.
This picture is from when I first brought it home. It isn't nearly that bad now. I cleaned the carb up some, but not a thorough cleaning and rebuild. It was given to me by my MIL who had no use for it since her husband passed away in 2004. It sat for 2 years before anyone ever did anything to it.
When I was messing around I could have pulled a vacuum line off and that may be what is causing all of this. I don't know. I will have to take a close look at it to see if I did. I didn't notice any today, but it could have happened.
Anyway, thanks for the help and I will try to tackle this one myself before seeking professional help!
That looks like the original Ford/Holley carb. This carb is related to the other holleys, but has some differences too. If you want to clean the engine compartment up, you could buy yourself a new holley carb of the universal variety, and you could also eliminate most of those vacuum lines too.
If those are the one priced around $500, I wouldn't be able to swing that just yet. This is a beat-around truck, so I can't really sink that much for a new carb just yet. Really, the thing that threw me was the filter. I couldn't figure out how the one the parts place gave me would fit in the only place the line could come in. Of course, it wouldn't and when I figured out it was a lawn mower filter, I was really stumped.
Like I said, I really think there must be a vacuum line off somewhere as I can't figure out why it isn't getting any gas at all, unless the pump is bad. I will test it and check the vacuum lines and see what is going on.
One thing I did notice today: I replaced the heater hose visible just to the right of the first "0" in 2007 in the picture. The nipple the hose attaches to was pretty corroded on the end, but not enough it would need replacing. I noticed there are a lot of vacuum lines around it, so I am wondering if one got pulled off and I missed it? Do those go back to the smog pump or are the controlled by another vacuum component?
You should be a able to get a brand new holley to fit for about $235 + or -, depending if you want a manual choke or auto choke. You also should get the Holley made for Fords with the kickdown linkage, so that might a just a little more. Check jegs and summit racing.
Try plugging every one of the vacume hoses to the carb, except the one that goes to the distributor (vacume advance), it might run a lot better, most of the other hoses are for smog equipment. And again, it's easy to check the fuel pump, just disconnect at the carb and turn the motor over or start the engine, point the fuel line into a gas can or large cup and see if it squirts out, if it does squirt out your fuel pump is not the problem.
Thanks guys! For a "free" truck, this thing is starting to cost me more and more! But, I can't complain about her.
I plan on working on the old girl this weekend when I have some time. I am concerned that there may be something in the tank causing these problems. When I pulled the old filter off, it was caked with a brown gunk that looked like dirt. I literally tapped a bunch out of the filter and that could have caused the pump to fail as well. If so, then I am looking at a new pump, but also draining the tank and cleaning it out, which would be a royal PITA right now, as she has about 15 gallons in it! (Of course, I had filled it up not long before she crapped out on me!)
Anyway, what would be the possibility of putting a filter in the line BEFORE the pump? I would love to have one that would catch this crap before it got to the pump, but I don't know if this would work. My thinking is that if I could get an in-line filter on her, then I could at least get it running and run some of the gas out before draining it to clean it out without ruining another fuel pump. So, if I were to put a filter in the line before the pump, where would that go?
Also, this truck has 2 tanks on it, but the rear tank is not hooked up because some jerk poured tar in it while the previous owner was hunting many moons ago. Luckily, they didn't notice the front tank or he would have been screwed. He came out of the woods and noticed the tank door open and saw the tar on the spout and the cap laying on the ground. He switched tanks and drove her home for further inspection. Instead of replacing the tank, he disconnected the lines, drained the tank and just left it sitting in there.
If there is gunk in the front tank, I could replace the rear tank and hook all of that back up to get it running, but it still would not solve the front tank issue. I had planned on getting the rear tank replaced at some point anyway, but all of the lines have been disconnected and that would be a pain to hook back up right now.